Hello all. Been a while since I have done anything with the truck. Given all the mess of things around here from August on.......it's taken a back seat to things. Now with the cold days and no garage to work on it, it seems like nothing is getting accomplished. I had hoped to have it in the body shop by now getting replacement panels welded in but with the inability to find a body shop that will work on it is killing the project.

Anyhow, I had some issues with my ignition switch. A couple of the wires broke off the connectors and had to be reattached. Unfortunately, it happened before I could get everything tagged. So.....I was wondering if anyone has a simple schematic that can help with the wiring. I do have the one in the shop manual but for some reason my switch and the wires don't patch. It is the original switch, that I have been assured of.

The truck is capable of starting, running and turning off but there is no power in the Acc mode and for some reason, power is still running through the regulator even in the off position with the key removed. I've been reduced to disconneting the battery so it doesn't drain down the system over and over again. The other odd thing is that all the accessories work accept for the wipers.

The wiring is a complete mess and is in need of replacing but until I can get there....... I would just like to get it back to normal for now.

Thanks in advance!

 

Im looking at the 61-63 service manual. For the ignition switch the wire hookups are as follows.

A terminal you have Black with a green trace. One lead goes to the constant voltage unit on the back of the instrument cluster. the other goes to the fuse block on the headlight switch.

S terminal red with blue trace. goes to the start relay small terminal same side as the hot cable to the starter.

B terminal is black it goes to fuse block at head light switch ties in with black with yellow trace that goes out to the start relay and connects with the hot from the battrey on that terminal. Goes to the B terminal on the gen regulator from there.

C terminal has a red with green trace goes to B side of ignition coil. Also splices into a brown lead that goes to the small terminal on the start relay oposite the red with blue trace.

C terminal also has black with green trace going to instrument cluster should have a spice with one side going to the oil pressure indicator other side to gen indicator light.

Hope this helps.

 

Buzz,

That does help. Thanks a million!

The next thing I would ask is, can you map the connection terminals for those wires?
The big trick now is to determine the color codes. Some of my wires have been painted over very heavily when they sprayed the interior during the last resto. That's where and why I believe I am getting things crossed. I think I have the black lead on the wrong terminal....maybe that center post on the switch. In all seriousness, I have forgotten how to use my fricken volt meter and am relying on my home circuit tester for determining the "live" status of the wires. It really is true about use it or lose it!
Plus, I don't think the dang thing works anymore since I had 30 year old batteries in the dang thing. They were badly corroded. I'll have to double check after this weekend and also see if I can find the destructions for my tester.

 

I believe and may be wrong but I think your acc. run off the post with the nut on the backside/center of your ignition

 

There are two different ignition switches. The 1961/66 original was replaced by FoMoCo with the 1967 switch that has an extra post.

Confederate Diesel has the wiring diagram to wire the 1967 switch to 1961/66's. The diagram used to come in the box along with the 1967 switch, but that was ages ago.

Since Buzz44 posted the info from the 1961/63 shop manual, it's for the original 1961/63 (1964/66) switch.

 

I hear that bell ringing agian taking me to school Now I know that I have a newer style ign switch thanks ND

 

Just recently put a new ignition switch in my 65. It appears to be a better built switch than the one that came out of the truck. I got it at autozone. The crimps around the outside of the switch body were far more substantial than the Ford switch that I replaced. The Ford switch came apart due to what looks to be subpar crimping around the outside of the plastic body and the potmetal lower housing. The switch was made in Mexico if I recall correctly. There was a problem with the switch that I had to correct. Inside the switch were the lock tumbler fit the apron or tumbler locking tab stuck out to far or was not milled to proper specs to allow the tumbler lock to fit in behind it. I had to grind it out with a dremel tool to get the tumbler to go past it and fall into place. The wiring however was a direct plug and play there was an extra terminal but it was not used. It may take the place of the hot center post for acc. in later model trucks. I do believe that the windshield wiper switch does have a wire comming from it with an eyelet connector that does go onto the center post on the ignition switch.

Edit You might have to take a pocket knife or razor and scrape off some of that paint to see the true color of the wires. Keep in mind after so many years of use the wires on a good day are so discolored it is hard to to tell what they are for sure even without paint all over them. some times if you trace the wire back to where it may be taped to other wires or a junction you will be able to see the color on the wire. Usually the further away from an electircal connection point the colors will become more visable.

 

Sometimes a little lacquer thinner on a rag and a light touch can clean off the overspray enough to see the pretty colors too.