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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 06:25 PM
  #1  
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Assessment help

I know nothing of this vintage engine. However, I have a line on a 1990 F250 with 109K miles, 7.3 engine and 5 speed tranny--4x4. Looks pretty good to me and the air works. Wants $2500. Seems like a steal to me. Says it runs good but needs an injector. Any comment on how good a truck this could be? Dually rears too. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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Someone's changed things around, as F250's are all single rear wheel from factory. Not saying it's a bad thing, just that it's not original. There are several ways they could have done it, and you didn't say if the front wheels/rims are 'dually' rims, or regular rims. As far as price goes, it depends on the condition, the area you are in, and of course the regular 'auto' features etc.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:58 PM
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It sounds like a good deal. Ask the owner if he kept up the SCAs or if he even knows what they are. If he has and/or the anti-freeze looks clean and rust free then the engine is more than likely solid.
Not to scare you off, the idea of cavitation does worry some, but the IDI is quite possibly the best diesel ever put in a pickup, IMO of course, but the reliability, simplicity, and cost of repair can't be beat.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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This is a list of what to check for the powerstroke, but nearly all of it applies to the IDI's as well. Some good stuff. Do what i did, print it out and take it with you.

Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.
Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...&f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.
VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

------------

Obviously, look for leaks and rust. You did not say where you are from, but there's more salt on the roads in some parts of the country than others. I see a few nice examples all the time. Keep us up to date and post the CraigsList links if you want opinions.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:45 AM
  #5  
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Thank you all VERY much for the advice and for your time giving it. It was all very helpful. I'm in north Florida. I plan to look at the truck this afternoon. I will post my findings and my decision on buying. Money is tight, as with everyone, but it sure looks like a nice truck. The house payment may have to wait.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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I wish i could say all that was mine, but its just something i have saved on my computer for when people ask lol. But good luck, and make sure and let us know!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Ford4Life7.3
Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)
what if the seller does not want you to take their vehicle to a shop for inspection? i undestand that if that was the case then mabey they have something to hide, but i know that even if my truck was in good condition i would not want to have a possible buyer taking my truck to a shop.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:02 PM
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You dont need to take it to a shop, of course, avisual inspection will tell you what shape everythings in if ya know what to look for.
 
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