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Ticking sound when cold

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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 12:58 PM
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Ticking sound when cold

My Ex has developed an occasional ticking sound first thing in the morning. On the mornings with I can hear it, the sound starts within a minute of starting the engine (sometimes at startup and sometimes several seconds later) and continues for 2 or 3 minutes. The ticking increases in speed as the engine RPM comes up, but vacuum, pulley speed, air flow, etc. all increase, too.

My F150 makes the exact same sound and has for about 140,000 miles. (The Ex is a 6.8L, the F10 a 5.4L.) I used to think that it was in the EGR, then the serpentine belt, then a pulley. I finally gave up worrying about it as it hasn't been a problem, only an irritation on some mornings.


Any thoughts as to what it can be?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Exhaust leak? Does it do it after you truck is warm and you have a warm start? If not, you could have a few broken exhaust manifold studs. They should be easy to check from underneath the truck, do a visual to count each manifold bold head. Minor exhaust leaks essentially seal themselves as the motor heats up, the metals expand and close the gap.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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I don't think that it's an exhaust leak. Sure doesn't sound like one.

The truck has to sit overnight, and the overnight low get below 70F. The entire engine has to get below 70F.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:27 PM
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Sounds like a hydraulic lifter. I don't know enough about the V10 engine to know if the valve train uses hydraulic lifters though.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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what oil and filter are you using?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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non-synthetic 20W-50 oil, don't recall what filter is in it.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BassFantasizer
non-synthetic 20W-50 oil, don't recall what filter is in it.
That oil is too thick, you should run 5w 20 with a motorcraft filter.

The thinner oil will reach all the places in your engine sooner. the motorcraft filter is actually a very good quality filter.

I also agree, check the exhaust for leaks.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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Check for broken/rusted exhaust manifold studs!
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:11 PM
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Cracked pistons will do that too but it's not likely.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:54 PM
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I can't imagine 140,000 miles on a cracked piston without something breaking in spectacular/expensive fashion, but I'll keep it in mind.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 02:59 PM
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With cracked piston you would also have excessive crankcase pressure due to the blow by.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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X2 on the manifold bolts
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cbradford
With cracked piston you would also have excessive crankcase pressure due to the blow by.
Not really, the rings will still control the pressure, it's the skirts that normally crack and that is where the clearances are also. It is always more pronounced when they are cold. If the top was cracked you would know it.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BassFantasizer
I can't imagine 140,000 miles on a cracked piston without something breaking in spectacular/expensive fashion, but I'll keep it in mind.
I can. They can crack any time and remain cracked for a long time.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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Bass, change your oil to thinner 5 w 20 motorcraft synthetic blend.
change your oil filter to motorcraft.

I on a recommendation switched to 10 w 40 at 100K miles, instantly got a ticking noise. Ran it for about 500 miles and switched back. That was 95k miles ago, today at 195k+ my engine sounds like it did when new.

BTW, when i travel to colder climates (freezing or lower) I do get some noises light ticks for about 2-5 seconds. She has been doing this for years and Ford's Best here in Fort Lauderdale claims that that is within Ford specs. (dont know how true that is but again its been the same for years).

I also agree with other post here on the exhaust leak at the manifold, this is a known problem with our V10's. They tick when leaking until everything heats up and expands.

In my case it ticked for just a few seconds when cold, the only way i was able to find where on the manifold it was leaking was by looking for exhaust residue on the engine. Also found 3 broken studs on my drivers side. When I went with Headers all studs were replaced with bolts.

If it were my truck, I would start with and oil change and filter using oem spec.
I would run it for a couple hundred miles then do it again.
(almost like flushing).

I wouldnt be to concerned with pistons etc. at this point. These V10's can take a lot.

I will be in the market for a diesel Ex in a few months just for the hell of it, but I will NOT be selling my gasser. She's my casket!
I hope this helps, Michael
 
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