i knew i was forgeting something. just the same, it still applies if you consider how hard some people's heads are.

the problem with Coast High is that George Klass isnt there anymore. he was easy to deal with.

youve also got to consider the fact that youre buying chinese parts when you get the Coast High stuff. if its a kit, you can garauntee that something will be cut improperly.

all their stuff is the same SCAT, CAT, and Eagle junk thats forged in the same foundries in china, then shipped over here for a budget cut-job. if you can build a stroker rotating assembly for less than 2 grand, then you are buying chinese parts. its just the way things are.

 

Adam, where do you get your American engine parts from?

 

i might not be Jon Kasse or Billy Glidden, but ive forgotten more about Ford small blocks than anyone else ive seen on this board has ever known. that might not be a very nice thing to say, but its true. and im not saying it to make myself look "cool." im saying it because your time would be better served by paying attention to me, then trying to protect your ego.


Well thats a hell of a comment to make, considering that you have never met all of the people on this board. It makes me wonder if the scars on your palms and feet are still there from where they pounded you up on that cross?

 

"Adam, where do you get your American engine parts from?"

the American parts are excellent, but youve got to take it into perspective. for instance, Eagle cranks are almost ALWAYS out of round and show excessive taper. the eagles also have dangerously wide thrust and rear pilot mounting surfaces. the same applies to their rods (taper and out-of-round). however, the 4340 steel they use in them is sound, even if it came out of Chinese mines and foundries. having said that, a 500 or 600 dollar crankshaft can be taken to the machine shop and cut .010 and made perfect. these cranks are hardened down to .020, so they shouldnt need to be re-nitrided. naturally, a little prudence is called for here. so for 800 or so dollars, you can have a crankshaft that is 90 percent of the crankshaft a Moldex is. if youre running your car hard (four digit horsepower), that extra ten percent is important. for any stock windsor block application (or A351 Sportsman block), an Eagle or Scat will be fine.

if you want to step it up, the next batch of cranks is the Callies, Moldex, Sonny Bryant, and L.A. Enterprises cranks. im not sure if LAE still makes standard 4340 cranks, but the rest do.

after that, youre in the realm of billet 4340 cranks. the only cheap 4340 billets are the SCAT cranks, which are actually very nice. 1800 bucks can get you one of those in whatever stroke you specify, which whatever journals would suit you. LAE, Moldex, Bryant, Callies, and Winberg cranks are all sky-high, with the Winberg being the best, and most expensive, crankshaft on the market.

as far as rods go, several companies make good ones, but its the same issue as cranks. for the price of decent forged rods, you can step up to the billet rods. Lunati billets are the most cost effective of the billets --- 1000 bucks. and well worth it. Carrillos, Olivers, and Lentz rods (not the NASCAR surplus crap -- its not suited to any application short of circle track) are a bit more, but they hold more hp. Manley has a nice billet, and Crower has excellent billets. regular forged rods are made by all of the above manufacturers, minus Carrillo, and all are nice. some approach 1000 bucks though. so you need to decide what you want there. best bang for the buck is the Lunati Pro Mod rod. its stronger than a Eagle H beam, it creates less windage, and runs about 700 beans.

im about to try out some Groden aluminum rods in my motor, and from what Keith Groden told me about them, they seem to be ideal. they are better priced than the GRP's, but then again, they arent sold by distributors. you talk to someone named Groden when you order them. someone named Groden makes them for you, and someone named Groden boxes them up and ships them. they also have a doweling system that holds the cap square, and seems to be the best method out there right now. much better than GRP's serated tooth approach.

if youve noticed, the common theme behind all these parts is price. American parts arent cheap. but then again, youll fail a hundred chinese parts before an American one goes out. the steel is better, the machining is competent, and the quality is there. you get what you pay for.

if you measure every chinese part you get ten times, and are prepared to cut whats wrong and make it right, then chinese parts are perfectly fine for any application that would fit a truck. or for that matter, a stock block application. the rule of thumb is that if youre using a stock 302 block, a cast crank is more than sufficient, since its already stronger than the block is, and there is no need to go to a forging. if youre using a stock 351 block, a forging is worthwhile. 4130 rods are sufficient for stock 302 block engines. 4340 rods are a must for a 351 motor. forged pistons in every performance engine you build, no matter what.

all those parts can be bought from their respective manufacturers, as they dont have nearly as many dealers as the cheaper chinese parts do. thats just about the whole skinny on it.

