Starting an engine after 10 years?
#16
that's the most effective way. if i had the chance to do that to my truck (it sat for 13 years) then i would have done it that way. you could try and siphon the old gas out of the tank, but i wouldn't because there could be debris in the bottom of the tank that you don't want to get in your fuel system.
#17
Just to see if it fires up and runs? Yeah, run a 3/8" ID rubber hose from the fuel pump to a jug of gasoline and run it off that without introducing the unknown contents to your carb.
If successful, then go ahead and inspect, clean and /or the fuel tank(s)... might also replace the sender(s) too.
If successful, then go ahead and inspect, clean and /or the fuel tank(s)... might also replace the sender(s) too.
#18
I dosen't really matter where the crank is for this purpose just mark the position of the rotor pull the distrbutor, spin oil pump to lube then replace distrbutor with the rotor in the same position, be certain not to turn crank with distrbutor out. IMO if the motor is not frozen and the starter spins it , change the oil and pull coil wire and spin motor this will help coat all surfaces and pump up lifter that have most likley bled down . Good luck
#19
#20
My dad bought my 66 Fairlane in 1974 and parked it in 1976 where it sat until I drug it home in 2006, it hadn't ran in 30 years.
As as far as the engine goes I rebuilt the carb, new fuel pump, new water pump (locked up), new vavle seals (brittle & falling apart), new timing chain set (original nylon gear at 97k miles), spark plugs, dist cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, belt, hoses. I also primed the oil pump and sprayed motor oil in each cylinder. I also installed a new gas tank and all new brakes. Your situation isn't as extreme as mine but the car has been running for 5.5 years now with no issues. Good luck!
As as far as the engine goes I rebuilt the carb, new fuel pump, new water pump (locked up), new vavle seals (brittle & falling apart), new timing chain set (original nylon gear at 97k miles), spark plugs, dist cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, belt, hoses. I also primed the oil pump and sprayed motor oil in each cylinder. I also installed a new gas tank and all new brakes. Your situation isn't as extreme as mine but the car has been running for 5.5 years now with no issues. Good luck!
#21
My dad bought my 66 Fairlane in 1974 and parked it in 1976 where it sat until I drug it home in 2006, it hadn't ran in 30 years.
As as far as the engine goes I rebuilt the carb, new fuel pump, new water pump (locked up), new vavle seals (brittle & falling apart), new timing chain set (original nylon gear at 97k miles), spark plugs, dist cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, belt, hoses. I also primed the oil pump and sprayed motor oil in each cylinder. I also installed a new gas tank and all new brakes. Your situation isn't as extreme as mine but the car has been running for 5.5 years now with no issues. Good luck!
As as far as the engine goes I rebuilt the carb, new fuel pump, new water pump (locked up), new vavle seals (brittle & falling apart), new timing chain set (original nylon gear at 97k miles), spark plugs, dist cap, rotor, wires, points, condenser, belt, hoses. I also primed the oil pump and sprayed motor oil in each cylinder. I also installed a new gas tank and all new brakes. Your situation isn't as extreme as mine but the car has been running for 5.5 years now with no issues. Good luck!
#22
The "dizzy " is the distributor" ,, when you pull it , there is a rod in the block the runs the oil pump .. In order tho know if it is pumping oil . the valve covers need to be off ..If you feel it is important to do it ,,, IIRC it is a 1/4 socket to fit the rod .. THe cylinders will not be coated with oil doing this ,, crank bearings will already be OK ,, the cam lifters & rockers will be lubed by running the pump ....
It can't hurt ...
It can't hurt ...
#23
I would highly recommend replacing the fuel pump before you try to crank it, if not then proceed cautiously. I've personally had a good motor ruined by an old mechanical fuel pump. The diaphragms dry out after setting for years then they blow out when fuel in reintroduced to them thus pumping large amounts of gas directly into your oil pan.
#24
I would highly recommend replacing the fuel pump before you try to crank it, if not then proceed cautiously. I've personally had a good motor ruined by an old mechanical fuel pump. The diaphragms dry out after setting for years then they blow out when fuel in reintroduced to them thus pumping large amounts of gas directly into your oil pan.
I had a "new" (just over 1 year old) fuel pump leak into my engine, truck was backed into the driveway nose facing downhill, sat like that for about 3 months.
Turned out gas had siphoned into the engine during that time and kept the engine from turning over, made for a sudden change in the day's plans....
#25
With the engine sitting this long I would pull the valve covers and take a hammer (no kidding) and tap each rocker arm on the valve side. What you're looking for is a "solid" sound. That's what you don't want to hear. If you do hear a very solid thud that valve is siezed in place from sitting so long. It could be stuck either open or closed, just depends on it's position when the truck was last shut down. If you feel a "springy, soft feel" then the valve is still free.
Idealy this should be done with the rocker arm shafts off so you can tap directly on the valve but tapping the rocker arm should work too.
If you turn it over with a stuck valve you will at minimum bend pushrods.
Then X2, 3, & 4 on what everyone else has said.
Idealy this should be done with the rocker arm shafts off so you can tap directly on the valve but tapping the rocker arm should work too.
If you turn it over with a stuck valve you will at minimum bend pushrods.
Then X2, 3, & 4 on what everyone else has said.
#26
Just went through this with a truck that had sat for 12 years. +1 on all the above, but don't forget the little things like the fuel filter. Got mine started with fresh fuel, etc then it just died. Cut open the metal in-line fuel filter and it was amazing the crap that was in there ! Gonna keep it on my bench just as a reminder.
#27
I agree here!
I had a "new" (just over 1 year old) fuel pump leak into my engine, truck was backed into the driveway nose facing downhill, sat like that for about 3 months.
Turned out gas had siphoned into the engine during that time and kept the engine from turning over, made for a sudden change in the day's plans....
I had a "new" (just over 1 year old) fuel pump leak into my engine, truck was backed into the driveway nose facing downhill, sat like that for about 3 months.
Turned out gas had siphoned into the engine during that time and kept the engine from turning over, made for a sudden change in the day's plans....
#28
79 must be a good year, picked mine up last year after sitting in a farmers field for 7 years, hooked a battery to it, cranked right up, drove it home that day, no brakes, but I made it. Rebuilt the carb and it is my daily driver. Lots of work to do, but it starts everyday!
#29
hi im new to the site and was reading. i recently bought a 1979 f150 with the 6.6 l 400 that sat in a field since 1998 when i went to get it we simply disconnected the fuel line and stuck it into a small gas can under the hood and low and behold with a new battery and a shot of ether she fired right up after a few seconds of stuttering she ran like a timex
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