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I got a 63 f100 short bed and was wondering how to tell if its a custom cab it has the chrome door handle plates but no other badges so what exactly makes it a custom cab
The early Custom Cab trucks had a stainless dash bezel trim plate that fits it the area where all of the switches are as well as a Chrome metal dash bezel.
The door handle plates were an option as I recall..their p/n is a C3TB as I recall whereas the full Custom Cab script seen on all 6 years is a C1TZ p/n...The plates are most commonly found originally on 63 and 64 trucks.
additionally there were aluminum scuff plates and the plastic upper door panels with aluminum door trim starting on 1964 model year trucks.
I have a 63 F100 short bed and was wondering how to tell if it's a custom cab. It has the chrome door handle plates, but no other badges. So what exactly makes it a custom cab?
1963 only: If the BODY code (stamped on Warranty Plate) is 81A = Standard Cab / If 81B = Custom Cab // If 66A = Uni Standard Cab / If 66B = Uni Custom Cab.
1963 Custom Cab package included: Stainless steel windshield reveal mouldings, Custom Cab script nameplates, bright (anodized) aluminum grille and headlamp doors. Stainless steel hubcaps (2WD), white steering wheel, horn ring (2WD). Woven nylon seat upholstery with vinyl bolsters and vinyl facings, foam rubber seat cushion. Chrome instrument cluster bezel, cigar lighter, left armrest, right sun visor, matched R/L door locks.
Optional: Chrome front bumper, right armrest, Oil & Amp gauges, padded dash, Custom Cab door handle guards, side mouldings...but Ford did not install side mouldings if the truck was ordered with the optional door handle guards.
jhooch: There is no "trim" code on these trucks, it's known as the BODY code. 1963 is unique, as all it lists are the cab types.
I know it has bolth armrests and chrome winshield trim chrome bumper and aluminum grill and cigar lighter unfortunatly the seats and dash was taken out when I got it
If it has a 63 aluminum grille in it it is in all probability a CC truck as the grilles are a pain to pull given broken clips etc during removal. By the dash being taken out, what all do you mean was missing ? I have most of the parts for this...Are you needing the wiring harness too or ???
Post pics of what you have, and feel free to post the warranty plate info which will be on a plate riveted to the inside of the glovebox door.
I got the wiring and got a dash out of a 64 and am doing aftermarket guages with diamond plate I would post pics but im on my phone and cant figure it out and yea I tried taking the grill out and any tips on taking the bottom bolts out without cutting them
If the core support is junk I would pull the grille and lower valance as one...If its good I would get a cheap 1/2" and 9/16" open end wrench and grind it down so its thinner and can get to the bolt heads and nut plates on the back easier. The nutplates are the real bear to deal with as the area in the lower grille area is very tight. before going at it though I would thoroughly remove the crud and muck behind the headlight area and hit the nutplates with PB Blaster as mentioned prior after drying out the flushed area.
The lower hood latch reinforcement brace bolts screw into nutplates in the core support...go easy on those too as if they start spinning you have a major headache as those bolts tie the braces, lower valance, grille and core support together. There is zero access to those nutplates either.
are the nutplates spinning on those 2 vertical braces to the hood latch ??
If its the grille ones on the end...open end wrench is whats needed...
If the center ones are the spinners...take the hood latch out and i would recommend radiator removal too as you are gonna prolly end up losing the supports during the process.