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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Vin # Decode and Pics

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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #16  
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Picked up some items for free over the weekend for the truck. The truck has a 2bbl on it currently which is a little annoying at times until it warms up. I figure if it I can clean up this intake, which from the numbers appears to be a 352 / 390 / 428 4bbl. Then possibly go through this holley which I am unsure as to what it is, and learn a little bit about carbs (I've always had fuel injected vehicles). I hope I can couple them together and make something a little easier to start with a more reliable choke for winter!

Pics:







Is there a way to remove the bottom shelf on this intake (valley pan) without grinding the rivets? There is a lot of small debris and stuff down there I would like to get out before bead blasting it any further.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #17  
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4V intake manifold is from a 1966 Ford/Merc Passenger Car: 390 / 410 Mercury Parklane only / 428.

F100/350 390's not available w/an optional 4V until 1974 (VIN engine code M).
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #18  
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engine 3
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66' Shortbed VIN

Good Morning! Just registered. This site is great! I have a 66' f100 shortbed. (F10YR845788) Numbersdummy's VIN Decoder was really helpful. If I used the charts right, the truck should be f100, 352 2V, San Jose California, assembled April of 1966. The door tag also gives the following 115" wheel base, Color H (light Beige), Body 481, Trans A 3 speed manual, Rear Axle A9 ?, Certified Net H.P. 172 @ 4000 rpm. DSO 71 Los Angeles District Sales Office. But, I'm Still confused about the original transmission and rear axle. I was hoping for some help. The transmission in the truck is a 4 speed manual with reverse down towards the seat (NP435?).
The rear axle has a tag WEV-R1 5MB 3.00 9 711A. Is this rear axle from an early 70's van?
Number 8 cylinder is down to 90 psi compression (cold). Cylinders 2,4,and 6 are all over 150 psi. Cylinders 1,3,5,and 7 are 139 to 135 psi. Rebuild time! I pulled the cylinder head and used a vernier caliper to measure the bore (4.047") and stroke (3.789") = 390 C.I. The exhaust valves are worn into the unhardened exhaust seats. But, the cylinders look like they'll clean up with a .030 rebore. Pictures coming soon. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 03:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by engine 3
Good Morning! Just registered. This site is great! I have a 66' F100 shortbed. (F10YR845788).

If I used the charts right, the truck should be F100 2WD, 352 2V, San Jose California, assembled April of 1966.

The door tag also gives the following 115" wheel base / Color H (Sahara Beige aka Light Beige) / Body 481 / Trans A 3 speed manual / Axle A9.

But, I'm still confused about the original transmission and rear axle. I was hoping for some help.

The transmission in the truck is a 4 speed manual with reverse down towards the seat (NP435 ) = TRANS code A

The rear axle has a tag WEV-R1 5MB 3.00 9 711A. Is this rear axle from an early 70's van?
1973/74 E200 (5 lug 5.50" bolt circle wheels) / 1975/79 E150 / 5MB = Assembled the 2nd week (B) of December (M), 1975 (5).
Welcome to FTE

481: 4 = Medium Beige Crush Vinyl & Medium Beige Wicker Pattern Vinyl / 81 = 81A Standard Cab.

(sigh) Ford confusion:

1966/79: A = New Process 435 4 speed Manual Transmission.

A TRANS code thru 1962: Ford 3 speed manual without 1st gear syncromesh.

A TRANS code used 1963/65: Ford type 3.03 3 speed manual all syncromesh.

The A code for this trans was replaced by TRANS code C in 1966, used thru 1986.

TRANS code N = 1965 NP435.
-----------------------------
A9: Dana 60.3 Rear Axle (optional) / 3.54-1 / Limited Slip / 3,300 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity.

The Dana 60.3 died (It's not a Dana 60!), parts were (and still are) hard to find, so a PO swapped in an Econoline 9 inch.

