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2001 7.3L oil pan problem...

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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #1  
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2001 7.3L oil pan problem...

Is it necessary to pull the engine to replace the oil pan. It is leaking and has been repaired to no avail. Thanks for the input. MTG
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 01:59 PM
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Yes it is, I just completed this task a week or so ago..
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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Oil pan...

That's what I was afraid of. It looks to be a complicated work process. Did you do your own or have it done? If you don't mind. What did it cost you if you had it done? Thanks for the help. MTG
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 04:28 PM
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where is it leaking at? Mine was leaking at the part where the dipstick goes into the pan, and I fixed it with some Ultra gray silicone. Working like a charm
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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Does somebody like Mag Hytek make a oil pan. I have one of there diff covers and it is nice.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 05:51 PM
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I just found a dent and crack on the bottom of my oil pan, looks like the someone before me tried to fix it with some JB Weld. Not sure what Im going to do, it started leaking about a month ago.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 06:05 PM
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Oil pan leak...

I was in afront end collision with a blasted cow. The entire front end and front engine plate was damaged. When it was repaired the collision shop merely bent the pan down instead of removing it and cracked the lip on both sides near the back of the engine. I took it back for a repair. The repair has lasted 3 yrs. The repair consisted of resealing with silicone sealant. It now has started leaking again. MTG
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by NCPirate
I just found a dent and crack on the bottom of my oil pan, looks like the someone before me tried to fix it with some JB Weld. Not sure what Im going to do, it started leaking about a month ago.
if youre handy you can pull the motor by yourself in about 3.5-4 hours......smack a new pan on there and put it back in the truck......

Originally Posted by MTGunner
I was in afront end collision with a blasted cow. The entire front end and front engine plate was damaged. When it was repaired the collision shop merely bent the pan down instead of removing it and cracked the lip on both sides near the back of the engine. I took it back for a repair. The repair has lasted 3 yrs. The repair consisted of resealing with silicone sealant. It now has started leaking again. MTG
i would have that repair shops a$$! silicone sealant? WTF? dude youre gonna have to pull the engine and replace the pan. only way to do it.....if you have a hoist you can get a stand at harbor freight for 100 bucks.....a new pan is like 200.....yank that motor and replace it so its done right......

on a side note i love montana....would like to live there! where abouts in the state do you live?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MTGunner
That's what I was afraid of. It looks to be a complicated work process. Did you do your own or have it done? If you don't mind. What did it cost you if you had it done? Thanks for the help. MTG
Did it myself in my spare time over a period of 4 weeks. Get an OEM replacment, they are heavier gauge steel.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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I would second the OEM replacement oil pan also. While you are at that point, I would highly recommend getting the oil pan coated with an anti-rust product before installing it back onto your engine. I just Line-X'd my oil pan for $25. Whatever you do, DO NOT use any type of rattle can spray-on product. None of them hold up over time. Do it right once and forget it!

Drake
 
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DISLFVR
Did it myself in my spare time over a period of 4 weeks. Get an OEM replacment, they are heavier gauge steel.
I totally agree on the OEM pan. Riffraff just started carring them too. Riffraff Diesel: OEM Oil Pan
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 08:36 AM
  #12  
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Oil pan...

To all I thank you for your informative information. My home is Ronan, MT in the NW corner of the state. I spend my winters in SW New Mexico. I do not have the facilities to do the work down here. It is my hope that I can get my F250 home to do the work. Actually, I will have a shop in Pablo, MT do the work as they do great work. Not the same place that did the sealant. I will purchase an OEM replacement pan and have it coated with Line-X. A very good suggestion BTW. Thanks again. MTG
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #13  
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I just posted about this a few weeks ago. I did some reading on the net. Go to you tube and type 7.3 oil pan repair. Theres a nice fix on there imo. I did the clean very well and drained the oil, got it dry as a bone no oil coming out and applied the good stuuf all over it, to see if that would fix it. sure enuffff it stoped it, if you didnt want to go the route of pulling the motor and give u a few years are so on it. I know its not the right way, but we have 5 trucks with this problem and decied to try this for a while to see if it worked, and it has so far!
 
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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7.3 Ford Rusted Oil Pan Repair Kit (1of 2) - YouTube


This is another very nice fix as well! Enjoy

P.S. There are 2 parts to the vid!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 11:06 PM
  #15  
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that's the most ridiculous idea ive seen!! that is just a temporary fix! what happens when the oil pan starts to fall apart from the inside and gets into the crank case and takes out the bottom end bearings?? I hope nobody does this fix!!
 
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