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I will be putting a lightly upgraded 7.3 turbo w/ E40D in my old truck. My question is what gauges are most important? I want the info I need without having my dash look like that of a 747. For instance, do I really need water temp if I have a pyro? Here is a list of all the gauges I could find:
Speed
Tach
Volt
Ammeter
Water temp
Oil temp
Oil pressure
Tranny temp
Pyro
Boost
Fuel Level
Fuel Pressure
Obviously things like speed and fuel level are a must, but I want to know what you would choose and why. Thanks for your input!
Most important ones, and for longevity of the machine, IMO:
- Water Temp
- Oil Pressure
- Trans temp (if automatic)
- Pyro
- Volts (if you have room left)
Ofcourse other gauges like fuel/speed etc are a must.
One thing I'd do. Get a real volt gauge, and leave it under the hood in the engine bay. At least, if you detect a possible problem, pop the hood and have a look. If not, I can do without, but it's nice to have one somewhere, and no taking up room on the dash.
I like the idea of the voltmeter in the engine compartment if no room inside, Plus an idiot light will let you know if the alternator is not charging. Since you have auto the tach is not really as needed; for that matter a tach is just convenience once you get to know the sound it is unnecessary. You could also do the oil pressure gage in engine compartment and use an idiot light for low pressure in the cab also if needing room.
Assuming you will have the std gages as used in the F-(1 to 8) style dash. They typically have the large speedo and then room for four additional gages. The four I think would be best for you would be: fuel level (can read two tanks if you switch the sender input), water temp, trans temp (you have auto), pyro. Then have voltmeter and oil pressure inside engine compartment. The F-(1 to 8) also have the pretty big header panel above the windshield. You might consider to add some gages up there that you do not look at as often if you want as much information as possible. Such as the oil press, voltmeter, boost, tach, oil temp, etc. The header panel would keep them out of normal view, but still can see them inside the cab. Also results in spending more money on gages.............
I think rather than having a voltmeter under the hood, I'd rather carry a DVOM in the glove box, that way instead of looking at the one under the hood if you suspect a problem you check it with your meter and could use the meter to diagnose any other problems you have with lights, radio etc.
Awesome ideas! I think putting the lesser used gauges above the windshield is gold, and that way the styles wouldn't have to match. I was thinking about running 2 tanks in the truck since I have 2 at my disposal. How would the switch over/fuel level reading work? Also I would need to find 2 filler tube locations...
Awesome ideas! I think putting the lesser used gauges above the windshield is gold, and that way the styles wouldn't have to match. I was thinking about running 2 tanks in the truck since I have 2 at my disposal. How would the switch over/fuel level reading work? Also I would need to find 2 filler tube locations...
The fuel switching is simple, just get a SPDT (single pole, double throw)switch so when you switch tanks, just flip the switch. Put the two tank sender wires respectively on either side of the switch, and the common output wire to your gage. A fuel gage is just a resistance meter and you are simply switching what resistance it is reading.
I have this exactly on my COE with 2 tanks. I have a manual tank valve that only controls which tank it is drawing fuel from. The gage I just have the switch so with the switch toggle pointing left it reads left tank, and pointing right for the right tank. As my 6 year old nephew says, easy peasy
I would have an amp meter, after my experience today with a faulty alternator, know the voltage was not of much help if I had know idea if it was charging and at what rate.
What did you use? And why wouldn't you use them again?
If you don't mind me asking?
I purchased a set from Glowshift.
Their not bad - (and still work fine) I just don't like the fact that the Glowshift gauges are required to be illuminated - even during the day. Plus I would have liked gauges with white needles (like factory) and with smaller ranges...
i.e. My boost is rarely exceedes 10lb and the Glowshift gauge range is from 0-35 lbs.
Same for the Trans oil temp and EGT..
(plastic lens protectors were still on when I snapped this picture)
I just think for a few $$ more the ISSPRO EV series match the OEM a bit better (with a green backlit bulb)
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