does the f250 have enough payload for these pinweights?

 

If you go by the door sticker on a crew cab F250 which is likely 10,000GVWR then it depends. The truck usually weighs in at around 8,000 pounds empty, maybe a couple hundred less or more depending on lots of things obviously. So, most of the time we are limited to only adding 2,000 pounds of weight to the vehicle. Technically we can go right to 10,000 pounds not including the driver, that's free weight not counted.

So, a 2500 pin weight means that the truck alone must weigh 7500 with passengers and gear/fuel.

But, the F250 is basically identical to an F350 SRW which is rated for 11,500. Allowing for a pin weight up to 4,000 pounds on a 7500 pound truck. So lots of us kinda skirt the door sticker. Only big question mark is making sure the rear axle, wheels, and tires are not overloaded. If I remember right the rear axle is good for 6,750. I may be off a bit, just going by memory.

(I am not a lawyer or a DOT representative and in no way do I condone breaking the law, I do not support reckless behavior and the info in my post will not insulate anyone from a lawsuit, I accept zero liability.)

 

I was thinking the same thing, and would prefer the 350 for such applications. I'm sure the 250 can do it but its gonna be hard not to exceed the payload after adding passengers and any other cargo.

 

I have a 35 foot Fuzion, which is an upgraded Raptor, both made by Keystone.

I can tell you that you are either exactly at or over the payload limit for the F250.
I tried towing my Fuzion with an 08 F250 and it was unsafe. I traded in for an F350.

I did not install airbags on the F250, I am not big on re-engineering suspension to overload the original design. Lots of people will tell you about safety margins that are "built in" and so on, don't believe it.

But to your OP, like a lot of people, it sounds like you have too much air in the bags, the suspension is topping out on rebound.

Remember, the shock valving was designed to dampen with the stock spring rates NOT the new spring rate with the air bags.

Every time you change something, many other things are affected.

 

MarkieMark

As others have posted, weigh your truck/trailer.
If you go to a CAT scale (truck stops) you can weigh your truck and trailer and then go find a spot to drop the trailer, go back to the scale and let them know you are doing a "re-weigh".

Most CAT scales only charge a dollar for this 2nd weigh.

Weigh your rig MAXED out with everything you would possibly bring camping, including a full water tank. This will give you a baseline of where you need to start. Bring your garage full of toys too. Adding weight in your garage will take weight off of your pin/hitch, but it is not 1 for 1.

One of my camping buddies (and fellow toy hauler) has put together an excellent page on the safety of towing with various "fill in the blanks" charts and instructions on how to weigh your rig.
It's all free - check it out.

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If you want I can dig out various wights I have that I got while checking my toy hauler with my garage empty, 1/2 loaded and full loaded.

You are still way too high at 100 psi, and trying to bring your truck to original height is counter productive.

Doesn't matter what series truck you have, it is made to carry "X" amount of weight over the rear axle. When there is no additional weight the ride height is high. Trying to bring back that unloaded ride height with 2500+ pounds in the bed with air bags will give you the problems you are experiencing.

F-250/350 SRW's ride high in the rear to begin with.

Try filling you bags to make the truck level with the load and see how it goes.

Are you using a short bed truck? If so are you using a auto sliding hitch like the PullRite?
If so I would not recommend the TrailAir with the Tri-glide.

Had it -hated it, but that is a different thread.

 

Man, can't thank yall enough for all your valuable info./help. I'm definitely going to get the rig and truck weighed and find out where I stand. However, it is what it is, too late for another truck and I love my Raptor. I don't feel like it is dangerous by any means but have to get rid of the bucking or whatever you call it. Seems logical though to just get things leveled out and not back to original ride height as well as less air in the bags. I'm thinking/hoping that takes care of it. Once again, thanks.

Hey Jaybread, did you ever find out anything with your wind noise?

 

Yes-
They installed a wind insulator, which is a replacement weatherstripping piece that goes from front of door on cowling up to the top rear corner.
It mounts on the door frame not the door.
I will post the part number later.

 

Never mind Jaybread, I just caught up on your thread. Will definitely talk to my service guy about this wind insulator deal for my truck. Thanks, Mark