Coolant Filter
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,066
Likes: 240
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
And That was about the only thing I didnt do is reverse flush right at the Oil Cooler to EGR Cooler port to clear the oil cooler it might of helped IDK.
My plan was to change the oil cooler at that time too so I didnt worrey about reverse flush at the oil cooler. In Fact I was hoping that the oil cooler would catch all the junk and I would just pull the oil cooler and put a new one in. And looking at the pics from cutting it open it caught all the junk and I dont think I would have been able to reverse flush the oil cooler and have much affect on it It was to far gone
I'm hitting easy street
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,395
Likes: 27
From: Central Oregon
Watch this area!
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,066
Likes: 240
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Javo that moter looks nice and clean and the Coolant filter instal looks good too.
Did you buy the coolant filter kit or peice it together on your own
I really like the filter head
compared to my napa one I got maybe I should paint mine filter head
Did you buy the coolant filter kit or peice it together on your own
I really like the filter head
compared to my napa one I got maybe I should paint mine filter head
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
Good point, thank you. I will double check that line over the CAC tube. I believe it sits about 1/4" above because I have it secured just out of the picture.
Blade, thanks for the compliments. I'm a HUGE believer in a clean motor. I have had debates with friends and have read debates on FTE regarding washing the motor. I wash my motor at least once a month and have had no problems. In my mind a clean motor runs better, I also like to paint the components of my motor.
In regards to your question, my setup is "homemade". I bought the parts from a few different places, made the mount and put it all together. I did paint the the filter body before assembly and installation. If you want more info I'll be happy to post it.
Blade, thanks for the compliments. I'm a HUGE believer in a clean motor. I have had debates with friends and have read debates on FTE regarding washing the motor. I wash my motor at least once a month and have had no problems. In my mind a clean motor runs better, I also like to paint the components of my motor.
In regards to your question, my setup is "homemade". I bought the parts from a few different places, made the mount and put it all together. I did paint the the filter body before assembly and installation. If you want more info I'll be happy to post it.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
I can't really say I have a secret of some sort. When I first bought the truck about a year ago the bay was pretty dirty so I went to the car wash with a ladder and spent about twenty minutes with the pressure washer. When I wash the motor I do it in the mornings and the car wash is about three minutes away, this way my motor and turbo don't get too hot. Once I got everything clean it was just a matter of maintaining it. I wash my truck at least once a week and I wash my motor about once a month. I don't armor all, that just collects dust.
Nice thing is, if my truck has a leak or drip... I know it! Believe me, I look 3-4 times a week to make sure.
Nice thing is, if my truck has a leak or drip... I know it!
Believe me, I look 3-4 times a week to make sure.
New User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Frederick Md.
If you have good oil cooler "deltas" right now, I would just do a light flush. If you take it to Ford they are more then likely to do a VC-9 flush on it. VC-9 is a flush agent designed to break up rust scale and oxidation. If you don't have an oil temp issue now doing a VC-9 flush would probably cause one.
I would just recommend flushing out the system a couple times with water, then replacing with some concentrated extended life anti-freeze.
No matter what you decide to do a coolant filter is a good investment. There are few different ones out there. I've used the Sinister and PMM coolant filters. The Sinister kits have had some issues with the lines leaking, just take them apart and apply some teflon tape or goo before you install it. The PMM filter kits are kind of nice because you don't have to cut your stock lines to install it. Either way the kits are very easy to install and should take less then a half hour to do.
I would just recommend flushing out the system a couple times with water, then replacing with some concentrated extended life anti-freeze.
No matter what you decide to do a coolant filter is a good investment. There are few different ones out there. I've used the Sinister and PMM coolant filters. The Sinister kits have had some issues with the lines leaking, just take them apart and apply some teflon tape or goo before you install it. The PMM filter kits are kind of nice because you don't have to cut your stock lines to install it. Either way the kits are very easy to install and should take less then a half hour to do.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 740
Likes: 92
Good point, thank you. I will double check that line over the CAC tube. I believe it sits about 1/4" above because I have it secured just out of the picture.
Blade, thanks for the compliments. I'm a HUGE believer in a clean motor. I have had debates with friends and have read debates on FTE regarding washing the motor. I wash my motor at least once a month and have had no problems. In my mind a clean motor runs better, I also like to paint the components of my motor.
In regards to your question, my setup is "homemade". I bought the parts from a few different places, made the mount and put it all together. I did paint the the filter body before assembly and installation. If you want more info I'll be happy to post it.
Blade, thanks for the compliments. I'm a HUGE believer in a clean motor. I have had debates with friends and have read debates on FTE regarding washing the motor. I wash my motor at least once a month and have had no problems. In my mind a clean motor runs better, I also like to paint the components of my motor.
