Thanks for looking...

'79 F-150 Super Cab, 2wd, 460, C6, all original, near as I can tell.

On it's 3rd replacement starter in about a year, last 2 in 3 weeks, sounding like it needs a 4th. First one lasted until a weak battery allowed it to chew its teeth off not engaging well. Probably a little too much timing. Replaced with another AutoZone starter, adjusted timing. Replace the flexplate also, since it looked rough enough and I didn't want to have constant issues (sure glad that worked out).

That starter was defective from the start. Lots of noise, jumped, just bad. AZ agreed and replaced it about 2 weeks later. New starter in, worked fine for about a week. Last Thursday, went to start up, showed 12 volts before cranking, turned a couple times, jumped out, turned again, then quit.

It had been a little noisy like the previous, just not nearly as much noise. It basically chatters, sounds like maybe a little too much gear lash. Was gonna bring it into the shop so I could put the truck up on my lift and see what was up, but no dice. Then I had to work so I haven't been home to get the truck.

Could use a little advice on this because I don't see why I'd have so much trouble with starters unless I just messed up installing it or got bad starters. Confirm? Refute? Just help....

 

Cables, cables, cables!!! Replace your battery to solinoid and solinoid to starter cables with at least 4ga wires. Would be better if you used 2ga. Frying starters like that is definatly a voltage issue. It would also be a good idea to swap your solinoid at the same time. I know 2 ga seems like over kill but believe me it takes alot to crank over a 460. Also might be a good time for a general tune up. Any timing in the wrong direction is going to make for a hard starting truck. Which puts strain on that starter.

 

I agree with co425. Have you considered replacing that starter with a gear reduction model (I think they used them in 94 95) ive heard they are much smaller and have way more torque. Good luck

 

Don't remember where I got this info from but... 92-93 7.5L F-Series has a gear-reduction starter that works with the older 460's.

 

I've wanted to put on the GR starter, but the one I looked up at ye olde zone was an offset pinion, I'll have to look some more to see for sure on that.

I replaced the solenoid to starter cable a starter ago. The battery to solenoid wire looks tobe in as-new condition, so who knows there. I thought of replacing the solenoid before, and still probably will, but again, who knows there...

It's frusterating. The last starters witness marks showed that it engaged fully, but the gear lash was way too big. I won't be surprised if this one is going either way...

#$%^&!!!!

 

I have a question regarding those newer starters. When I bought my truck the starter bolts where stripped and we had to notch the tranny and use nuts and bolts. but the starter torque (spelling) had broke the bolts so we had to use stronger ones will the gear reduction one reduce that or make it worse. Sorry I didn't mean to ask during someone elses thread.

 

1979 460: There are two different flexplates (and harmonic balancers), because there are two different 460 engines.

Ford changed the 460 midyear 1979. Because this was an assembly plant "running change" there is no before/from specific serial numbers or production dates.

The block's casting number must be known to get the correct parts

Block casting number: D1VE-6059-AB = D1SZ-6375-A .. Flexplate-Use without weighted spacer.

Applications: 1968/73 429 & 1968/78 460 Passenger Cars; 1973/78, some 1979 F100/350 460's; 1975/78 and some 1979 Econoline 460's // Note: No 460's after 1978 in cars.
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Block casting number D9TE-6059-AB = D9TZ-6375-A .. Flexplate-Use with weighted spacer.

Applications: Some 1979 F100/350 & Econoline 460's / 1980/97: F250/350, F(Super Duty) & Econoline 460's.

If you install the wrong flexplate, there will be a vibration that will eventually tear the center from the flexplate. Not pleasant!

 

Yeah, I knew about that and got the correct flexplate for my externally balanced D9TE. Thanks for keeping folks up on that one, as thats a great way to trash things.

I dont think I'll get back to it until next week, but at least I can get some other folks' heads in the game until then.

 

Do you have the thin plate betwen the engine and transmission? Its needed to locate the starter.

 

+1
Thats what I was going to ask.

 

Yes there also. It was installed correctly and looked good when I did the flexplate. I know it locates the starter.

I guess I'm torn between needing to slot the starter bolt hole to adjust the lash or assuming that AZ has some junk remans around right now, versus maybe a invisibly damaged power wire, solenoid issue or a weak battery that wont keep the voltage up during cranking.

Probably going to have to do full voltage drop tests, charge and test the battery, r/r starter and inspect witness marks, establish TDC and set base timing again, adjust gear lash, and at worst case I'll pull the trans and mock up the starter and maybe test lash and cranking action that way.

I wanna really do this right and not just assume things and start trying starters from every partshouse in town, even if it seems easier at first.

Opinions? Am I just making this difficult for myself?

Thanks too all for suggestions so far, even though I'm sure I did it all right with the correct parts I'll keep all that stuff in mind to double check as I go along, unless I've already triple checked it already.

I'll also try to post any results as well. Keep the ideas coming and I'll keep checking back too.

 

Are these rebuilt/ reman starters or actual brand new ones? I couldn't get a new one from a parts house around here so I got one online and cured my problems.. Rebuilt anything seems to be a waste of time and money lately, especially anything electrical.. Course new sometimes is not always better either..

 

Stopped using Auto-Zone starters due to this issue.