3.00-1 ratio will make that NP's granny 1st gear more like a great granny 1st gear.

engine 3: LAFD #3?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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From: colbert washington
Originally Posted by DCClark
Picked up some items for free over the weekend for the truck. The truck has a 2bbl on it currently which is a little annoying at times until it warms up. I figure if it I can clean up this intake, which from the numbers appears to be a 352 / 390 / 428 4bbl. Then possibly go through this holley which I am unsure as to what it is, and learn a little bit about carbs (I've always had fuel injected vehicles). I hope I can couple them together and make something a little easier to start with a more reliable choke for winter!

Pics:







Is there a way to remove the bottom shelf on this intake (valley pan) without grinding the rivets? There is a lot of small debris and stuff down there I would like to get out before bead blasting it any further.
Have it hot tanked and they will able to hi pressure wash the gunk out of that pan. Probably wont have to have it blasted after the hot tank just paint.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #21  
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S code manifolds. I had those same manifolds on 3 1967 motors I pulled from Muraurder police cars that went up for aution some yrs back. The runners are small so they would get good idle and a heck of a lot of torque off the line and still have great mid range. Good for motors that are in long time service.

In order to get those rivets out, use a hack saw and cut a slot in the top and use a LARGE/WIDE blade screw driver. Stick the screw driver in the slot and hit it with a hammer first. Would also help to use some penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, drill a hole and use an easy-out. The rivets have a twisted shaft, so when they hammer them in, they swist. I usually tap em after they are removed and use small bolts when replacing. Some guys just hammer the rivets back in but I never liked that idea. Didn't want to take the chance of them falling out. ;o(
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:45 PM
  #22  
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Thanks Rider!

I will have to give that a shot so I can get this cleaned up. Sounds like a great intake for torque then, perfect for a work truck that grunts. Thanks again for info on the rivets.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #23  
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Thanks for the help decoding the VIN. This will really help me the correct parts.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:06 AM
  #24  
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Last weekend was just about 70 here in PA so it was time for a quick painting before winter to help protect what is left of the rusted body on the 66.

Before:


After:


 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #25  
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Where did you get those wheels. Think they would look good on my 66 f250 2wd.
thanks Joe.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #26  
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Sorry I have no information on them, as they came on the truck when we purchased it about 12-15 years ago. It had 31" street tires back then.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 04:02 PM
  #27  
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SWEET 4X4 SLICK, DCC!!

What have you determined on that Holley carb of yours?

If you're still wondering what it is, we'd need to know the LIST number off of it.

The list number for most performance and factory 2 and 4 barrel carburetors will be found stamped into the upper right hand corner of the airhorn or sometimes called the choke tower. This number is used to identify the carburetor and also used when needing service parts or renew kits.

Look here: Locating Holley Carb List Number

Determine the LIST # and come back & tell us what it is....

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 05:54 PM
  #28  
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BarnieTrk,

Thanks for the kind words, I hope in 4-5 years to put a southern body on it and do it up properly. For now its still a work truck.

I actually haven't done a thing other than cover the carb & intake. Been too busy getting the electric done in the barn before winter (you know the miss' doesn't like busting frozen water out of the horse buckets!) and hopefully getting the plow painted to roll snow easier. Sooner or later I will get to it though and post more info!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DCClark
Been too busy getting the electric done in the barn before winter (you know the miss' doesn't like busting frozen water out of the horse buckets!) and hopefully getting the plow painted to roll snow easier. Sooner or later I will get to it though and post more info!
DCC,
Every Winter, from about 7yrs old 'til I was 18yrs old, I broke ice out of horse watering buckets.

Fortex Corner Bucket, 5 gal. Capacity, Black - 2171297 | Tractor Supply Company

These aren't cheap, but they make things ice bustin' much easier. Just toss them up in the air and when they hit the ground, the ice shatters out of them! Collect them and refill them with water.

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #30  
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We had the same buckets at the old barn, but we upgraded to the fancy heated buckets.



For 66250, closeup of the wheels in case you are trying to track down a brand:


Carb List# and few other markings:






Off to paint the plow, have a good day everyone.
 
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