In regards to your question, my setup is "homemade". I bought the parts from a few different places, made the mount and put it all together. I did paint the the filter body before assembly and installation. If you want more info I'll be happy to post it.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
Okay, I have most all of the part numbers put together, had to dig out my receipts. So here you go:<O
</O
1 X Baldwin Coolant Filter Base<O</O
Grainger Part #4ZPF2 $38.25<O</O
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BALDWIN-FILTERS-Coolant-Filter-Base-4ZPF2?Pid=search<O</O
<O</O
2 X Ball Valve, Brass, 3/8 In NPT Male x Female<O</O
Grainger Part #1PYX2 $8.79ea<O</O
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1pyx2&op=search&Ntt=1pyx2 &N=0&sst=subset<O</O
<O</O
2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Barb x MPT Adapter<O</O
Home Depot Part #545953 $2.68ea<O</O
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616567/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O</O
<O</O
2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Square-Head Plug<O</O
Home Depot Part #552240 $2.25ea<O</O
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O</O
<O</O
1 X 1/2 In. Pex Brass Tee<O</O
Home Depot Part #638341 $1.66ea<O</O
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100554460/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O</O
<O</O
1 X 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/2 in. Pex Brass Tee<O</O
Home Depot Part #360502 $4.43ea<O</O
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202300049/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O</O
<O</O
This list is the basics to put the filter together. This list does NOT include the 8 hose clamps, coolant filter or mounting hardware. For the coolant filter, I was talking with the manager (I’ve known for years) of an Advance Auto by my house and he went into detail as to why the Purolator filter was a better quality so that’s what I ordered. I’m sure many on here would disagree, I can tell you I’ve been happy with it’s performance. For the mounting bracket I had to make that one and I am looking for my pictures and/or info that I used. Basically I made a mounting plate for the filter base to attach to and then riveted that to the piece that is screwed to the frame. If you need the info, I’ll dig that up.<O</O
<O</O
BTW – I checked again tonight and my outlet hose does NOT touch my CAC tube. It clears it by about ½ inch. I did this by using two rubber insulated clamps. One is clamped to my coolant filter hose and the other is attached to an aluminum line that goes to my AC condenser. This secured my hose and keeps it from touching other things in the bay such as the CAC tube. Here is an idea of those rubber insulated clamps, I’d go take a pic but it’s dark and snowing here.<O</O
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=rubber+insulated+clamps&selectedCat gry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1<O</O
<O</O
Hopefully this helps, let me know if you have any questions or need more info.<O</O
</O1 X Baldwin Coolant Filter Base<O
</OGrainger Part #4ZPF2 $38.25<O
</Ohttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BALDWIN-FILTERS-Coolant-Filter-Base-4ZPF2?Pid=search<O
</O<O
</O2 X Ball Valve, Brass, 3/8 In NPT Male x Female<O
</OGrainger Part #1PYX2 $8.79ea<O
</Ohttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1pyx2&op=search&Ntt=1pyx2 &N=0&sst=subset<O
</O<O
</O2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Barb x MPT Adapter<O
</OHome Depot Part #545953 $2.68ea<O
</Ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616567/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O
</O<O
</O2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Square-Head Plug<O
</OHome Depot Part #552240 $2.25ea<O
</Ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O
</O<O
</O1 X 1/2 In. Pex Brass Tee<O
</OHome Depot Part #638341 $1.66ea<O
</Ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100554460/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O
</O<O
</O1 X 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/2 in. Pex Brass Tee<O
</OHome Depot Part #360502 $4.43ea<O
</Ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202300049/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<O
</O<O
</OThis list is the basics to put the filter together. This list does NOT include the 8 hose clamps, coolant filter or mounting hardware. For the coolant filter, I was talking with the manager (I’ve known for years) of an Advance Auto by my house and he went into detail as to why the Purolator filter was a better quality so that’s what I ordered. I’m sure many on here would disagree, I can tell you I’ve been happy with it’s performance. For the mounting bracket I had to make that one and I am looking for my pictures and/or info that I used. Basically I made a mounting plate for the filter base to attach to and then riveted that to the piece that is screwed to the frame. If you need the info, I’ll dig that up.<O
</O<O
</OBTW – I checked again tonight and my outlet hose does NOT touch my CAC tube. It clears it by about ½ inch. I did this by using two rubber insulated clamps. One is clamped to my coolant filter hose and the other is attached to an aluminum line that goes to my AC condenser. This secured my hose and keeps it from touching other things in the bay such as the CAC tube. Here is an idea of those rubber insulated clamps, I’d go take a pic but it’s dark and snowing here.<O
</Ohttp://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=rubber+insulated+clamps&selectedCat gry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1<O
</O<O
</OHopefully this helps, let me know if you have any questions or need more info.<O
</O
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 740
Likes: 92
Okay, I have most all of the part numbers put together, had to dig out my receipts. So here you go:<o</o
