I have a new question reguarding the Ignition switch and the load it can handle.

Hook up to the back threaded part of the ignition switch is the cig lighter, three dead end wires, wiper switch, volt meter, some into the gauges, electic choke, tach, and one more empty wire.

Also the yellow wire out of the ignition switch harness is melted and the harness is also melted a little.

Is this to much load of the switch, I don't see any big wires to support the load?

Could someone tell what should and should not be hooked to the back of the ignition switch?

 

I forgot to add that the small fuse panel hook up to the back threaded part. Wow that is alot of wires and power.

 

Man, where to start? Firstly, welcome to FTE and the world of butchered, rotten and cooked wiring harnesses. Go to Sears and buy a digital volt meter. These cost about 40 bucks and are worth their weight in gold, last for years and will make the next few years of your life much more enjoyable. Trust me on this one! Melted wires are bad, really bad and can cause a fire that will destroy your truck or worse. Learn about relays! These are simple devices and once you understand them you will stick them everywhere on your old Ford. Like in the electric choke circuit, unless you prefer using alternator output. Don’t use the cigar lighter, unscrew the wire for this and if you smoke, quit. The wiper should be powered by the ignition switch on and the wiper switch. Gages should be powered by the ignition switch on. In the start position power should go to the starter relay and from the I side of the starter relay to the + side of the coil. Ignition switch on you should have 6-8 volts to the points. If you have an original AMP gage a big wire should run from the positive side of the starter relay through the AMP gage to the fuse box. The wire from the fuse box to the ignition switch is power to the switch and will be hot (battery voltage) all the time. There is much more, post back, we really enjoy learning how these challenges turn out. And don't get frustrated and rip out all the wires!

 

FWIW,

Regardless of how much power one may think is going through the rotary style FoMoCo ignition switch it can not exceed the Max Capacity of the vehicles electrical power output. Nominally 14.8V with a Max Efficiency Alternator X total allowed Amps of V-Reg.

Unlike the stupid Buss Style switches used since the 1980's. the older rotary switches will fall apart and/ or wear out but I have never seen one burn down unless something else in the system shorted out for a long period of time.

The newer Buss style swutches are so frail as to be dangerous, although bussed current is better for digital equipment, or so they claim.

FBp