2005 died while driving
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Originally Posted by bismic
<table style="WIDTH: 710pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" width="947" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><colgroup><col style="WIDTH: 710pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 33472" width="947"></colgroup><tbody><tr style="HEIGHT: 21.1pt" height="28"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 21.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl25" height="28" width="947" align="left">PROCEDURE TO PRESSURE CHECK THE HPO SYSTEM W/ SHOP AIR (100 psig)</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947" align="left">See the video below starting about at 6:00 minutes.</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height="17"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl26" height="17" width="947" align="left">mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_3_256klarge.wmv</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 95.1pt" height="127"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 95.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="127" width="947" align="left">How willing are you to remove the FICM, turbo, intake manifold, and the EGR cooler to get to the HPOP cover and HPOP itself for troubleshooting? Otherwise:
One way to diagnose for an HPOP leak without a teardown: Remove the ICP sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover). You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting . You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the IPR, but only for 30 seconds or it will burn out. ALSO - be sure to remove the oil fill tube cap before applying shop air. This will prevent the possibility of overpressuring the crankcase.</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 108.7pt" height="145"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 108.7pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="145" width="947" align="left">You should be able to remove the IPR harness without removing the turbo.
Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!
To command the valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 120 seconds (30 seconds is more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 129.1pt; mso-height-source: userset" height="172"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 129.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="172" width="947" align="left">Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 54.35pt" height="72"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 54.35pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="72" width="947" align="left">There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. </td></tr></tbody></table>
(From the BISMIC spreadsheet)
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
This Is your Problem
you need a new IPR
when the screen blows out the IPR is Toast and wont work right basicaly draining all the HPO cuz it stuck open
I bet you could install a New IPR and you will be back on the road. I would do that and try it and if that dont work (pretty shure it will though) then do an air test on the HPO system.
My guess to why it blew out is you had some recent work on the HPOS or you have the wrong oil filter/oil filter cap. The IPR got junk on the screen couldnt drain and built incredible pressure and blew out and the IPR is now stuck OPEN.
you need a new IPR
when the screen blows out the IPR is Toast and wont work right basicaly draining all the HPO cuz it stuck open
I bet you could install a New IPR and you will be back on the road. I would do that and try it and if that dont work (pretty shure it will though) then do an air test on the HPO system.
My guess to why it blew out is you had some recent work on the HPOS or you have the wrong oil filter/oil filter cap. The IPR got junk on the screen couldnt drain and built incredible pressure and blew out and the IPR is now stuck OPEN.
Last August my STC O ring / fitting started to rear its ugly head by doing the Hot-No Start routine. Regardless you are going to need the IPR. Then perform the tests listed in the earlier post. After that I think you'll be all set.
Eric
Last edited by egregg57; Jan 12, 2012 at 02:22 AM. Reason: remove extraneous wording
I really doubt it that screen under the oil cooler is alot nbigger so it cant clog as easy






