Hello all.

I just bought a 1969 Ford F250.

I know very little about cars let alone trucks so I've come here to learn what I can. Naturally I am googling things as I go along but it has been difficult to sort through all of the BS that comes up in the results.

I'm hoping some people here can point me to the right threads to get me started.

Can anyone tell me about common problems with this truck that I should check for? Is there a thread for that? How do I figure out the engine type and displacement? I want to make this truck as nice as possible with my limited budget. Can anyone make suggestions on what to start with?

Thanks

 

Check your tires for wear/uneven wear. Check all your hoses make sure there in good shape, batttery cables the terminals and spark plug wires. Look at your dist cap and rotor replace as needed. Make sure your belts are in good shape, look for dry cracked belts replace as needed. See if your spark plugs are in good shape, get new if needed or gap and clean them. Check oil replace filter and oil if needed. Flush radatior and fill with new anti freeze unless you knew it's fresh.

Search the forum on how to do the timing and tune carb if you don't know how. Once all the above things are done I would do both the timing and carb adjustment.

Just read the forum and you can learn all on your own, good luck!

 

Welcome to the forums.

There are places to ID motors, plus using your VIN you can determine many details of your truck.

Post a few pictures and we'll try to head you in the right direction.

 

Start here: Decoding Your 1969 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
then read. read, read

 

Thank you for the quick replies. I checked the tires and noticed that the rear tires are bigger than the front tires. Is there any benefit to this? I noticed when I break the truck pulls a little to the left. Is that an indication of bad breaks on the right side? The steering wheel has a few inches of play in it. Is that an alignment issue or something else?

I checked the VIN tag. Is that something I can post a picture of or is that something that people could use online for malicious intent?

According to the VIN tag I have a Ford F-250 2WD.
The engine is a 360 cid, 8-cyl. What does "cid" stand for? Google says "Cubic inches of displacement." How does that rate compared to the other engines available for 5th gen F series trucks? 390 is better right?

It was made in Michigan. The link you sent me says the last 6 digits are the consecutive unit numbers. I only have 4 characters remaining on my vin number...

131" wheel base, pure white paint job, F254 model #, conventional cab, automatic transmission, 6900 lbs, 175hp at 4000 rpm.

So I was kinda surprised it didn't have more HP. I thought this thing was supposed to be some kinda beast. It sure sounds like one.

 

First thing I would recommend is to replace all the bushings with polyurethane bushings. Radius arm bushings and rear leaf spring bushings mainly. It really helps them ride and drive nice. It's a chore though!

 

No benefit with tires being different size in fact if you have two different sizes on same axle it can cause problems. Some people use to put smaller tires on the front for looks. Personally I choose a tire size you like and go with that all the way around. Check your tires for uneven wear, if they are this could be a sign you need an alinement. Before you get the alinement check your from front end for signs of wear. Get a friend, jack up the front end and have him turn the wheel will you check for play in any of the componets in the steering. Any problems here should be addressed before an alinement is done.

Play in the steering could be your rag joint, open the hood and follow the steering arm till you see a joint connector. You should see at the connector a rubber like piece, this is your rag joint. If it is bad it should be replaced. Do a search for rag joint and you should get alot of info.

Like said before radius bushings should be replace if bad. If they need to be replaced do this this also before an alinement is done.

 

The 360 is the little bro of the 390...390 has more ump and top end, but the 360 has more grunt and low-end torque. Both are good engines. When I start fresh with a new/used vehicle I do a basic tune up (points/plugs/condensor), fresh tank of gas with a can of Seafoam added, fresh oil/filter, air filter, check plug wires, service the tranny and differential (add or change lube), check brake pads/shoes (replace if needed), check brake fluid, PS fluid, all hoses and belts (replace anything old and cracked), and flush and refill the radiator. 265X75X16 or 235X85X16 modern tires are a close match to the stock F250 tires of the day.

 

Back in those days, you didn't get the "big" power they list in todays new trucks. You'll be plenty impressed with the "torque"(seat of the pants feel) of that 360. They weren't meant to be race cars back then, they were built to haul stuff.

Like mentioned, tire sizes is personal taste. They all came with the same size, but many will change to their liking.

If it pulls to one side while braking, then you need to start checking the front brakes. One may be adjusted looser then the other(causing it to pull to one side when you push on the pedal). You could also have a leaking wheel cylinder which will cause the brake pads to get wet and not work as well. This will need to be fixed as it will continue to leak until you are out of fluid(which means out of brakes). You need to inspect the RIGHT wheel as that one is the faulty one presently. Look for wet spot on the inside of the tire/rim(from leaking brake fluid). Jack the front end up and spin the tires. You should just feel the brakes drag as you spin the tire with your hand. If you don't feel/hear the drag, then you need to adjust them tighter. Best bet is either get a manual or find someone who is a competent mechanic.

Yes, check the rag joint on the steering column. That is a very typical issue with these trucks.

 

Thank you everyone for your replies. I feel like I have some direction now. Now to just find time in my 60hr work week to do this stuff!

I woke up this morning to discover the battery was dead. So I bought a new one.

One down ninety-nine to go!

 

Sir, When you get to work on the brakes be sure to replace both front flexable brake hoses as well as the rear one also. When checking the front end you will probably find the kingpins to need replacing, some of the slop in the steering wheel could also be adjusted with the steering box , but as was already said look at all of the joints in the steering / suspension. Kenny Nunez, Original owner 68 Ranger

 

OK I have a really stupid question. I just bought this battery and I can't find the hood release latch. Owner opened the hood for me and I didn't pay attention...

 

It's just to the right of the centerline of the hood...put your hand palm up to the right of centerline, between the hood bottom and top of grille...then pull out towards you with your fingers.

 

Are you saying there is no hood release **** to pull inside the cab?!?!?!

Apparently not! I'm in! I was trying so hard to locate the cable under the dash for the hood release LOL... oh the shame :P

So I popped out the old battery put in the new one and the engine still won't turn over. All of the lights come on. Some times when I turn the key I hear a click come from the engine but that's it. Any toughts? Starter solenoid?

Makes me wonder if someone stole something out of engine.

 

These are old vehicles so they were built way before the time for hood releases from inside. Try this: take a look at the FORD across the hood, think of the R for release. It might also help to push down on the hood to help release it, and it also has a secondary catch as a safety to keep it from flying up in your face if it came loose.