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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:03 PM
  #16  
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remove the ficm, rear ficm bracket, rear stud on intake manifold that has the injector harness ground. use the socket, a swivel and a 6" extension.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #17  
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Cheezit- You're not allowed to vote... from previous threads I have read you are usually right, and I don't want you to be right about this one. Can you explain to me why I am not getting any codes now? Usually HPOP failures start to give symptoms at higher temps, but this one started as high throttle position problems only. Is this common?.?.?

Farmer- I planned to do it with the turbo on. I don't like to pull the turbo if I can help it because I don't like to disturb the oil tube o-rings.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #18  
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03-04 pumps are knowen to fail. the reason you have a concern at high rpm is a supply issue more then likly. its not always pressure that has an effect you have to take into account volume. its possble to a a bunch of one with out the other.
to test it you need some special tools that are not that cheep. basicly you would attempt to run the enigne off of one bank at a time. from there you command the ipr to 100% and dead head the pump. this is the same type of test that is done on a 7.3 just requires different tools.
How often do you make it up to the dfw area. if its often and your willing to leave a refundable deposit equal to the value of the tools and can return them in a VERY timly fashion let me know
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:41 PM
  #19  
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So, I got my fuel pressure gauge hooked up tonight. With the key on, the fuel pressure builds to 70psi. As soon as the pump shuts off, the pressure drops to (0) within about 2 seconds. Is this normal? So as soon as I try to start my truck there is no fuel pressure?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bigbeariron
.

I was getting a P2290- ICP low, but after unplugging the ICP and trying to start, the code hasn't come back.

I have a scangauge II and the readings while cranking are as follows:

ICP: 670psi
IPR: 75%
FICM: 47.5V
BATT: 12.5V
TPS is accurate
Both SYNC's are good


I am going to vote for a Bad IPR

you replaced the ficm so will say its good
you shouldnt have replaced FICM a P2290 is HPO code the FICM was Good

IMO you have a HPO problem
P2290 confirms that

IPR at 75% I think your HPO Pressure should be WAY HIGHER than 670 ICP

when my truck is cold the ICP is way higher ICP pressure like 700ICP to maybe 800s ICP IIRC So at 670ICP that explains why it runs very rough for 3-5 secxconds and then Dies just not enough HPO pressure

I think its the IPR thats your problem I think its Blown out and stuck partly open draining to much HPO back to the oil pan.
I would pull and inspect the IPR screen First see if the screen is Pushed,plugged,or torn replace the IPR valve

and get a OEM oil filter and cap if you dont have those on there now
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #21  
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If you still need a tool to get the IPR out here is what I used. It is a hydraulic line tool and it worked AMAZING!! You can find these at allot of tool stores or equipment stores. What I liked about this tool was it got the head of my rachet out of the way of the rocker box, so it was no problem just sticking my ratchet and this tool in there really quick and popping it loose. I tried making one and failed pretty bad one night I might grow a pair and post a pic of that on here lol
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by cheezit
03-04 pumps are knowen to fail. the reason you have a concern at high rpm is a supply issue more then likly. its not always pressure that has an effect you have to take into account volume. its possble to a a bunch of one with out the other.
to test it you need some special tools that are not that cheep. basicly you would attempt to run the enigne off of one bank at a time. from there you command the ipr to 100% and dead head the pump. this is the same type of test that is done on a 7.3 just requires different tools.
How often do you make it up to the dfw area. if its often and your willing to leave a refundable deposit equal to the value of the tools and can return them in a VERY timly fashion let me know
A VERY generous offer!!!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 06:02 AM
  #23  
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Cheezit is always willing to help
I like Dukies idea and have seen guys mill a regular long socket
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 06:21 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by dukie1877
If you still need a tool to get the IPR out here is what I used. It is a hydraulic line tool and it worked AMAZING!! You can find these at allot of tool stores or equipment stores. What I liked about this tool was it got the head of my rachet out of the way of the rocker box, so it was no problem just sticking my ratchet and this tool in there really quick and popping it loose. I tried making one and failed pretty bad one night I might grow a pair and post a pic of that on here lol
What size is that? What brand can't read it? Does that fit over the plug end and then able to turn it to position that you need to get ratchet on?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #25  
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its 1 3/8 inch I also think a 35mm would work. Made by Wright Tool 1084 USA made If you have any buddies that work on hydraulics or big machinery they would most likely have this tool.

CHEEZIT <-------> YOUR THE MAN
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 09:14 AM
  #26  
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its a 12 pt 1 3/8" crowsfoot. and yes a 35mm will also work
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #27  
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Cheezit- that is a very generous offer. Unfortunately I very rarely make it up to DFW, and I fear with the price of gasoline that it might be more economical just to replace all suspect components.

Blade- I didn't replace the FICM, i just swapped in a known good unit to verify that it was not the culprit. I will be pulling the IPR ASAP. I'm hoping that's all it is.

I wish I would have known about that wrench. It would have saved me $20. They have it at VatoZone for $7.

Thanks everyone and I will keep you updated when I pull the IPR.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bigbeariron
Cheezit- that is a very generous offer. Unfortunately I very rarely make it up to DFW, and I fear with the price of gasoline that it might be more economical just to replace all suspect components.

Blade- I didn't replace the FICM, i just swapped in a known good unit to verify that it was not the culprit. I will be pulling the IPR ASAP. I'm hoping that's all it is.


I wish I would have known about that wrench. It would have saved me $20. They have it at VatoZone for $7.

Thanks everyone and I will keep you updated when I pull the IPR.
Is that suppose to be auto zone? Checked there for ipr socket they didn't have a clue what I was talking about but if they have that hydraulic socket for seven that be great !
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #29  
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wow $7 thats a good deal I paid $45 for mine but its also made in the USA and is a quality tool. I dident know they sold stuff like that at autozone wierd.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:30 PM
  #30  
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Yea its Autozone, I call it that because in this part of Tx it's hard to find someone at autozone that speaks english. ha

I saw it on their website, said they had it in stock in my area.

Did anyone see my post about the fuel pressure? I'm a little concerned about it.
 
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