Hard Starting Trouble
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Freshman User
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From: Covington, GA
Hard Starting Trouble
Have start problem when engine cool 40 to 60 degree. Can plug in heating element and engine starts. Have replaced GPR. Any ideas other than shorted GP's(OEM 
never replaced)? Thanks David
never replaced)? Thanks David
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Welcome to FTE. When you try to start it, do you get a bunch of white smoke out the tailpipe while cranking? Look at the very top of the 7.3 section for the winter cold start hard start thread. It will tell you how to test the glow plugs and the glow plug relay with a multi-meter.
If you can't find it, let us know and we'll walk you through the test procedure. It's always to test these things first before you start spending money throwing parts at it.
If you can't find it, let us know and we'll walk you through the test procedure. It's always to test these things first before you start spending money throwing parts at it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,089
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https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...ow-plug-system
Here it is with pictures. Those tests can be done in less that 30 mins and will let you know exactly where u stand on your glow plug system
Here it is with pictures. Those tests can be done in less that 30 mins and will let you know exactly where u stand on your glow plug system
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Covington, GA
Checked resistance per video instructions(thanks for the site referenced). I found that all Gp's had between 1.1 and 0.7 to 0.8. If the video instructions serve me correctly, piston no. 3 showed the 1.1, and the connection pin for piston no. 7 looked as if it was not making a good connection. So, if these numbers aren't too high, what else might I check? I forgot to check for the smoke before disconnecting the GP harness. Thanks, David.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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If u checked them like the video said, then all you GP are good.
Make sure your GPR is also working even though you replaced it. There have been trucks that have had the control circuit go bad.
How does it spin when cold without plugging it in? Is it sluggish? STarters (amp Draw) are often overlooked and will cause hard starting when cold. Clean connections are a must. Even if it looks clean, clean them and put them back together. Normal oxidation is sometimes enough to make it hard to start.
Worn injectors/inj orings will also cause one to be hard to start. Are there any other symptoms smoke, skip, etc?
Make sure your GPR is also working even though you replaced it. There have been trucks that have had the control circuit go bad.
How does it spin when cold without plugging it in? Is it sluggish? STarters (amp Draw) are often overlooked and will cause hard starting when cold. Clean connections are a must. Even if it looks clean, clean them and put them back together. Normal oxidation is sometimes enough to make it hard to start.
Worn injectors/inj orings will also cause one to be hard to start. Are there any other symptoms smoke, skip, etc?
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Freshman User
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From: Covington, GA
The engine spins over normally when trying to start it. After about 3 to 4 spins, it fires and starts the chug, chug, chug. As I stated previously, I failed to look for smoke when it's chugging. Will do that after I reconnect the GP Harness. If I wanted to check the GP Harness pins for voltage where they connect to the valve cover, would it hurt anything to short/jump the relay hot post...to the GP post and let the harness get power so as to check the harness for 12 volts? The Relay shouldn't get hot since there is no current draw should it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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Are u running anything in the oil besides oil? Like an additive? Are u running 15w40 or what oil and how long has it been on oil change?
Instead of jumping the hot posts, take the small pink wire off of the gpr and ground the small terminal of the gpr itself with the key on. Make sure you protect the ringlet you took off with electrical tape just a precaution for the pcm. It probably will not hurt anything but much cheaper to just be sure. That will energize the glow plugs. I do not think I would do it for more than about 2-3 minutes at a time so u will have to work quick. I would wait and let them cool off in between time but maybe I am overly cautious in that respect.
You are not terribly far from Athens where I live. I hope to have solus diagnostics this weekend to work on my 2001 so you are welcome to swing by if you want.
Instead of jumping the hot posts, take the small pink wire off of the gpr and ground the small terminal of the gpr itself with the key on. Make sure you protect the ringlet you took off with electrical tape just a precaution for the pcm. It probably will not hurt anything but much cheaper to just be sure. That will energize the glow plugs. I do not think I would do it for more than about 2-3 minutes at a time so u will have to work quick. I would wait and let them cool off in between time but maybe I am overly cautious in that respect.
You are not terribly far from Athens where I live. I hope to have solus diagnostics this weekend to work on my 2001 so you are welcome to swing by if you want.
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Freshman User
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From: Covington, GA
Thx on invite. Grandkids sports today, however. In answer to your question, I just changed the oil and filter(15W40), and fuel filter, but the chug, chug on start up was there before the maint performed. I rechecked the GPR and got 14.2 volts on both posts W/switch on. Also got good voltage through the GP wiring harness from the GPR to the harness end where it connects to the valve cover while disconnected. Cleaned bad GP pin in valve cover connector and brushed all the pins to try and clean off any oxidation. Recranked the truck today and still got the same chug, chug until you put it in gear, and immediately engine starts to run smooth. Any further ideas? Thx. David.
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Cargo Master
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Try waiting a longer after the wts light goes out. The gP will stay on for up to two mins but the little reminder light will not stay but say 15 s. T
I am thinking the chug you are describing is kind of like a big cam type idle. If that is so, some folks call it the romps b/c of the sound. ROMP ROMP ROMP Mine may do it every blue moon but not very often. Usually its after several cold days and me not cranking it. Once it does it 3-4 times, all is good. Some of the more northern folks run a lighter weight oil in the winter to combat the romps and cold start issues, but we do not get the same type temps they get.
Did u actually check the resistance going to each gp at the valve cover connector?
I am thinking the chug you are describing is kind of like a big cam type idle. If that is so, some folks call it the romps b/c of the sound. ROMP ROMP ROMP Mine may do it every blue moon but not very often. Usually its after several cold days and me not cranking it. Once it does it 3-4 times, all is good. Some of the more northern folks run a lighter weight oil in the winter to combat the romps and cold start issues, but we do not get the same type temps they get.
Did u actually check the resistance going to each gp at the valve cover connector?
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Freshman User
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From: Covington, GA
I started the truck this afternoon again to look for smoke. The smoke was black as the engine gave the Romp's. Again, as soon as I put it in gear the engine smooths out. I have checked the GPR with the volt meter, and the GP's only stay on maybe 30 seconds before it clicks and cuts the power to the GP's. I suppose I could try and reheat, but I believe that there is something else that the PCM is sensing that only causes the GPR to be energized for such a short period of time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
This is the strange part. So if you let it idle for 5 min. it will romp and then instantly go smooth by shifting into gear? Same thing if you shift into gear after 3 seconds of idle? This only happens when it drops below 60?
Your problem is not glow plug related. Just to be safe, please check the engine oil level and verify it's full. Then try unplugging the ICP sensor after you start it and see if that makes it idle better.
ICP sensor is on the front, inboard side of the drivers head.
Your problem is not glow plug related. Just to be safe, please check the engine oil level and verify it's full. Then try unplugging the ICP sensor after you start it and see if that makes it idle better.
ICP sensor is on the front, inboard side of the drivers head.
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Freshman User
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From: Covington, GA
I just changed the oil, and it's showing full. In addition, there are no chips etc. The engine is as manufactured in the early spring of 1998, when the first intercooled 99's were being introduced. I'm the original owner, so there have been no mod's. As you suggested, when I started the engine, I pulled the ICP Sensor wire, but the Engine idle slowed monetarily, but then idled about the same as with the wire connected. I might add, the temperature is not cold in this area at the current time. So, I will have to try this again when it gets cooler. Current temp is about 55. Mean while, any further thoughts?? Thanks, David.
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