Ok so my truck is an 06 and the batteries were getting a little tired. With the cold weather we have been having here in n.y. The truck got to the point it wouldn't even crank in the mornings. So I broke down and put 2 new batteries in on Saturday. I put the batteries in and the truck started right up after not being started for a week. I drove it all day Saturday and parked it around 3:00 in the afternoon. I just went out about 2 hours ago to go to the store and when I turned the key to start it, it cranked for about 10 seconds before starting. Usually the truck will start in about 2 to 3 seconds of cranking. It cranked fast not sluggish at all like it did with the older batteries. So I figured maybe it was just a a creek thing so I didn't pay much mind to it. I got to the store and the truck was up to running temp. I was in there about a half hour and when I went to start it to leave same thing it cranked for about 10-15 seconds befor starting. At this point the truck was still hot so I know it had nothing to do with the cold. Then I thought maybe something to do with the new batteries but it started fine all day yesterday. Once started the truck runs totally normal. It's just how long it takes cranking befor it starts. If anyone has any ideas or advice I would really appreciate it thanks

 

Have you checked for any codes? Was there any smoke when it finally did start? Assume your running OEM filters? Low fuel pressure is another thought.

My opinion is assuming your allowing the glow plug light to go out each time before you turn the key to the start position. How long did you run the truck (days/weeks) on the older weak batteries? It's possible you've done some damage to the FICM by running the truck on weak batteries. Let me see if I can find the photo for testing the 4 pin FICM (pretty sure that's what you've got). Thinking your FICM may have taken a beating with those weak batteries if you ran 'em to the point they were having trouble starting the truck.

 

The batteries were the stock ones since 06. And yeah I always Waite for the glow plug light to go out befor starting. What is the ficm and I hope it's not something supper expensive to fix. I know nothing is really a cheap fix one a diesel truck. The batteries really started sounding weak the last month or so when the weather started getting cold

 

And for the smoke I'm not sure it was dark out. But in cold weather my truck always blows a little black smoke when it first starts. When it is real cold it will start with a little black then turn white. Once it idles a few min. It is fine no smoke at all. I did not check for any codes I do not have a scan tool. And when u say oem filters you mean fuel filters. I replaced both of them my last oil change about 2000 miles ago

 

Best to uuse all OEM filters all the way around on th 6.0

The easist thing here would be to get a ScangaugeII so you could watch some things

for now look in the tech folder for the FICM Test

 

What is the ficm and what does it do I was searching and I found a post on how to replace the pins on it but where is it located, what dose it do, and how much does something like that cost to fix. Thanks for the speedy responses guys. And yes I do use all oem filters

 

FICM = Fuel Injector Control Module. Basically it's what tells which injector to fire when. It's under the degas (overflow) bottle on the driver's side of the engine. If you did beat it up, I'd send it to Ed @ FICMrepair.com before I purchased a new one. I think I saw a post that it cost $400 for Ed to repair one; one from Ford is over a grand. Don't think you'll find one aftermarket.

 

Alright, finally found what I was looking for. Like I said, I'm pretty sure you've got a "4 screw" FICM...the older 6.0L ('03 & '04) have a 7 screw. With that said, here is how you test your FICM (informtion from the tech folder):

1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.

2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.

3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!

5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.



And if that wasn't enough to read.....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/n...e=1&p=11256983

 

Weak batteries will make one suffer

 

could be a leaking stand pipe or dummy plug but test the ficm first.also have the alternator load tested

 

ok thank you for all the info. this morning i went out to start the truck and it started up just fine. cranked for about 3 seconds at most and started. it was about 24 degrees to boot, and the truck was not plugged in. the truck had a rough idle for a min. or so but i guess that would be expected in this temp. so i am planning on testing the ficm today after work, but if that were the problem would it have trouble starting every time or just when it wants to? i am hoping it was a freak thing that it had trouble just those 2 times yesterday. money is kind of tight for me right now so i am anxious to find out if this is the problem or not.

 

FYI--the FICM needs to be tested COLD. It could give you a "correct" reading after it gets warm. That being said: Just because the voltage is correct doesn't mean the FICM is good. It can still have problems.

 

A few weeks ago we had a mild cold snap and I noticed my truck idled very rough when I first started it. It concerned me and I had a few other minor issues so I took it to the dealer. They replaced the FICM (this was before I knew about this site and Ed). We have had a couple days of even colder weather and now it doesn't idle rough at all when started cold. There is a big improvement in pulling power as well. The FICM must have been going bad slowly because I hadn't really noticed a decrease in power. Let me tell you, there is a noticeable improvement in power now.

If you are at all mechanically inclined and can afford to be without the truck for a while then take out the FICM yourself and send it to one of those services (I can't recommend one because I haven't had any experience with one.). If you can solder then you might be able to fix the FICM yourself. One of the problems appears to be bad solder joints thus some electronic components are NOT making good connections to the printed circuit board.

 

so i guess i need to try and see if it has any codes as well? if the voltage test is not a 100% way to find out

 

That would be true if he only had problems starting it warm. He posted that he had problems starting it cold; not typical a cold start issue. I'm not saying the FICM is trashed...but continued starting on weak batteries plays havoc on it.Most definitely need to check and see if/what codes the truck has.