Starter grinding
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Prince Edward Island
Starter grinding
My 2001 7.3 has a dry grind when first starting the truck in the mornings. The rest of the day the truck works great.
Soon as I wait for the light to go out and I try to start it, I get the dry grind (sounds like the bendix is hitting the flywheel) and then once I turn the key off and retry - works great.
Wifey says she has better luck with it when waiting about 5 seconds after the light goes out to try to start it.
I looked at the starter and everything looks clean and tight.
I was going to take it to a starter rebuild shop here, but since I cant duplicate the problem during the daytime, I imagine they would only end up rebuilding it.
Would a solenoid cause this problem? Since the starter works great during the day, I sorta am leaning away from a bad starter..
This just started about a month ago and is not everyday, maybe 4-5 times a week and had worked flawlessly in the past.
Or maybe the bendix is starting to act up to be slow to engage and starts spinning before it gets fully engaged?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Soon as I wait for the light to go out and I try to start it, I get the dry grind (sounds like the bendix is hitting the flywheel) and then once I turn the key off and retry - works great.
Wifey says she has better luck with it when waiting about 5 seconds after the light goes out to try to start it.
I looked at the starter and everything looks clean and tight.
I was going to take it to a starter rebuild shop here, but since I cant duplicate the problem during the daytime, I imagine they would only end up rebuilding it.
Would a solenoid cause this problem? Since the starter works great during the day, I sorta am leaning away from a bad starter..
This just started about a month ago and is not everyday, maybe 4-5 times a week and had worked flawlessly in the past.
Or maybe the bendix is starting to act up to be slow to engage and starts spinning before it gets fully engaged?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
My 2001 7.3 has a dry grind when first starting the truck in the mornings. The rest of the day the truck works great.
Soon as I wait for the light to go out and I try to start it, I get the dry grind (sounds like the bendix is hitting the flywheel) and then once I turn the key off and retry - works great.
Wifey says she has better luck with it when waiting about 5 seconds after the light goes out to try to start it.
I looked at the starter and everything looks clean and tight.
I was going to take it to a starter rebuild shop here, but since I cant duplicate the problem during the daytime, I imagine they would only end up rebuilding it.
Would a solenoid cause this problem? Since the starter works great during the day, I sorta am leaning away from a bad starter..
This just started about a month ago and is not everyday, maybe 4-5 times a week and had worked flawlessly in the past.
Or maybe the bendix is starting to act up to be slow to engage and starts spinning before it gets fully engaged?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Soon as I wait for the light to go out and I try to start it, I get the dry grind (sounds like the bendix is hitting the flywheel) and then once I turn the key off and retry - works great.
Wifey says she has better luck with it when waiting about 5 seconds after the light goes out to try to start it.
I looked at the starter and everything looks clean and tight.
I was going to take it to a starter rebuild shop here, but since I cant duplicate the problem during the daytime, I imagine they would only end up rebuilding it.
Would a solenoid cause this problem? Since the starter works great during the day, I sorta am leaning away from a bad starter..
This just started about a month ago and is not everyday, maybe 4-5 times a week and had worked flawlessly in the past.
Or maybe the bendix is starting to act up to be slow to engage and starts spinning before it gets fully engaged?
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Been there, done that....
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
The hot wire on the starter is always hot so be carefule or unhook your batt. When you put the starter back on be very carefule with the little wire/nut/post.... it will twist right out of the housing if you are not careful...
yep, snapped it right out.
yep, snapped it right out.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
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From: Prince Edward Island
A little off topic, Are these engines like some gas cars where you need to relearn the computer after disconnecting the batteries?
We had a honda odyssey that needed to do this or it would work horrible.
Thanks
Example:
Computer Relearn Procedures
Customers often complain of driveability problems during relearn stage because vehicle acts differently then before being serviced. Depending on type and make of vehicle and how it is equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
- Harsh Or Poor Shift Quality
- Rough Or Unstable Idle
- Hesitation Or Stumble
- Rich Or Lean Running
- Poor Fuel Mileage
Automatic Transmission
- Set parking brake, start engine in "P" or "N" position. Warm-up vehicle to normal operating temperature or until cooling fan cycles.
- Allow vehicle to idle for one minute in "N" position. Select "D" and allow engine to idle for one minute.
- Accelerate at normal throttle position (20-50%) until vehicle shifts into top gear.
- Cruise at light to medium throttle.
- Decelerate to a stop, allowing vehicle to downshift, and use brakes normally.