-----------------------------
"Well thats a hell of a comment to make"

yes indeed. when youre finished reading my hellacious comments, perhaps youd like to speak on the issue at hand. or maybe not? either way, i dont much care for you, or your opinion, if it doesnt pertain to small block ford stroker engines. thanks for wasting valuable webspace with your "feelings." i suppose youre going to go cry yourself to sleep now, right?

face it. before i posted on this thread, there was alot of garbage floating around here. i just swept it to the corner and put a label on it. thats all.

"It makes me wonder if the scars on your palms and feet are still there from where they pounded you up on that cross?"

you had a bowl-cut when you were a kid, didnt you?

 

Thanks, that was very helpful. I'll know what to look for if I ever get around to building my 393...it's gonna happen someday if I can ever find the money...probably when I get out of school and get a real job. Thanks for all the info.

 

your the man Adam

 

"I'll know what to look for if I ever get around to building my 393"

well, remember, for a truck application, there is no need to hammer on the motor. if youve got to spin it to 5500 rpm, then it really shouldnt be in a truck. trucks are supposed to pull stumps, drag trailers, eat up dirt hills, and other things of the sort. you can still get them to accelerate quickly, but you shouldnt lose sight of what will make driving the truck fun in the first place. and thats torque. *** busting torque.

and you can do that with cheap parts. the 393 is very cost effective. its almost as cheap as the chevy 383.

the absolute best thing you can do is get a Scat cast 3.85 inch stroke crank from Flatlander or Ohio Crankshaft. it will most likely be spot on, but measure it anyway. use stock windsor rods, and put some ARP 3/8's wavelok bolts through them. some stock TRW 302 pistons will finish off the combo. if youre using big valve heads (which i suggest) you could get some pistons from DSS for 300 or so, which would have big flycuts and a mild dish. that will keep the compression reasonable. the 393 pistons ALWAYS end up 20 or so in the hole, so i suggest just keeping them there if youre going to run pump gas. get a large combustion chamber (64cc or so) and run a thick head gasket. that will bring you to a streetable CR.

its a very cheap motor if you build it right.

 

I was thinking like you, that I didn't need bullet proof race parts for the truck motor. Thanks for all the info! Another couple things, would the Edelbrock performer heads with the 2.02 valves work ok? Stock 302 pistons wouldn't bump the compression up too high? And, what do you think about JE forged pistons? Like I say, this won't happen for a while, but I want to learn as much as I can in the mean time.

 

edelbrock performer series heads will work well, but youve got to keep something in mind. the 393 has a big block stroke, and big block displacement. have you ever seen a big block with a 2.02 valve? nope. there is alot of cylinder to fill, and small block heads start coming up short with the stroker windsors.

while the peformer series will work, i would suggest something like the Victor Jr's, or maybe even the TFS R heads for that engine. out of the box, they will still make good torque, and they wont nose over too early, either.

remember, youll need the flycuts to clear the 2.05 valves in the Jr's, and the 2.08's in the R heads. another cost effective solution is getting a set of TFS High Ports and having them worked over a little. the High Ports have more potential than most people credit them with. more than even the R heads, in extremely large CID applications.

JE pistons have the reputation of being the toughest pistons out there. they arent anywhere near the lightest, but they hold up better than the others.

 

So adam I am now looken for a 351 because the 302 just isnt the way to go with such heavy rig. Ive also thought about stroken this motor to a 396. How does this kit look

scat 9000 series crank
scat/pro-line H beam rods
TRW Hyper Pistons

Its very possible that I would just be better off stayin with the 351 cubes and just installing a good cam, edelbrock truck intake and msd ignition then to spend the extra money on a kit. What do you think

thanks
late

 

id use the stock rods there. with ARP bolts, they can hold up to about 500 hp when kept under 6000 rpm. not to mention the fact that the TRdubs arent cut for spirolox, which all H beams require. stay away from Pro Line.

the kit wouldnt be worthwhile without decent heads and a good intake. so, basically, if youd rather spend just a little money, do the heads and intake now, but make sure you get something with enough potential to work in a 393, like a High Port.

 

adam, you are ruthless man! i like it, way to go.