vaccume pump question
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vaccume pump question
My hubs are leaking and I dont care. My feet are cold and I care, my fingers work so I can lock in the hubs. I installed a new pump after I verifiyed it was being told to turn on and it wasnt. I bypassed the hubs. Still on defrost. I bypassed the resivoir plugging pump directly into the line to the blend door. PRESTO all the settings work Im happy, shut the hood. This morning, defrost only pump will not run. I havent checked the fuse because I left my book out in the rain and well ya its kinda funny but not at the moment. I looked up the manual on line and didnt see a fuse location for the pump unless its included with the high current one under esof? Will bypassing the resivior hurt anything? Did I fry the pump? it shut off as soon as the blend doors moved. 
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Whittier, CA
The vacuum pump motor is fed from fuse 27. Same as ESOF. If your transfer case is shifting, then the fuse is good. Wire color is LTBLU/PNK.
It is a bad idea to bypass the vacuum resevoir. Without it your vacuum pump will cycle on/off excessively. I can't see it would blow the motor that fast, but maybe. You should test the motor again, and block the vacuum inlet with your finger. Let the pump run with an open port, and if it will, then block the port with your finger and it should shut off. Then connect to the resevoir and do the same test to check for leaks. Block off the hubs at the point where those lines only connect.
You could have a leak under the dash too.
It is a bad idea to bypass the vacuum resevoir. Without it your vacuum pump will cycle on/off excessively. I can't see it would blow the motor that fast, but maybe. You should test the motor again, and block the vacuum inlet with your finger. Let the pump run with an open port, and if it will, then block the port with your finger and it should shut off. Then connect to the resevoir and do the same test to check for leaks. Block off the hubs at the point where those lines only connect.
You could have a leak under the dash too.
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From: Spring,Tx
I just went throught the broken vac line for 4 wheel,,even with that my heat and ac worked normal...Your vac line should tee off of the resivoir and go to the solenoid valve right next to it..That should stop vacuum from going to your hubs if you are in two wheel drive. Unless that solenoid valve is leaking..You could remove inlet line from res at solenoid..
You probably have another vacuum leak on the HVAC side.
Do you have the electronic HVAC or manual...I believe there is a manifold above and behind the glovebox..or that could be on my Explorer,,i don't remember.
The $35.00 Mighty-Vac is a wonderful tool for these sort of issues...You can trace your lines and test them.
You probably have another vacuum leak on the HVAC side.
Do you have the electronic HVAC or manual...I believe there is a manifold above and behind the glovebox..or that could be on my Explorer,,i don't remember.
The $35.00 Mighty-Vac is a wonderful tool for these sort of issues...You can trace your lines and test them.
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Replaced pump again. No blend door action. Disonected the sillinoid, plugged the line going to the hubs just after the resivior. Still only works briefly when you engage the 4x4 switch. (I dont understand why). I dropped the glove box and wedged a pop bottle lid under the rod that apparently goes to the blend doors and has a diaphram on the upperside of it. I now until its not 10 deg out will live with 50/50 feet and defrost. I disconected the power to the pump so its not running all the time. I will get a vaccume tester this week. Why would it still briefly switch settings off the 4x4 switch with the sillinoid unplugged?
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