Vin # Decode and Pics
Pics:






Is there a way to remove the bottom shelf on this intake (valley pan) without grinding the rivets? There is a lot of small debris and stuff down there I would like to get out before bead blasting it any further.
F100/350 390's not available w/an optional 4V until 1974 (VIN engine code M).
The rear axle has a tag WEV-R1 5MB 3.00 9 711A. Is this rear axle from an early 70's van?
Number 8 cylinder is down to 90 psi compression (cold). Cylinders 2,4,and 6 are all over 150 psi. Cylinders 1,3,5,and 7 are 139 to 135 psi. Rebuild time! I pulled the cylinder head and used a vernier caliper to measure the bore (4.047") and stroke (3.789") = 390 C.I. The exhaust valves are worn into the unhardened exhaust seats. But, the cylinders look like they'll clean up with a .030 rebore. Pictures coming soon. Thanks!
If I used the charts right, the truck should be F100 2WD, 352 2V, San Jose California, assembled April of 1966.
The door tag also gives the following 115" wheel base / Color H (Sahara Beige aka Light Beige) / Body 481 / Trans A 3
speed manual / Axle A9.But, I'm still confused about the original transmission and rear axle. I was hoping for some help.
The transmission in the truck is a 4 speed manual with reverse down towards the seat (NP435

The rear axle has a tag WEV-R1 5MB 3.00 9 711A. Is this rear axle from an early 70's van?
1973/74 E200 (5 lug 5.50" bolt circle wheels) / 1975/79 E150 / 5MB = Assembled the 2nd week (B) of December (M), 1975 (5).
481: 4 = Medium Beige Crush Vinyl & Medium Beige Wicker Pattern Vinyl / 81 = 81A Standard Cab.
(sigh) Ford confusion: 
1966/79: A = New Process 435 4 speed Manual Transmission.
A TRANS code thru 1962: Ford 3 speed manual without 1st gear syncromesh.
A TRANS code used 1963/65: Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncromesh.
The A code for this trans was replaced by TRANS code C in 1966, used thru 1986.
TRANS code N = 1965 NP435.
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A9: Dana 60.3 Rear Axle (optional) / 3.54-1 / Limited Slip / 3,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.
The Dana 60.3 died (It's not a Dana 60!), parts were (and still are) hard to find, so a PO swapped in an Econoline 9 inch.
3.00-1 ratio will make that NP's granny 1st gear more like a great granny 1st gear.
engine 3: LAFD #3?
Pics:






Is there a way to remove the bottom shelf on this intake (valley pan) without grinding the rivets? There is a lot of small debris and stuff down there I would like to get out before bead blasting it any further.
In order to get those rivets out, use a hack saw and cut a slot in the top and use a LARGE/WIDE blade screw driver. Stick the screw driver in the slot and hit it with a hammer first. Would also help to use some penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, drill a hole and use an easy-out. The rivets have a twisted shaft, so when they hammer them in, they swist. I usually tap em after they are removed and use small bolts when replacing. Some guys just hammer the rivets back in but I never liked that idea. Didn't want to take the chance of them falling out. ;o(
I will have to give that a shot so I can get this cleaned up. Sounds like a great intake for torque then, perfect for a work truck that grunts. Thanks again for info on the rivets.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts


What have you determined on that Holley carb of yours?
If you're still wondering what it is, we'd need to know the LIST number off of it.
The list number for most performance and factory 2 and 4 barrel carburetors will be found stamped into the upper right hand corner of the airhorn or sometimes called the choke tower. This number is used to identify the carburetor and also used when needing service parts or renew kits.
Look here: Locating Holley Carb List Number
Determine the LIST # and come back & tell us what it is....
BarnieTrk
Thanks for the kind words, I hope in 4-5 years to put a southern body on it and do it up properly. For now its still a work truck.
I actually haven't done a thing other than cover the carb & intake. Been too busy getting the electric done in the barn before winter (you know the miss' doesn't like busting frozen water out of the horse buckets!) and hopefully getting the plow painted to roll snow easier. Sooner or later I will get to it though and post more info!
Every Winter, from about 7yrs old 'til I was 18yrs old, I broke ice out of horse watering buckets.
Fortex Corner Bucket, 5 gal. Capacity, Black - 2171297 | Tractor Supply Company
These aren't cheap, but they make things ice bustin' much easier. Just toss them up in the air and when they hit the ground, the ice shatters out of them! Collect them and refill them with water.

BarnieTrk
For 66250, closeup of the wheels in case you are trying to track down a brand:

Carb List# and few other markings:



Off to paint the plow, have a good day everyone.






