I have 315/75R16 tires, for now I am cramming them on to the stock rims to save some coin. I plan to buy some better wheels very soon, probably some time in February. I was looking at the Dick Cepek DC-2 16x10... but I started looking more in depth and I found out that they weren't hub-centric. Then I called the number on the Dick Cepek website and they told me that there is no problem with them not being hub-centric but that only the the 16x8 wheels will fit.

So now I am not sure what I want to do. I really wanted a 10" wide wheel for a better wider stance, and furthermore I thought that hub-centric was a must? I looked at the wheels at 4wheelparts.com an it looks like pretty much all the 16" wheels with 4" or 4.5" backspacing are lug-centric.

FWIW I am sure my question has been answered before but I search around and all I mostly found posts about wheel spacers which I don't want.

So basically I have two questions:
Can someone recommend a good 16"x10" wheel with no more than 4.5" backspace? (I don't want any rubbing and I'd like to spend about $150 per wheel)
Does hub-centric only matter for wheel adapters and not for wheels?

 

Nothing?...

I think I've narrowed it down to two wheels, but I'm still open to ideas
Mickey Thompson Part 360170 - Classic II Alloy Wheel by Mickey Thompson
Moto Metal Part W/P9516987312 - MO951 Black Wheel by Moto Metal

I like the look of the Moto metal wheels better but the MKII wheels have less backspace, more offset and they are wider... so I like that.

 

I think you should pick wheels you like, but I will mention that I do not like Mickey Thompson Classic IIs. The long slope of the face makes them appear narrower than they are because there is less "shelf", in my opinion. I like a wheel that shows depth...and EVERYBODY has them.

As for the wheels being hub centric, it is not a must, as long as you torque your wheels properly and keep them torqued. If you alternate lugs properly and torque wheels down in a few torque intervals they will seat correctly and centered. If you do that, assuming your wheels are made properly, you will have no vibrations and the hub will still carry the weight because the wheel is properly and evenly clamped to the mounting surface. In my opinion, hub centric just makes it harder to not have the wheel centered. Don't forget to buy conical lug nuts for new lug centric wheels.

 

It is not exactly looks that are most important to me. I want the widest stance and no possible rubbing on the leafs. I was hoping that someone would chime in with some personal experience with some 16x10 wheels and 315/75R16 tires. I saw some people running the Weld wheels and those looked OK but they are not available anymore.

 

njneer has 315s on 16x10s, talk to him. He has about the same amount of lift I do (~4 front, ~3 rear), and I don't believe he has any rubbing on the inner fenders, not sure about the leaves. However, the rubbing on the leaves will not change with lift height, only with tire and wheel width. If you run a 315 on a 7 inch (stock) wheel, the sidewall will bulge and hit the leaf. If you run a 315 on a 10 inch wheel the sidewall is near vertical and will be less likely to rub on the leaf. And with your amount of lift I doubt it will rub the inner fender either. Order 16x10s and be done with it. A little rubbing on the leaves at full lock won't hurt anybody even if it happens (doubtful).

 

Thanks Skinsfan... do you think I could get away with 16x9? I like the looks of those Moto Metal 951's.

 

I couldn't tell you with any certainty whether 315s on 16x9s will clear the leaves. If your 315s are not yet on your stock wheels, you tell me the size of the tires that ARE on your wheels, and you have a tape measure, I can tell you what to measure to get a pretty good idea of what will clear.

 

I think these would look pretty cool on your rig.

 

Basically if your current tires are not rubbing on the leaves at full lock you have room to measure. The section width on metric tires (e.g. 315, 265, 285) is in mm. There are 25.4 mm in an inch. 315 minus your current tire width, then divided by 2, will give you an idea of how much closer to the leaf the sidewall will be. Then the width of the proposed wheel minus the width of your current wheel, divided by 2, will give you an idea of how much more room you'll be buying with new wheels and you'll have between the sidewall and the leaf. Then once you have your eye on that imaginary line where the new sidewall will be, based on tire width and wheel width, eyeball in the extra height of the tire and see if the corner of the tread and sidewall will hit the leaf. And remember, a 315 is roughly a 35, 285 a 33, 265 a 265 31.5. Going from a 33 to a 35 means the tread of the tire is only an inch farther from the center. Height difference divided by 2 tells you how far the tread will come from current tread.

I apologize if this is confusing.

 

Thanks Skinsfan,

That is not confusing at all. I already knew most of the details... I like the way you explained it. I don't know if the new tires are on the truck yet or not. My guy is working on it this week but I haven't checked up on it. I am going over there tomorrow.

 

Hey ComputerCowboy, Here is a comparison tool that I have used in the past that can give some useful numbers for comparison: Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com

 

^ Wow that is freakin' awesome, thanks!

The guy who has been working on my truck just called me and he says that he stuffed the 315's on the stock rims and they don't rub at all. There is a little bit of rub on the wheel-well rubber in the rear but somehow they don't rub on the springs. I don't even know how that is possible but it works.

Using the compare tool in the post above I have found that the 16x8, 16x9 or 16x10 wheels should work great. The Moto Metal 951's are at the top of my list right now.

I really don't understand how these wheels on the stock rims fit with no rub... and with no lift at all they barely rub on the back of the inside of the fender. I am thinking that these 315's are not as wide as others but are taller instead. The Kelly site lists them as being 34.8" tall where as all other 315's I looked at were 34.6" tall. My mechanic said he took it out and drove it over some bumps while turning and had no problems. When he adds the lift, whenever that gets here, we won't have to worry about the wheel-well at all.

One more thought, when we looked at the stock wheels/tires last week at full lock there was a little over an inch between the leafs and the tire... the 315's are 2" wider overall but that means they are only an inch closer to the leaf.

EDIT, I went over there and they do rub ever so slightly at full lock. I think they might not rub at full lock with the new springs because of the arch of the new springs. I'll have to wait and see. The rub is not bad at all, I can live with it until I get some better rims.