Wheel bearing
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Wheel bearing
So far my truck has a love hate relationship. I love it, but am hating it right now because it keeps breaking down. Started off a broken clutch arm. Then came bad/corroted wiring. Then the alternator went bad. Then my radiator went bad. Now tonight i was driving along and heard what sounded like me dragging a stick under the truck. Didnt think anything of it because i was in a field earlier. About a block down the road the front wheel locks up on me. So i shut it off, grabbed the flashlight and jumped under the truck. No visible damage. I figured i had a collapsed brake line which was making the brake stick. NOPE! Went to refire the truck to see if it would move and the damn solenoid is bad now!! So after tapping on that it started and i was able to get the truck moving. So i limped it home and noticed my wheel was leaning inwards BADLY. I jacked it up and holy smokes i dont think i have a wheel bearing left. So tomorow, in the 25 degree weather i get to tear into the front end and replace a wheel bearing and probably bearing races im assuming. Wish me luck!
/Done venting
/Done venting
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
Likes: 2,756
From: Virginia
That's what happens when a vehicle is driven till it just won't go anymore with no maintenance. You are doing all the maintenance now, all at one time. Don't worry, it will finally clear up for awhile.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
What year/model of truck?
You're not alone, I'm sure we've all had problems.
On the '86 I got, I decided to reuse all the electrical components on the engine when it was re-done. Later I found out the alternator was charging, but just barely, starter was pulling massive amperage killing the battery with in seconds, and had to replace a battery.
On my '83 I had, I was towing a load down the highway and started to smell what was like burning brake pads. Yep, caliper stuck and was burning up the pad. Limped it to a parts store and borrowed tools and a jack from a customer and had to replace it in the parking lot. I was quite a ways from home. I'll never get calipers from Autozone again.
Again with the '83, towing at night, the dimmer switch went up in smoke and lost headlights. Luckily there was a truck stop just ahead and had to cut and splice wires to bypass what was left of the switch. By the way, that little switch will fill a cab with smoke rather quickly.
You're not alone, I'm sure we've all had problems.
On the '86 I got, I decided to reuse all the electrical components on the engine when it was re-done. Later I found out the alternator was charging, but just barely, starter was pulling massive amperage killing the battery with in seconds, and had to replace a battery.
On my '83 I had, I was towing a load down the highway and started to smell what was like burning brake pads. Yep, caliper stuck and was burning up the pad. Limped it to a parts store and borrowed tools and a jack from a customer and had to replace it in the parking lot. I was quite a ways from home. I'll never get calipers from Autozone again.
Again with the '83, towing at night, the dimmer switch went up in smoke and lost headlights. Luckily there was a truck stop just ahead and had to cut and splice wires to bypass what was left of the switch. By the way, that little switch will fill a cab with smoke rather quickly.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2012
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Yep my dad told me the same thing. Whoever had the truck didnt do proper maintenance on it and now im stuck fixing everything. Ohwell i love my truck. The wheel bearing fix is gonna cost a bit more than just inner and out bearings a nd a seal. My lockout came out in pieces broken so now i need a new one of those. I need all of the guts for a stock lockout if someone has one laying around let me know a price.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,025
Likes: 2,756
From: Virginia
You can get a new pair of lockouts from the store. If you are in no hurry you might find a deal at rockauto or ebay/Amazon. A long time ago I paid $60 a pair for them.
Also make sure you put the wheel bearing assembly locknuts back together correctly. Here's a picture if you have this style locknut.
Also make sure you put the wheel bearing assembly locknuts back together correctly. Here's a picture if you have this style locknut.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Welcome to FTE! Most of us have had similar experiences to yours - and especially those who have "rescued" a truck from a field or backyard. The '82 I rescued stranded me many times for fuel system problems, once for alternator, and twice for the cooling system. I finally got it sorted, and then sold it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
My 2003 Ford Ranger has(had) pretty severe transmission issues due to an ignorant transmission technician, it has gone through 3 different IAC valves, numerous vacuum hoses were dry rotted, the Camshaft Synchronizer (distributor) just went out, and my rear leaf springs arch upwards when I jack the rear of the truck up. Oh yea, the truck only has 54,000 miles on it.
So don't feel bad, new trucks with low miles can be absolute pains as well.
So don't feel bad, new trucks with low miles can be absolute pains as well.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Dang Brent, when it rains it pours. Be sure to do the other side of the front end as well while your doing bearings. You may be able to save those if they havent been neglected too much. However, if one side locked up then the other is right behind it.
Have you gone through all of the filters and fluid yet? If not better get on that before you lose a rear end or a T case. When servicing the rear ends look for the "L" or "LS" on the tag that signifies limited slip. You dont want to forget the friction modifier if it is limited slip or it will frag the clutch packs and possibly the entire rear end.
Good luck Brent!
Have you gone through all of the filters and fluid yet? If not better get on that before you lose a rear end or a T case. When servicing the rear ends look for the "L" or "LS" on the tag that signifies limited slip. You dont want to forget the friction modifier if it is limited slip or it will frag the clutch packs and possibly the entire rear end.
Good luck Brent!
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