painting cac tubes
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,604
Likes: 4
From: Claremore, OK
Seems like there should be a "ring" on the tube that the boot will "click" on when the boot is installed all the way. I know on the end by the turbo it's there and works wonders without the help of hairspray. The paint just makes the tube slicker/harder for the boot to clamp on.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 649
Likes: 2
From: PA
Seems like there should be a "ring" on the tube that the boot will "click" on when the boot is installed all the way. I know on the end by the turbo it's there and works wonders without the help of hairspray. The paint just makes the tube slicker/harder for the boot to clamp on.
Dieselsite Turbo Hose Retaining Ring - 3" ID Boost Hose
Dieselsite sells them, and I tried them. At $8.50 a piece they are not very impressive to me. I understand the concept of them and it would seem to make sense. But not only are they near impossible to install correctly because they come out of position as soon as you try to slide the boot over, but they destroy the inner layer of the boot too. Which is part of the reason mine started fraying. I'll pull it apart and try to post a pic tomorrow.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
Ok well I sanded the paint off where the boot meets up and still no luck. Popped off on me 4 times today. Really frustrated at this point. I don't think its anything to do with the tube, the boot itself feels extremely slick and oily. I went ahead and ordered the RiffRaff ones.
On a side note it looks like I'm walking to work tomorrow...
On a side note it looks like I'm walking to work tomorrow...
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
The most common place for them to come off is each end of the metal tube between the turbo and the intercooler(the tube you painted). Clean them up good and use brake cleaner, carb cleaner, lacquer thinner or somthing like that on the inside of the the boots. They should feel kinda sticky when they are clean. Get everything together for one end (clamps in place and stuff) spray The insides of the boot with hairspray (anything in a spray can, my truck likes lilac) until it's wet and immediately put it together and torque it. Tighten the nut until the coil spring under the nut just begins to bind (I know... Thats not what the book says) that is until the coils of the spring begin to touch each other. Then do the other end the same way. They won't pop off. When you get your new boots torque them to spec with new clamps.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 77
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boot coming off
i made a quick bracket for my cac tube. it bolts to the alternator bolt and uses 2 hose clamps to secure to the cac tube. i will try to get some picts up shortly . i tried everything mentioned above, even got some hose and clamps that were rated to 75psi and they still came off. i changed the stock suff and went with a bamks complete intercooler /pipe system and still blew off hoses. this was the only fix that worked for mee. been about 18k miles since and no movement on the boots. also painted my tubes with hammered black rustoleum and they have been fine and look good
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
Well the boots came in today. Shipped the same day I ordered and got here 2 days later. 
They are much better quality than stock and they even hold the cac tube in place better, it doesn't wiggle around like it used to. I've only had time to take it for a quick test drive but so far they are holding up great.
They are much better quality than stock and they even hold the cac tube in place better, it doesn't wiggle around like it used to. I've only had time to take it for a quick test drive but so far they are holding up great.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 649
Likes: 2
From: PA
Well the boots came in today. Shipped the same day I ordered and got here 2 days later.
They are much better quality than stock and they even hold the cac tube in place better, it doesn't wiggle around like it used to. I've only had time to take it for a quick test drive but so far they are holding up great.
They are much better quality than stock and they even hold the cac tube in place better, it doesn't wiggle around like it used to. I've only had time to take it for a quick test drive but so far they are holding up great.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
I was definitely not expecting to see them today, the order tracking said Monday. The crazy part is they shipped all the way from Oregon and I live in Virginia.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,604
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From: Claremore, OK
Clay sent me a fitting so I could hook my EV2 fuel pressure sender up...three days Oregon to Arkansas. And that's USPS doing the delivery. Which boots did you get? I've got one that's starting to look like the Valdez so I figure I'll just do all 4 (110K and 8 years on 'em).
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
Yeah USPS delivered for me too. I just got the hot side boots because my '07 has a plastic tube on the cold side. The "code" on their website for them is RDPABK03-06-HS.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
UPDATE: The RiffRaff boots stayed on 2 weeks and after a WOT run today, a boot popped off again!!!
This time its a different one, its where the tube connects to the boot that connects to the turbo (hopefully that makes sense). I'm getting sick of this and can't help but thinking I'm not tightening them enough. Can I just go out there and crank down on the clamps as hard as I can? I really don't want to break them but I can't take this anymore
This time its a different one, its where the tube connects to the boot that connects to the turbo (hopefully that makes sense). I'm getting sick of this and can't help but thinking I'm not tightening them enough. Can I just go out there and crank down on the clamps as hard as I can? I really don't want to break them but I can't take this anymore
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 77
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boots
so i had the same problem wiht the boots coming off. new ones from ford,banks,sheid diesel etc... also some cheapos from ebay. tried the hair spray trick, new clamps, etc... the only thing that has worked for me was i made a little bracket that hose clamped to the tube. the bracket bolts to tha alternator mounting bolts. about a 20 min. job with a little mechanical ability, and a wire feed welder. it took longer for the piant to dry than it did to make it. I will post some picts. tomorrow before i tear it down .I have to change my oil cooler and add a coolant filter and a whole other list of preventative goodies.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Virginia beach, VA
I don't know the first thing about welding but I'd like to see the pics anyway when you get a chance. I'm literally afraid to drive my truck because of these stupid things. Its embarrassing as hell (not to mention inconvenient) climbing under the hood to fix them on the side of the road. I think its the 7th time total I've had to do this. I thought about putting a couple screws threw the boots but not sure if that would hold
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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boots
well im struggling trying to post pictures. im not computer savvy at all !! if you would like or can i will send them to you through a text or a private email .I can do it that way !!!
ive got a couple of picts. I would make you one, but my pipes are the banks pipes, so they are a little bigger od and route slightly different. so my exact bracket would not fit your truck.
ive got a couple of picts. I would make you one, but my pipes are the banks pipes, so they are a little bigger od and route slightly different. so my exact bracket would not fit your truck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 3
As I recall, the spec for the boot band bolts is 8-9 ft-lbs. Which isn't much more than what a zip-tie would clamp.
Also as I recall, this light clamping force was Ford's way of dealing with an overboost situation; get the boost too high, and the boots blow. Lots of noise and a change of underwear for the owner, but not sustaining any real engine damage.
This was before anyone knew how oily the boots got in regular service. Or how much of a PITA they are to clean out/off.
On the Freightliner, which has no closed PCV system nor EGR, I always crank the spring clamps down as far as they'll go, which is to say, TIGHT. Even on the newer trucks that HAVE the CPCV and EGR, they still clamp them TIGHT.
IMHO, crank them down till you have used up MOST (but not all) of the spring in the spring-clamp. The spring is supposed to maintain tension when the CAC tubes expand and contract during heat cycling.
-blaine
Also as I recall, this light clamping force was Ford's way of dealing with an overboost situation; get the boost too high, and the boots blow. Lots of noise and a change of underwear for the owner, but not sustaining any real engine damage.
This was before anyone knew how oily the boots got in regular service. Or how much of a PITA they are to clean out/off.
On the Freightliner, which has no closed PCV system nor EGR, I always crank the spring clamps down as far as they'll go, which is to say, TIGHT. Even on the newer trucks that HAVE the CPCV and EGR, they still clamp them TIGHT.
IMHO, crank them down till you have used up MOST (but not all) of the spring in the spring-clamp. The spring is supposed to maintain tension when the CAC tubes expand and contract during heat cycling.
-blaine