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My battery light came on and the alt gauge dropped down to 9 volts. I replaced the alternator and it worked for about 60 minutes. Battery light came back on and gauge dropped to 9 volts again.
All connections are good, grounds are good. There is a little black stuff coming out the front holes on the alternator.
Do you think the new part is bad too, or could something be killing it?
If you did not charge the battery before starting the truck you could have fried it. Or it just could be a bad alt. Ive had them fail in 20 sec bad rebuild.
Make sure all connections are cleaned, and connected to the right sources as well. A new Alternator shouldn't fail that fast..Something else is going on it sounds like.
Battery was fully charged, grounds are good. The last alternator was there for 8 years. I am hoping it was just another high quality unit from autozone. Everything I get from there takes at least 2 trips.
Also make sure your poles are right (+ to +). That would fry your diodes real quick, but I would vote it's the autozone quality. And if you have a 2G, might just want to go ahead and to the 3G swap.
-Mike
Battery was fully charged, grounds are good. The last alternator was there for 8 years. I am hoping it was just another high quality unit from autozone. Everything I get from there takes at least 2 trips.
Just two trips? Dang, you have better luck with their cheap junk than most...
Alternators job/function is to create power charge/maintain the charge of a battery/ies, having dead or severely low battery or batteries will not kill one unless of course it was junk to start with.
If it could/would do so? Heck I'd have killed the alt in my plow truck 100 times + by now easy. Screw up leave switching valves set to rear, power supply not routed through key.
Severely discharged batteries (like, 8v) can (I stress can) overload the regulator and kill the diodes (depending on the ratings(quality) of the diodes). Many people who need a jump aren't low enough to kill and alt. I see it more often an boats than cars.
-Mike