Finally got me one... more of an accident. Ordered one for an OBS and it wouldn't seal so Clay sent me another one. Guess I confused him since I have a SD and I was working on an OBS and I wound up getting a SD HPx. Instead of sending it back, I bought it off of him and he sent me the correct HPx for the OBS I was working on. Finally got around to installing the HPx. I love it... looks great and works better.

BUT... something interesting. I had a homemade HPx that I had put together using hydraulic hose. I had read that the crimps would leak over time and so I figured I'd just replace it later on. When I pulled it out to put Clay's HPx in, I was surprised to find that it had gone to pot already. Pretty fast IMO... not even two years. Anyways, I took pictures. Not really gonna go into how as Clay already has a top-notch instructional here. I did mine without taking out the spider. Not the easiest but it really wasn't that bad because I had the intake plumbing out of the truck at the time. So anyways, enjoy!

Hmmm... see what I see?


The crimps were leaking no doubt...




You can see how it was runing down the hose and dripping off the bottom of the bend:


The O-ring bosses and their locations:






THE HPx... nice stuff:


This is a directional product... just fyi:


HPx in... note that the bend in the HPx is towards the front of the truck:




Was pretty easy... took MAYBE 15 minutes or so. Thanks, Clay!

 

what gain do you get with doing this mod ??

 

The theory behind it is this:

The oil galleys in the heads are two separate entities. The PCM reads pressure off one head and since each cylinder fires at different times, there are pressure spikes between the heads. The HPx bridges the heads and makes the oil one body. It smooths out the idle and quiets it down some.

Thing is, some say they notice the difference and some say they don't... guess it depends on how much you're into the truck. I could tell the difference. I had the HPx on, then off, then on again when I did that OBS and it wasn't too hard to notice a difference. The idle was more refined... not necessarily quieter, just smoother overall. I liked it! But even if you can't tell the difference, I like it for the PCM's sake because what the PCM reads is more accurate and consistent.

 

So it can be done without removing the spider and turbo?

What all needs to be removed?

 

In Clay's instructions, turbo stays in... but yeah, it can be done and to be honest, it really wasn't that bad.

As to what needs to be removed, I have a 6637 and I also had done the CCV mod awhile back so that helped make it easier, but it's pretty much the same on a stock truck. You just have to undo the hose clamp at the air box and disconnect the hose from the doghouse on the valve cover. Keep in mind that the hose on the doghouse is a crimp clamp and you'll have to replace it with worm clamp when you put it back together. You can also take the doghouse off altogether, but keep in mind that if you don't change the O-rings out when you take it out, you might have leaks when you put it all back together (I did).

But anyways, here's how I did it:





Not in the picture, but the filter came out with all this:

 

dude, this is a great write up. first one ive seen with arrows like that. i love that. looks great man

 

Thanks, Phil!

 

Any X over line is just a leak you installed... Period.

Looks very similar to ITP/Strictlys one, not that there is another way to make a x over line.

 

Very Nice write up!!!!

 

I've had two different xover lines and both leaked at the attachment point. Replaced orings, made sure things were snug but no fix. Took it off reinstalled the factory plugs and no more leak.

 

Reps on the write up and pics of the HPX install!