What is this pump called ?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 415
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From: Long Island - NY
What is this pump called ?
Anyone know a part # for this pump ?
I think I've narrowed down the reason for my AC/heat blowing through the defrost when reaching 50pmh or getting into the high rpms resulting from the vacuum pump not working. I checked and replaced the lines to the hubs, as well as capped them and still it flips from vents to defrost on it's own. I also checked the lines going to the back of the 3 dial on/off/selector etc.. and everything looks snug.
At this point I believe the pump has simply gone south. Does anyone have the part # for this or any info ? I don't see much listed for V10's, and most threads refer to the diesel. Any ideas or advice ?
Thanks !
I think I've narrowed down the reason for my AC/heat blowing through the defrost when reaching 50pmh or getting into the high rpms resulting from the vacuum pump not working. I checked and replaced the lines to the hubs, as well as capped them and still it flips from vents to defrost on it's own. I also checked the lines going to the back of the 3 dial on/off/selector etc.. and everything looks snug.
At this point I believe the pump has simply gone south. Does anyone have the part # for this or any info ? I don't see much listed for V10's, and most threads refer to the diesel. Any ideas or advice ?
Thanks !
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
This sounds like a bad vacuum canister. It stores spare vacuum for the times when the V10 is not putting out enough vacuum, like under heavy load or high rev.
It is about a $35 part from the dealer and a quick item to change. It's the large oval shaped black box behind the battery. Usually the failure is in the check valve, which is internal to the vacuum canister and can not be serviced.
I researched this and believe it was my issue too. I've replaced the vacuum canister but have not towed with it under load to confirm this fixes the problem for sure. My hub lines are capped because I have manual hubs installed.
Do a little searching here, on the F-250 and V10 forums and you should find supporting info similar to what I'm sayin'. I didn't save the thread link for reference.
It is about a $35 part from the dealer and a quick item to change. It's the large oval shaped black box behind the battery. Usually the failure is in the check valve, which is internal to the vacuum canister and can not be serviced.
I researched this and believe it was my issue too. I've replaced the vacuum canister but have not towed with it under load to confirm this fixes the problem for sure. My hub lines are capped because I have manual hubs installed.
Do a little searching here, on the F-250 and V10 forums and you should find supporting info similar to what I'm sayin'. I didn't save the thread link for reference.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Long Island - NY
Yeah - that's what I thought.. but what is the device on the passenger side fender wall under the hood that the red and black hose ( which one leads to the hubs after the T ) called then ? Doesn't that create/pull the vacuum ?
I just wish I didn't have to leave my heater and ac on defrost all the time
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
The solenoid controls a vacuum pulse out to the hubs to tell them if they should engage or disengage. In is a certain pulse and pull and out is a different order. It don't think it creates vacuum on it's own, it controls the vacuum release to create the pulses.
Last edited by jasonodsky; Jan 20, 2012 at 01:07 PM. Reason: clarify how the solenoid works.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Long Island - NY
ahh, I see. Thanks for the clarifiaction guys. So i'm thinking then it may be like you mentioned before - the canister, since the solenoid seems to function, the canister may be the culprit.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,407
Likes: 155
From: Milwaukee, WI
Make sure the lines to the canister are all good with no leaks. That will rule out the lines being the failure point...plus they are alot cheaper to replace.
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