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I found a 1970 F100 Custom today that I would like to know the value on, It has 68000 original miles, 300 I-6 and a 3spd. It's a custom, manual steering, manual brakes, windows, locks, all that. Now for the interesting part. It's a regular cab, short bed, flareside, with a spare tire carrier. The rear bumper looks like a cut down styleside bumper (dealer installed?). The driver rear fender is dented from a retread coming loose, looks like it could be bent back true. There is rust in the bottom of both doors (not completely gone, but holes) the bottom of the driver fender, and the hood. The hood is probably toast. There are two small rust holes in the roof above and behind the driver door. The truck was an original radio delete, but someone drilled and installed an antenna on the cowl. The truck seems to be all there, runs and drives great. He's stuck on $3500, and I was wondering if it would be worth buying and patching up. I'm not thinking a street rod, just bring it back to the way it was.
Alot of factors determine the value of a vehicle - relative rarity, desirability, conditions, mileage, etc...Six bangers are generally priced less than V8s..... In the end, it's worth whatever someone will pay for it.
$3500? That asking price is incongruent with the described condition...IMO, the seller must be smoking crack or watched too many hours of the Barrett-Jackson auction on Speed.
In my area, it'd prolly go for btwn $1000 and $1500.
I thought it sounded high, I just wasn't sure how high. He says he's got $3500 in it. He's talking to somebody who knows about having WAY too much money in lots of things. I may make him an offer of 2k, all I can do.
Indeed. They're around. I just happened onto the first one. The 300 I-6 and manual everything just screams reliability. You still thinking that $1500 is about top price?
Indeed. They're around. I just happened onto the first one. The 300 I-6 and manual everything just screams reliability. You still thinking that $1500 is about top price?
Prolly a little higher in this case. I mean, if it is truly unmolested then maybe paying a bit more premium is OK. On my 73, I paid more because it had new brakes and new tires. The tires were so new that they still had the lil nubs and the blue protective covering over the raised white wall lettering. A six banger isn't hot rod material and that is a good thing. It would generally lead me to believe that is hasn't had the snot beaten out of it like a V8 would.
I happened upon my 70 through a former co-worker. He and his wife were about to scrap it for $650 - the payment ya get from the local air district to scrap old vehicles. It only has 70K miles and that is documented cuz it was passed down to the wife from her grandfather. It's really complete and about the only thing non-original is the Pertonix ignition. Her dad retrofitted a power steering system (which makes be really happy).
The deals are out there but IMO, your seller is a tad high on the asking price.
I found a styleside around with a 390 and a 3spd that they want $1500 for. I may look into that. It isn't near as clean, but it would be a project. How do you tell between a 390 and a 360?
I found a styleside around with a 390 and a 3spd that they want $1500 for. I may look into that. It isn't near as clean, but it would be a project. How do you tell between a 390 and a 360?
For $1500, ya'd have a $2000 difference in price. How much can that $2K buy ya to bring it up to the condition of the flareside? Two grand can buy alot of upgrades and rebuilt systems.
360 vs 390....Ya pull a spark plug and measure the stroke with a piece of dowel per Sleepy445FE:
Originally Posted by Sleepy445FE
You need to do the dowel test. Get a wooden dowel. Remove spark plugs and insert dowel into any cylinder. Have a friend turn it over by hand, and make a mark at the lowest and highest places of the stroke. You could also bring #1 up to TDC and mark the dowel in the 1 and then 4 cylinders, but it's harder to turn over. The difference between the two is the stroke. 3.5"=352/360, about 3 3/4"(3.784)=390.
If you wind up with 3.5" the only way to tell if it's a 352 or 360 is to pull the head and measure the bore. 4.00"=352, 4.05"=360/390/410
I would say it also depends on where at in the Country you are located. Everyone posts up about these pipe dream prices. I know there are plenty of trucks, that can be bought for good money. Everyone wants to get a good deal.However, here in Oklahoma, even the junk, rusted out longbeds, that dont even run, still bring $1,500-$2,000. If its a shortbed, that runs/drives at all, its bringing $5,000+ here.
I sold my longbed for $8,500 two summers ago. It was a really nice looking truck, with new paint and all..but it hadnt been restored or anythign.
I would rather travel a little bit, to find a nice truck, for good money...but, then you have to figure in travel costs/towing/fuel into the overall purchase price.
I paid $1500 (full asking price) for mine. Another $500 for transport from GA to IN. 302/auto, PS, PB, discs up front. Edelbrock intake, Holley carb, long tube headers. Very solid body. 1970 SWB Styleside. Hoods are getting tougher and tougher to find. They are not reproduced. Keep that in mind when contemplating.
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