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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #1  
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no fire

91 f-150 5.0L
I'm stumped...changed my thermostat after it stuck open and replaced the faulty temperature sender. In doing so got coolant on the motor so decided to rinse off (thought I was careful and didn't soak the cap- rinsed mostly the block and intake around the water pump and thermostat). Tried to start it and had no fire. Thought no big deal and took distributor cap off to dry it and noticed it was in rough shape. Replaced the original cap and rotor with a new one. Left it off for the afternoon to get out any moisture. Still no fire. Tried the hairdryer and still no fire. Checked and dried the plug on the ignition module on the distributor and still no fire. Tried different coil wire with no luck.

Tried again today and still no fire.

It has to be from water getting in somewhere but usually a distributor would dry fairly quick, right? Any suggestions?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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Getting it little wet like you did shouldn't have caused a loss of spark.

Do you have power to the coil? key in both run and start positions?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Thanks danr1 for the reply. What is the best way to check power to the coil as you describe? (I apologize in advance for my ignorance)

Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by D Ray
Thanks danr1 for the reply. What is the best way to check power to the coil as you describe? (I apologize in advance for my ignorance)

Thanks.
Use a meter or simple test light, check for battery voltage at Red-lt green wire "positive side" of coil with the key turned to Run and start.

If not suggests a blown fuse link (brown) at fender mounted starter relay or issue with the ignition switch itself.

If no power to coil in run or start suggests blown fuse link, if power in run but not start that would suggest the switch as the problem.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:23 AM
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Thanks, I'll try that.

And just to be clear, it is turning over but no spark. Getting fuel but no spark.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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This is the perfect use for WD-40. Most likely you got some inside the ignition cap, near the coil or along the wires where they are older and breaking down.

Remove the cap and give the inside a light coat of WD-40, make sure you get the underneath side with the posts too. Re-install the cap and I bet she starts. You can also spray the topside of the cap, all of the boots and around the outside of the distributor. A little attention at the coil where the wire boots into it may be helpful too.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 09:36 AM
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It's possible that the plug/connector for the distributor got a little water inside, may have damaged the PIP circuit when you powered up. Part 5 -Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM)....you could also check for codes, 14 I think is the PIP
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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Thanks slip ford man. It is very possible the connector got wet. I will try the test explained in the link and post what I find.

one quick dumb question...Is is possible to replace the stator without pulling the distributor? It it's just the ICM (and not the PIP) i believe can replace it without pulling it.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:22 PM
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nevermind the dumb question... I just answered it. The distributor does have to be pulled.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:43 AM
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fixed!

It was the ICM. Thanks to all who replied!

Slip ford man, that link to testing the ICM was most helpful!!!
 
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