Hello all. Been reading since 2001-ish. Thought I was registered, but after a long search for my old screen name, just made a new one.
I have a 68 F100 that I've been working on since I was in high school, since about 2000. It's been sitting in storage for a looooong time, and I've been saving this winter to try and get it finished this summer. I have a few unique questions that some of you may have run into when I'm putting together my parts list and getting ideas.
Mods so far: Full tilt fiberglass front end, new stepside bed with roll pan, wider fenders and a cover. Some body mods - shaved gas tank hole, roof seems and deleted all trim along with replacing cab corners, floors and new cab mounts. It's got a Ford Racing 302 with 345 horsepower, and a built up C4 trans.
Major things on the to do list this summer: Lower it, lots of electrical, some interior stuff, and DRIVE THE THING!!!
The truck is going to be nice, but it'll never win 1st place at a car show. I'm wanting to keep it simple, and just have something really nice to cruise in.
First questions deal with suspension. From the pictures below, you all will see it sits too high. But, because of the fiberglass front end, and the light weight 302 which is half aluminum, there is not enough weight in the front to weigh down the front suspension. No more weight will be going on the front other than a front bumper and a E-fan. The battery will be mounted in the bed. I'll be doing the lowered I-beams. What I need is some good coil springs to use to lower it, and give it a softer ride. The current coils can be easily cut to get the wheels sit straight again, but I don't want a rock solid ride, or have the front end bounce up with every bump I hit. Any suggestions? I'd rather not do the Crown Vic front end swap just to keep it simple.
What about rear suspension? I've seen a few on here use shackles to lower it. What about just a axle flip kit? I've determined I'm going to have to C-notch the frame to get it to sit where I want and still have some suspension travel.
Does anyone have any experience or reviews about a Ididit steering column? I like that they have tilt, and more modern. Plus mine was originally a column shift, and need to get rid of that lever. Does anyone have pictures?
Who makes the best wood kit for the bed? I'll have to modify it for the fuel cell in the bed, otherwise it should be a stock style install.
The engine has accessories from a V8 Explorer. You think I'll be able to wire the Explorer alternator to the factory charging system??? Or should I just plan on getting wiring diagrams and harness from a explorer?
The power steering pump is also from a Explorer. I need to buy a new power steering box, as it has a manual steering box on it right now. It shouldn't be too much of a problem to have a shop make some hoses for it? Or you think I should just stick with manual steering?
I love my 67 grille that's on it right now. It has a few very small dings in it. Is there a good place I can send it in to straighten it out, and get everything polished?
It also has '67 doors on it, with the problematic window regulators. Are there any good aftermarket solutions to this? Power window kits that worked well for any of you?
I have many other questions, but a lot of it is stuff to do with the front end. I need a better way of securing it shut up against the split rear fender things. Also some way to hold it open when tilted foward, and a way to mount a E-fan, but that will come when I get working on it again.
Heres some pictures:

 

This is my project I did while saving up to finish the 68. A 91 Ranger. I want the exact same stance with the 68, with the same wheels, except with the black spokes. I went way over budget with the 91 as well, which is what delayed the completion of the 68 for so long...

And here is the daily driver. 06 PSD. All stock except for a super clean cooling system with a coolant filter. Staying stock... can't afford to modify this one!


As you all can see I'm a HUGE Ford Truck fan, and will never drive anything else!

 

That hood on the 68. Well how did you do it? What scoops did you buy? did you just buy the hood? I have to know

 

www.usbody.com They make hoods like that for pretty much every year Ford truck. GT-500. I see prices have raised significantly since I bought in 2001! Same exact hood is 500 more now than when I bought it. But very good quality, and thick and straight fiberglass. I had to sand a lot of the gelcoat seams, but otherwise required no body work.

 

thanks and that is a bit of cash. i was hoping you bout some scoops and welded in

 

Welcome to FTE

The only thing problematic with the regulators is, they are 1967 only. Otherwise they are basically made the same as all manual regulators.

1967 F100/750:

C7TZ-8123200-A .. Right Window Regulator / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 14 = 800-476-9653.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
C7TZ-8123201-A .. Left Window Regulator / Obsolete

WHITE FORD CO. in Chiefland FL has 1 = 800-777-4297.

CARPENTER has 35.
================
Is the regulator defective? Or is it something else?

COAB-6423240-B .. Nylon Window Roller / Obsolete

Attaches to stud on end of regulator, then fits into the window glass channel. When the little charmer breaks, the window falls down into the door.

Applications: Myriad 1960/74 FoMoCo vehicles, available from most autoparts stores, and...

PHILIP MOTOR CO. in Philip SD has 9 = 800-859-5557.

HARRY K FORD-LINCOLN in Winner SD has 10 = 800-888-1419.

GREEN SALES has 12.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 50 = 888-727-0418.

MCCOY-MILLS FORD in Fullerton CA has 76 = 714-526-5501.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has 121 = 817-275-2381.

 

Thanks for the help with the window regulators. I used to go to the junkyards and be able to find them. I went through a few of them when it was my daily, and now the drivers door is stripped out again. Guys at the junkyard say they go out all the time, which is why they updated them in '68. When it works, it goes up and down freely, so it isn't stuck or bound up on anything.

I'm still stumped on what to do with the front springs. I'm thinking springs off of a 2wd 4 cylinder Ranger that have been cut down a coil would work, or something similar. Anyone know if that would work? Spring diameter close to the same? Trying to get it to sit lower with the wheels even with a front end that is about 500 pounds lighter than before. Trying to avoid air bags.

 

Guys at the junkyard haven't a single clue! This info is not only false, but ridiculous. Where do peeps come up with this crap?

The reason the regulators were changed in 1968: A new Federal Safety Standards Law went into effect that stated all vehicles had to have door lock *****.

This law necessitated FoMoCo changing the door design for 1968. Most of the 1967 parts won't fit the new door. Most of the 1968 (1968/72) parts won't fit the 1967 door.

1967 only: Door shells, window regulators, door remote controls, door latches, door latch & outside handle link rods, armrests, inside door and window handles, door trim panels, vent window frames & handles.

1967/72 same: Weatherstrips, glass, upper and lower door hinges, door lock cylinders, division bars, outside door handles.

 

Any other reason I keep stripping these things out?

 

The truck is 45 years old and you are replacing the worn out regulators with used regulators that are also close to being worn out.

How many times during the past 45 years have the windows been cranked up/down? Thousands!

 

ha ha - from my experience restoring old cars/trucks (and I've done a few) - - - - - if you have to deal with a budget, it's never gonna be quite right! You may just have to drag the project out longer than you planned, it's easier to stretch your time frame than adhere to a budget.

good luck