- Process may be repeated as necessary.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
Thanks
A little off topic, Are these engines like some gas cars where you need to relearn the computer after disconnecting the batteries?
We had a honda odyssey that needed to do this or it would work horrible.
Thanks
Example:
Computer Relearn Procedures
Customers often complain of driveability problems during relearn stage because vehicle acts differently then before being serviced. Depending on type and make of vehicle and how it is equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
Automatic Transmission
A little off topic, Are these engines like some gas cars where you need to relearn the computer after disconnecting the batteries?
We had a honda odyssey that needed to do this or it would work horrible.
Thanks
Example:
Computer Relearn Procedures
Customers often complain of driveability problems during relearn stage because vehicle acts differently then before being serviced. Depending on type and make of vehicle and how it is equipped, the following complaints (driveability problems) may exist:
- Harsh Or Poor Shift Quality
- Rough Or Unstable Idle
- Hesitation Or Stumble
- Rich Or Lean Running
- Poor Fuel Mileage
Automatic Transmission
- Set parking brake, start engine in "P" or "N" position. Warm-up vehicle to normal operating temperature or until cooling fan cycles.
- Allow vehicle to idle for one minute in "N" position. Select "D" and allow engine to idle for one minute.
- Accelerate at normal throttle position (20-50%) until vehicle shifts into top gear.
- Cruise at light to medium throttle.
- Decelerate to a stop, allowing vehicle to downshift, and use brakes normally.
- Process may be repeated as necessary.
No topic is off topic.
I, at one time had thought that and did not like to disconnect my batts ( I thought that I had read that if the batts were disconnected that I would have to go to the Dealer to get the radio to work because of the anti theft stuff
). I found out differently. You will be fine to disconnect the batts to pull your starter off safely. The truck will take a short time to 'relearn' some stuff' but it will be fine.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Prince Edward Island
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Boston, MA
I JUST took my starter out because I was having the same issues and this is what I found...I replaced a snapped lug on the positive cable last week and thought that was the issue....
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Prince Edward Island
Ah.. I expect something similar lol
Need to put the truck in the garage soon and replace the studs on the exhaust manifolds along with adding gaskets to them.. will be a perfect time to rip that apart too..
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
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From: Prince Edward Island
Well,
Took my starter all apart last week and everything looked good.. cleaned it very well and regreased the spots needing grease.
STILL grinding..
So ordered in a new starter solenoid, put it on today, started twice no problem.. THEN I get the grinding again.. Takes about 2 grinds before the starter engages..
The starter shop here is very expensive so was hoping to do it myself..
What next? The soleniod on the fender? It dont look too bad, but looks can be decieving....
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Took my starter all apart last week and everything looked good.. cleaned it very well and regreased the spots needing grease.
STILL grinding..
So ordered in a new starter solenoid, put it on today, started twice no problem.. THEN I get the grinding again.. Takes about 2 grinds before the starter engages..
The starter shop here is very expensive so was hoping to do it myself..
What next? The soleniod on the fender? It dont look too bad, but looks can be decieving....
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Prince Edward Island
Everything looked like new in the starter.. It was a napa reman one from 2009 according to the sticker , but It was on the truck when I got it.
The flywheel has a bit of chewed marks on the very outside edge, but nothing bad.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: Vilonia Arkansas
That relay on the inner fender is a switch from the key to the solenoid so if it was bad I would say you not would have any thing at the starter . I think I would pull it back off and take it and have it tested ,if you keep grinding the gears you are going to end up replacing the flexplate too.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Prince Edward Island
That relay on the inner fender is a switch from the key to the solenoid so if it was bad I would say you not would have any thing at the starter . I think I would pull it back off and take it and have it tested ,if you keep grinding the gears you are going to end up replacing the flexplate too.
Thanks! Yep.. taking it in and being tested may be my best bet.. safer then risking my flywheel..
Swapped those out before on other vehicles, not a fun job lol
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 260
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From: Prince Edward Island
Would a weak battery cause the starter to act up like this?
Just looked at my batteries and I think they are the origional motocraft.. (from 2001)
Because the other day when I had starting issues with it ( had the truck started about a dozen times and key on for about a hour doing my chips), I had to boost it and the whole time I was trying to get it boosted, the starter worked flawlessly..
Just looked at my batteries and I think they are the origional motocraft.. (from 2001)
Because the other day when I had starting issues with it ( had the truck started about a dozen times and key on for about a hour doing my chips), I had to boost it and the whole time I was trying to get it boosted, the starter worked flawlessly..