300 c.i.d. 6cyl
#1
300 c.i.d. 6cyl
Category: Engine - Complete Motors
Price: $1500
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Item Condition: VA
Engine: Part suitable for gas truck
Rebuilt in 1996 with premium kit rebuild by Engine Warehouse in Atlanta area. Engine has approximately 5000 miles since rebuild. As of May 2011, engine also has new starter, Offenhauser Dual Plane 4bbl manifold with new Holley 390cfm carb and a new Headman dual outlet header. Engine is currently in the truck and a strong runner. No major leaks except for slight leak around valve cover gasket and it does not burn any oil. Recent tune-up as well.
I am getting ready to swap this motor with a 351w I am rebuilding. I will be able to start and test run engine for you until it is removed. After that, it will be drained, corked and set aside on the stand or crate.
Complete engine only, will not part out at this time.
Please, serious inquires only.
will split shipping to lower 48 only
#2
Hey how does 300 compare to size of the 170 I6 (length and width)? I'm considering putting a 300 into an early Bronco that had a 170 in it already but someone told me the block was way to long. What was in you truck before the 300?
Thanks Jeff
Thanks Jeff
#3
Originally a 240 but this was used to replace it for more towing torque. The truck is a 66 F100.
I can't say for certain about the engine length of the 170 although I have seen 240's in old Broncos as late as 1969 models. A friend scrapped his 240 for a 302 but this was way back in 1980. The 240 is the same block as the 300 just a different bore and stroke. If any mods need to be performed, it would pertain to the bell housing, this motor uses same bolt pattern as the 289-302-351w family, and shortening or removing the cooling fan and replacing with an electric unit. I may be wrong though.
I can't say for certain about the engine length of the 170 although I have seen 240's in old Broncos as late as 1969 models. A friend scrapped his 240 for a 302 but this was way back in 1980. The 240 is the same block as the 300 just a different bore and stroke. If any mods need to be performed, it would pertain to the bell housing, this motor uses same bolt pattern as the 289-302-351w family, and shortening or removing the cooling fan and replacing with an electric unit. I may be wrong though.
#5
Unfortunately I've never been able to get a good reading. The speedo gear is wrong for the rear end and our MPH and Odometer is not accurate. I can say for certain it is a whole heck of a lot better than when I had the 1bbl carb and original intake and exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking close to 17mpg if not better based off of how much driving I get out of a tank of fuel. That's of course if your not horsing around with the throttle. Then it's like any other 4bbl.
Any takers? This is a really strong motor. The manifold, carb and header will cost you a grand just for those plus a rebuilt 300 with only 5000 miles on it? That should be worth at least the $500 remaining. C'mon gang. Some one has got to want a strong 300! this is not a piece of junk I'm trying to unload for the heck of it!
Any takers? This is a really strong motor. The manifold, carb and header will cost you a grand just for those plus a rebuilt 300 with only 5000 miles on it? That should be worth at least the $500 remaining. C'mon gang. Some one has got to want a strong 300! this is not a piece of junk I'm trying to unload for the heck of it!
#7
Quick question for ya. Did you do anything to warm/heat the intake after you upgraded ex./int. manifolds (it doesn't look like it), and if not how did it start and run for you in the cold weather (I see your in VA).
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#8
It starts just fine since it does have an electric choke. I don't drive it often becuse it is work in process but on occasion, I do. I let it run for a minute or two and drive off. Then it acts like any other old motor without so if you load it down in 1st, it will cough and spit like any other motor. But that's once or twice. I'm sure if I let it run for 5 minutes before I drive, it would'nt have any issues but I'm from the school of thought that you just get in and drive and let things heat up as you go. If there is ice on the windshield, then it warms up enough for the defroster to start to work and I don't have issues.
I'm sure you can add an old air cleaner or might even know someone who has one and that would do the trick but I haven't found one anywhere and I don't want to spend the money to buy a new one.
I'm sure you can add an old air cleaner or might even know someone who has one and that would do the trick but I haven't found one anywhere and I don't want to spend the money to buy a new one.
#9
Thanks, was curious because we're in about the same region and I'm not really wanting to mess with heating stock intake since I'd like to get a 4v intake when possible, but now have efi exhaust instead of "log".
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homesteader4
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-09-2011 07:53 PM