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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #16  
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After 10k:



Post pics when you get them!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #17  
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Going by the pic, and trying to measure a quarter, it looks like you have 14-15/32nd left. I'll call it 14.5, since they come with 18.5 new and that makes the math easy. 10000/4= 2500 miles per 32nd. 2500x15.5 usable tread= 38,750 per tire. Not great, but not bad for an aggressive tire. I would be very happy to see that, it is over 10,000 better than most MT's. And those figures have alot of room for err.

I will be sure to post pics and keep this updated for wear.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #18  
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Yeah, on the edges of the tread there are these two little step downs i guess you could call them, and they are both still there. I really dont see any noticeable wear yet, i expect them to last for a very long time
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:39 PM
  #19  
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Acf6 is your Truck lifted or leveled and are those 265's or 285's?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:40 PM
  #20  
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They are 265/75/16 and it is technically lifted because its an F250 and ive put in Readylift 4" rear blocks and a 2" Icon front mini pack
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #21  
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What size blocks are stock?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #22  
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in an F250 they are around 1.7-8" tall
 
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #23  
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These should be out here soon. Might cost a little though...
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 03:50 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by kawcrasher
Thanks, again. Once I get wheels I got cleaned up I will be picking up set. All the shops around here are $1000-1100 out the door with balance bags.

To show why I'm so paranoid about gravel. These are the Goodyear MTR's I took off about 4 months ago, to put my old, bald, but round tires back on. The only good thing about these tires was that I made $145 off the the deal. Got them used with nearly full tread, but wore on the inside edge. All the chunks and cuts are from 6 months or so on my truck. I wish I had a Picture of the Bridgestone's the went from new to belts in about 200yds of the tires slipping while pulling a trailer up a hill with my old van.


These are the wheels the Cooper's will be going on. Most likely the will get Plasti-dipped satin black. It just peals off if I don't like and will seal and protect the wheels from chips.

The Goodyear MTRs are garbage, i put a set of 315/75/16's on my 99 Dodge Cummins, i shifted into second in the parking lot of discount and rolled into it and the truck went sideways, they are WAY too soft. I backed my bosses boat down at the lake once and lost enough lugs that it took 6-8 ounces to rebalance each tire. I never spun them pulling it in or out. It was just rocky. It was all solved for me when I had one blow out less then 6k miles after I put them on. I went to BFG AT's and have not looked back. I have got around 45-55k out of every set since then.

Oh on the Weld wheels look them over really close. I had the Weld Scorpio V's on mine (16"x10" wide), I had one separate on me and another crack and start loosing air. I had heard a creaking sound for a day or so and thought it was the center cap loose. It came apart just after i got off the freeway. i was really lucky on that. I got new rims after that, they were not as offset as before and I have not had to replace a single wheel bearing since. ( the most i got before was 12-18k miles a set).
 
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Nsaan
The Goodyear MTRs are garbage, i put a set of 315/75/16's on my 99 Dodge Cummins, i shifted into second in the parking lot of discount and rolled into it and the truck went sideways, they are WAY too soft. I backed my bosses boat down at the lake once and lost enough lugs that it took 6-8 ounces to rebalance each tire. I never spun them pulling it in or out. It was just rocky. It was all solved for me when I had one blow out less then 6k miles after I put them on. I went to BFG AT's and have not looked back. I have got around 45-55k out of every set since then.

Oh on the Weld wheels look them over really close. I had the Weld Scorpio V's on mine (16"x10" wide), I had one separate on me and another crack and start loosing air. I had heard a creaking sound for a day or so and thought it was the center cap loose. It came apart just after i got off the freeway. i was really lucky on that. I got new rims after that, they were not as offset as before and I have not had to replace a single wheel bearing since. ( the most i got before was 12-18k miles a set).
I totally agree on the MTR's or any Goodyear tires being junk. I grew up in Akron and know many GY employees, and can tell you their opinion of the tire is not any better than mine. One engineer claims that if they have made a round tire in the past 20 years it was by accident.

I will say the gravel around here does that to most tires. I have seen BFG and Bridgestone do even worse.

The Weld wheel cracking problem was on diesel trucks running 2-piece wheels.
These are the F1 series that did not have that problem. They are a forged one-piece wheel that are hub centric and use the factory flanged lug nuts. I have not heard of any problems from this series and checked them over well anyway. I heard rumors that the tooling for these wheels is what lead to Weld going bankrupt. The high retail cost of these wheels never allowed enough be sold to recover the cash put into their development. I was told that in 01 they cost $540 a piece, so I can see why they didn't sell.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2012 | 12:05 AM
  #26  
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I finally got around to cleaning up the wheels today. They cleaned up pretty good but there is some pitting on the face and the dirt and corrosion hid a lot of curb rash. One had slime in it and it ate at the wheel pretty bad, but the bead and valve stem area's still look good.

I polished one, plasti-dipped one and left 2 just cleaned until I get the tires on. The polished one looks good from and 15' away and in pictures, but not so great up close, in person. Just cleaned isn't to bad, but I think I am still leaning on towards the black.






The pitting on the polished wheel.



The Plasti-dip. I think it looks great without center caps and the chrome nuts.





What do you guys think?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:23 AM
  #27  
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They look great black like that. Very nice.

I'm considering the S/T Maxx for my 2011, but the size choices are terrible. On my stock 18" wheels only one size: stock. I wanted to go up to at least the 34's it cam with from the factory. Swapped 20" wheels at the dealership, traded down to the 18" instead.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:21 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SARDiverDan
These should be out here soon. Might cost a little though...
I haven't seen these in a while... I make sure I get a set and put right next to the Mattracks.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #29  
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ST MAXX

Originally Posted by kawcrasher
I finally got around to cleaning up the wheels today. They cleaned up pretty good but there is some pitting on the face and the dirt and corrosion hid a lot of curb rash. One had slime in it and it ate at the wheel pretty bad, but the bead and valve stem area's still look good.

I polished one, plasti-dipped one and left 2 just cleaned until I get the tires on. The polished one looks good from and 15' away and in pictures, but not so great up close, in person. Just cleaned isn't to bad, but I think I am still leaning on towards the black.






The pitting on the polished wheel.



The Plasti-dip. I think it looks great without center caps and the chrome nuts.





What do you guys think?
Been looking at ST MAXX and I am wondering your out come. Did you settle with them on these Weld wheels? How do they look and ride? Got pics?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:35 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 98GP
Been looking at ST MAXX and I am wondering your out come. Did you settle with them on these Weld wheels? How do they look and ride? Got pics?
I never got them. I had a big change at work and my truck became a tow rig only, I went to a more road biased tire. I regretted this very quickly.

I got lucky and had problem with 3 of the 4 tires and got them all replaced for free. I couldn't wait for them to order in the cooper maxx, so I ended up with Mastercraft Courser C/T.
 
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