1 X Baldwin Coolant Filter Base<o</o
Grainger Part #4ZPF2 $38.25<o</o
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BALDWIN-FILTERS-Coolant-Filter-Base-4ZPF2?Pid=search<o</o
<o</o
2 X Ball Valve, Brass, 3/8 In NPT Male x Female<o</o
Grainger Part #1PYX2 $8.79ea<o</o
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1pyx2&op=search&Ntt=1pyx2 &N=0&sst=subset<o</o
<o</o
2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Barb x MPT Adapter<o</o
Home Depot Part #545953 $2.68ea<o</o
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616567/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o</o
<o</o
2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Square-Head Plug<o</o
Home Depot Part #552240 $2.25ea<o</o
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o</o
<o</o
1 X 1/2 In. Pex Brass Tee<o</o
Home Depot Part #638341 $1.66ea<o</o
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100554460/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o</o
<o</o
1 X 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/2 in. Pex Brass Tee<o</o
Home Depot Part #360502 $4.43ea<o</o
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202300049/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o</o
<o</o
This list is the basics to put the filter together. This list does NOT include the 8 hose clamps, coolant filter or mounting hardware. For the coolant filter, I was talking with the manager (I’ve known for years) of an Advance Auto by my house and he went into detail as to why the Purolator filter was a better quality so that’s what I ordered. I’m sure many on here would disagree, I can tell you I’ve been happy with it’s performance. For the mounting bracket I had to make that one and I am looking for my pictures and/or info that I used. Basically I made a mounting plate for the filter base to attach to and then riveted that to the piece that is screwed to the frame. If you need the info, I’ll dig that up.<o</o
<o</o
BTW – I checked again tonight and my outlet hose does NOT touch my CAC tube. It clears it by about ½ inch. I did this by using two rubber insulated clamps. One is clamped to my coolant filter hose and the other is attached to an aluminum line that goes to my AC condenser. This secured my hose and keeps it from touching other things in the bay such as the CAC tube. Here is an idea of those rubber insulated clamps, I’d go take a pic but it’s dark and snowing here.<o</o
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=rubber+insulated+clamps&selectedCat gry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1<o</o
<o</o
Hopefully this helps, let me know if you have any questions or need more info.<o</o
</o1 X Baldwin Coolant Filter Base<o
</oGrainger Part #4ZPF2 $38.25<o
</ohttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BALDWIN-FILTERS-Coolant-Filter-Base-4ZPF2?Pid=search<o
</o<o
</o2 X Ball Valve, Brass, 3/8 In NPT Male x Female<o
</oGrainger Part #1PYX2 $8.79ea<o
</ohttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1pyx2&op=search&Ntt=1pyx2 &N=0&sst=subset<o
</o<o
</o2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Barb x MPT Adapter<o
</oHome Depot Part #545953 $2.68ea<o
</ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616567/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o
</o<o
</o2 X Watts 3/8 in. Brass Square-Head Plug<o
</oHome Depot Part #552240 $2.25ea<o
</ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100616553/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o
</o<o
</o1 X 1/2 In. Pex Brass Tee<o
</oHome Depot Part #638341 $1.66ea<o
</ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100554460/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o
</o<o
</o1 X 1 in. x 1 in. x 1/2 in. Pex Brass Tee<o
</oHome Depot Part #360502 $4.43ea<o
</ohttp://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202300049/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053<o
</o<o
</oThis list is the basics to put the filter together. This list does NOT include the 8 hose clamps, coolant filter or mounting hardware. For the coolant filter, I was talking with the manager (I’ve known for years) of an Advance Auto by my house and he went into detail as to why the Purolator filter was a better quality so that’s what I ordered. I’m sure many on here would disagree, I can tell you I’ve been happy with it’s performance. For the mounting bracket I had to make that one and I am looking for my pictures and/or info that I used. Basically I made a mounting plate for the filter base to attach to and then riveted that to the piece that is screwed to the frame. If you need the info, I’ll dig that up.<o
</o<o
</oBTW – I checked again tonight and my outlet hose does NOT touch my CAC tube. It clears it by about ½ inch. I did this by using two rubber insulated clamps. One is clamped to my coolant filter hose and the other is attached to an aluminum line that goes to my AC condenser. This secured my hose and keeps it from touching other things in the bay such as the CAC tube. Here is an idea of those rubber insulated clamps, I’d go take a pic but it’s dark and snowing here.<o
</ohttp://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=rubber+insulated+clamps&selectedCat gry=SEARCH+ALL&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&Ntpc=1&Ntpr=1<o
</o<o
</oHopefully this helps, let me know if you have any questions or need more info.<o
</o
I can make something up for the bracket, I am sure we have some spare alum. stock at work laying around that I can TIG into a bracket.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 213
Likes: 1
Make sure the part number for the barbed 3/8 male adapter is right. The description matches what you need but the pic doesn't look right. Just verify it's the right one.
Let me know if you need more info, I'm glad to help.
Let me know if you need more info, I'm glad to help.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 740
Likes: 92
