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2005 died while driving

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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #1  
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2005 died while driving

the other night i was driving home doing about 60mph and truck just shut off i know a little bit about these 6.0 motors but not much i have checked with my scanner icp gets up to about 30psi at about 15 seconds cranking ipr% maxes out at 77% i took the ipr valve out and the screen was blowed out was going to do the air test but can not find a adaptor for the icp hole also while i had the ipr valve out tryed to jump it and could not hear any clicking when touching to the battery is there suppose to be any sound if its working does it sound like i am heading in the right direction or do i need to start looking at the hpop. does anybody know what size adaptor it takes for the icp hole?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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icp needs 500 psi for truck to fire. Try unplugging icp mand see if it'll start.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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i forgot to mention that i did try unplugging icp and it did not make any difference still no start
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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You would get more replies if you stated the year and any mods to the truck. I went to your profile and see that it's an 05. Could very well be the stc fitting. Common on 05's.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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it is an 05 ccsb 4x4 bone stock from one end to the other. i have seen a lot about the stc fitting 69cj do you know about the fitting size for the icp port for a air leak test.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Mine did that awhile back. Ford mechanic almost gauranteed it was the STC fitting. But upon further inspection, it turned out one of the injectors blew an o-ring. $1300 later I was up and running.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fd316
it is an 05 ccsb 4x4 bone stock from one end to the other. i have seen a lot about the stc fitting 69cj do you know about the fitting size for the icp port for a air leak test.
No I don't, luckily I'm under warranty for 4 more years. One of the techs or more informed guys may chime in however. You should put your truck info in your sig. Just a suggestion.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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Here's some useful info for you..............

Originally Posted by bismic
<table style="WIDTH: 710pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" width="947" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><colgroup><col style="WIDTH: 710pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 33472" width="947"></colgroup><tbody><tr style="HEIGHT: 21.1pt" height="28"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 21.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl25" height="28" width="947" align="left">PROCEDURE TO PRESSURE CHECK THE HPO SYSTEM W/ SHOP AIR (100 psig)</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947" align="left">See the video below starting about at 6:00 minutes.</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height="17"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl26" height="17" width="947" align="left">mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_3_256klarge.wmv</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 95.1pt" height="127"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 95.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="127" width="947" align="left">How willing are you to remove the FICM, turbo, intake manifold, and the EGR cooler to get to the HPOP cover and HPOP itself for troubleshooting? Otherwise:

One way to diagnose for an HPOP leak without a teardown: Remove the ICP sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover). You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting . You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the IPR, but only for 30 seconds or it will burn out. ALSO - be sure to remove the oil fill tube cap before applying shop air. This will prevent the possibility of overpressuring the crankcase.
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 108.7pt" height="145"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 108.7pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="145" width="947" align="left">You should be able to remove the IPR harness without removing the turbo.

Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!

To command the valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 120 seconds (30 seconds is more desireable) not to damage the ipr. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 129.1pt; mso-height-source: userset" height="172"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 129.1pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="172" width="947" align="left">Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height="18"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="18" width="947">
</td></tr><tr style="HEIGHT: 54.35pt" height="72"><td style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffcc00; WIDTH: 710pt; HEIGHT: 54.35pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid" class="xl24" height="72" width="947" align="left">There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. </td></tr></tbody></table>

(From the BISMIC spreadsheet)
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:26 PM
  #9  
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FSeybert
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FYI, mine did the same thing a few weeks back, found a broken injector. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:33 PM
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that is good info thanks FSeybert did yours just die on you.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 05:41 PM
  #11  
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From: New Mexico
DRT = Dead Right There. I had just pulled out from a side street, doing about 35 MPH or so, and it just died, no warning, no MIL, no nothing, just dead. I also saw about 70 PSI ICP pressure after cranking for about 10 seconds or so, nothing higher. Possible leak points are the STC fitting as mentioned, stand pipes and dummy plugs and what I found on mine, the injector to oil rail connection. I found #8 broken and #7 leaking very bad, replaced both injectors and now all is well. Good luck. Determining the source of the air leak can be a pain. Mine was leaking so badly it sounded like it was coming from the stand pipe, below the HPOP. The sound can be deflected by the oil rail pretty easily, that accompanied by less than stellar hearing, parked in the driveway with people driving by at the worst of times doesn't help either.......
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by fd316

i took the ipr valve out and the screen was blowed out

This Is your Problem

you need a new IPR

when the screen blows out the IPR is Toast and wont work right basicaly draining all the HPO cuz it stuck open

I bet you could install a New IPR and you will be back on the road. I would do that and try it and if that dont work (pretty shure it will though) then do an air test on the HPO system.

My guess to why it blew out is you had some recent work on the HPOS or you have the wrong oil filter/oil filter cap. The IPR got junk on the screen couldnt drain and built incredible pressure and blew out and the IPR is now stuck OPEN.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:16 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
This Is your Problem

you need a new IPR

when the screen blows out the IPR is Toast and wont work right basicaly draining all the HPO cuz it stuck open

I bet you could install a New IPR and you will be back on the road. I would do that and try it and if that dont work (pretty shure it will though) then do an air test on the HPO system.

My guess to why it blew out is you had some recent work on the HPOS or you have the wrong oil filter/oil filter cap. The IPR got junk on the screen couldnt drain and built incredible pressure and blew out and the IPR is now stuck OPEN.
That's good advice there. Since you have the same truck as I do, even if the IPR fixes the issue, the air test is a pretty unintrusive thing to get done, and if you do have an STC fitting that may be causing you issue, or could, it would be nice to know ahead of time.

Last August my STC O ring / fitting started to rear its ugly head by doing the Hot-No Start routine. Regardless you are going to need the IPR. Then perform the tests listed in the earlier post. After that I think you'll be all set.

Eric
 

Last edited by egregg57; Jan 12, 2012 at 02:22 AM. Reason: remove extraneous wording
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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let me ask this since the screen on the ipr was torn do i need to dig into the one under the oil cooler and change it
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by fd316
let me ask this since the screen on the ipr was torn do i need to dig into the one under the oil cooler and change it

I really doubt it that screen under the oil cooler is alot nbigger so it cant clog as easy
 
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