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2003 Sd spark plug question

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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:27 AM
  #16  
edjunior's Avatar
edjunior
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Roman Forest, TX
I think the "books" said 14 ft lb. That's what I torqued mine to.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:29 AM
  #17  
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critterf1
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From: Newport, N.C.
IIRC the torque #is 13. If yours is an '03 it isn't the 3 valve engine.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:34 AM
  #18  
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beached350
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What year range had the plugs that broke off when removing? Also, for those bad years, was it both 5.4 and 6.8?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 07:45 AM
  #19  
F250CCowner's Avatar
F250CCowner
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If you are worried about doing it you can see if these guys are in your area anytime soon and have Dave or Rick do the swap. They guarantee their work too. Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #20  
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acf6
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From: Manchester, CT
Club FTE Silver Member

This is what i used. From 1975StroppeBaja's writeup.


2004 F250 5.4L Spark Plug Change
 
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 04:53 PM
  #21  
2003 f-250's Avatar
2003 f-250
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From: ohio
you should look at the door jamb of your truck and see when the build date was. Half way through the 2003 model year they added more threads in the head for the spark plug. I torq'd mine to 24 ft. lbs. (reading numerous threads on this forum stated anywhere from 14 clear up to 28 ft. lbs. and I believe that the blownoutsparkplug guys are the ones that torque the plugs @ 28 ft. lbs.) The first time I changed them on my truck it took me about 2 or 3 hours being very careful and inspecting things. the second time took me less than an hour.
What you need to do is go to autozone and get their motorcraft plugs b/c they're like 1/3 of the price that the ford dealer wants for them. Then you will want a universal joint and several extensions along with a real 5/8ths spark plug socket (has rubber boot in it to "hold onto" the spark plug). Then you will need either a 1/4 inch drive set with a universal and a 7mm socker or a 7 mm wrench to get the cop's off. After the cop's are off you need to use your air compressor and a blow gun and try and blow out any debris that has settled in around your spark plugs. You may need to use a screw driver to break some of it up (I did). Then when you go to put the spark plug in, put a little bit of the silver colored anti-seize on the threads (remember, I said a little....more is not better) and make sure that you torque the plugs. Use dielectric grease on the boots, install cop's. And then you get to move onto the next.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEBMER IS TO LET THE ENGINE COOL DOWN BEFORE YOU CHANGE THE PLUGS. THE CHANCE OF STRIPPING OUT THE THREADS WHILE REMOVING THE PLUG IS MUCH HIGHER DUE TO THE ALUMINUM HEAD/METAL SPARK PLUGS.

hope this helped a little bit.
 
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