I have the navigation & premium audio in my Super Duty. I am ordering new speakers to replace the fronts and rears. I'll work on the sub later. I've decided to order Infinity Components for the front and a coax for the rear. I will swap leave the stock rear door tweeters installed and hooked up by swapping over the stock crossover board to the new Infinity rears. I will be soldering everything and not using and stock or aftermarket connectors.
Questions:

1. Any tutorials or recommendations for removing the front door panels?
2. Any tutorials or recommendations for getting easy access to the rear speakers on the side of the seat?
3. Any mounting recommendations for replacing the stock tweeters in the front door pods?

Thanks!

 

Front panels are easy. 4 bolts-7mm. 2 at the bottom and 2 under little access panel in the middle. Lift up on the panel and it should come off easily. I haven't had the back off yet.

 

Why are you choosing 2-way's for the rears and leaving the tweeters? Does anybody even know what the cutoff frequency is on the stock rear setup? I think it's just a simple single-pole filter, so it's easily calculated if the parts are marked.

 

For me, the rear panel is easier to deal with if you remove the seat belt pulley at the top. The rest is figuring out where all the snap connectors are. It's not that bad.

The best thing to do is to wait on the rears until you figure out your sub. Taking the rear seats out makes it all much easier to do.

And the tweeters in front, my Polk tweets are 1" and all I had to do is drill a 1" hole where the factory tweet was. Recessed mount that came with the speakers looks great.

 

With the rear speakers next to the seat the back needs all the help it can get. If I dont like them I will disconnect one set of tweets, either the ones on the coax or the ones in the doors. Snip snip.

 

I have the stereo replaced and am quite happy with the results. I did the Infinity components up front. I went with the coaxials in the back but wish I would have went components back there too.

Front:
Fit fine. One of the included tweeter mounting brackets actually works perfect to mount the Infinity tweeters in the OEM pods.

Rear:
Mounted up perfect. I popped the stock high pass tweeter crossover off the stock speaker and soldered it up to the Infinity coax. Sounds a lot better back there.

Sub:
I went with the Rockford Fosgate Puch P3 DVC 2-Ohm Shallow Mount sub. I am using their new PBR300X1 mono sub amp to drive it at 1ohm. That amp is rather amazing and the size of these new common rail amps for the wattage you receive is unbelievable. The birth sheet was 326 watts RMS at 1-ohm bridged. I put the sub into a Q-Logic truck box designed for shallow subs and stuffed it full of polyfill. As you can see the box BARELY fit but its a perfect fit. I did cut away the stock cover around the box, removed the vent and installed dynamat. If anyone is looking for an off the shelf speaker box do not buy one any taller than this one or any deeper or it will not work. I was not concerned about losing the stock jack as I carry a 12 Ton bottle jack. Using a slide-in bed camper that stock jack was not going to help me out at all if I blew a rear tire. There is actually more room to store things with this setup than the stock IMHO.

For the amplifier signal connection I tapped into the stock sub + and - signal using 3M scotchlocks. I set the amp for line level and did not even use a remote turn on. The amp detects the signal and turns on automatically. I adjusted the turn on voltage and do not get any pops during turn on or off. That could not have been easier. I adjusted the gain using my DMM to the proper AC voltage per some online calculators. I ran the remote bass adjustment **** wire up to that useless pocket in front of my right knee and mounted the adjuster there. The whole setup looks 100% stock from outside.

All in all I am quite happy and the investment was not that large shopping online and doing the work myself. Install was easy and not very time consuming.

 

Looks good!

After reading this, I checked the install manual on my line converter and sure enough, it does the same thing you have posted above, and has a line out for the amp to boot. I'll be disconnecting my turn on wire this morning, maybe it'll get rid of my sub pop when I turn off the truck. Thanks!

EDIT - Well, disconnecting the remote turn and relying on the unit to sense the signal didn't get rid of my sub thump when shutting the truck off, darn. I'll have to tap into an ignition source in the fuse box for the turn on/off. It was worth a shot though...