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replacing oil cooler

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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jl4407
OK cool I will get it as clean as I can in the valley, and everything else with brake cleaner, anything else I should do?
How much do you want to spend and how far into the engine do you want to go? Personally speaking, I'd check to make sure your EGR cooler isn't leaking (you've already got it out)...clean the turbo and use the nickel anti-seize; then start putting things back together. You could spend a small fortune replacing things "since your there"...but they could be fine for another 100k plus miles.

Maybe the thermostat, coolant hoses and CAC clamps. But other than having the coolant out of the engine...the rest you can do at some other time.
Originally Posted by jl4407
I think I have asked this before but is there any way to test ur egr cooler to make sure its good
You could pressure test it...but I've yet to deal with that on mine. Was there coolant in your intake before you tore everything apart? That would be an indicator if it was leaking.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jl4407
OK what a day!! Oil cooler is out, that is a lot of work!! OK so what is the best way to clean the valley the cooler sits in, I have it pretty clean now but is there anything special I should do? And is OK to spray some parts with some parts cleaner to clean them up before I put them back in.
Oh and intake is soaking in purple power as we speak and will over night
I would just suck the HPO reservoir out with a shop vac and call it good any lint from a rag or anything there and you might have issues with the IPR



Best to use carb cleaner for those sensors you pulled out of the intake manafold to clean
 
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:24 PM
  #48  
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No there was no coolant that came out of the egr othere than from where it goes into the oil cooler. I looked in the end of it and it looks really dry. I did find out that I have the square egr cooler, boo,lol
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 05:16 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jl4407
I think I have asked this before but is there any way to test ur egr cooler to make sure its good
The TSB says to air test the cooler to 30 psi. It might take an extended time for any air bubbles to show up if the leak is small.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #50  
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All good info. I'm going to be doing all this plus head studs in a week or so. Argh. Ford took all of us over these problems. There should have been recalls IMO!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #51  
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I used a baster and a cut up plastic bottle in the sump. NO RAGS-lint can clog. Replace the screen in the bottom of the sump. Bismic has some good pics and directions on how to clean/recondition the turbo in his gallery. Maybe the blue spring update, but like zhilton says, you can do that at another time. Check yur CAC boots if they were oily or they are cracked up, replace them.
 

Last edited by Striderwv; Feb 11, 2012 at 01:24 PM. Reason: thought of something else
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #52  
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Can anyone tell me what I torque the bolts to that hold the whole thing to the block??
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:06 PM
  #53  
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send me yur email address.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #54  
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jlong4407@gmail.com
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #55  
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Sorry I did that wrong but there it is thanks!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #56  
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pdf on the way
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:39 PM
  #57  
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Oil cooler is in and parts are cleaned, but I'm in holding pattern due to me waiting on my egr delete should be here today I hope. Lol, is there anything I can do until it gets here. I think the intake can't go in until egr egr gets here
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #58  
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good time to recondition that turbo
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #59  
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How do I do that lol
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 03:14 PM
  #60  
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This should be fun!! lol
 
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