Frustrating starting problem
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New User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Last weekend I was driving my 1983 F250 5.8 on a bumpy road and suddenly the truck died and won't restart. I had it towed home and have not been able to start it. I check for spark, there is no spark. I changed the ignition module, no luck. I checked the coil resistance 1.5ohm between coil and about 8.7kohm to coil HT terminal. I checked the magnetic pickup, with the wire disconnected to it, I get 12vac back which I think is good. I have checked all fuses. The starter cranks but just didnt fully start engine. Pls help. any help will be appreciated. I am continuing to check wires etc. I think it has a Duraspark III system.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,415
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From: Comox Valley, Canada
Frustrating starting problem
How about the rotor button, the distributor cap or the coil to distributor wire???
Could be a bad ignition switch. If you have a lot of keys attached to the ignition key, this extra weight over time has been known to kill the switch. Especially if you are driving over bumpy roads
Are you getting 12 volts to the coil for starting? You can measure this at the coil + terminal.
Sparky
Could be a bad ignition switch. If you have a lot of keys attached to the ignition key, this extra weight over time has been known to kill the switch. Especially if you are driving over bumpy roads
Are you getting 12 volts to the coil for starting? You can measure this at the coil + terminal.
Sparky
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,157
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From: Central Kali
Frustrating starting problem
The 12vac output from the distributor sounds too high. I checked one with a scope and think I had about 3v peak to peak. The manual says to use a dc voltmeter on the 2.5v scale. When cranking, the needle should oscillate. Also, the resistence of the pickup coil should be between 400 to 800 ohms. The third wire is the system ground, check for 0 ohms. The resistence of either pickup lead to ground should be over 70,000 ohms.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 258
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From: Allegan Michigan
Frustrating starting problem
EEC Relay? just a thaught. Open the hood in a quiet place and turn the key on. You should hear the fuel pump kick in for a few seconds until the fuel pressure switch kicks it off. If you don't hear the pump kick in check the EEC relay first and then the fuel pump relay if it is not the EEC relay. Both of these relays are known to go bad.
Good luck
Good luck
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New User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Thanks guys. I am still at it. I have just got a full electrical wiring diag for the truck and plan to check everything out today. stay tuned. I have brought 2 mechanics over to look it over they can't figure it out yet. I let you know what i find.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Cyberbryd, where is the EEC relay? are you talking about the starter relay or power relay on the driver side fender. Is this the relay on the fuse map? Anyway I rechecked the magnetic pickup yesterday it has about 300millivolts when the engine cranks (used an AC voltmeter). What is a typical volt output when everything is good? I also rechecked the ignition coil resistance its about 1.3ohm but the volt across it when engine cranks is about 9V. The chilton repair manual said it should be 6-8V. What will cause the voltage to be more? Appreciate all the help. I bought a new Ignition switch. I try that too.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Elizabeth City, NC
Frustrating starting problem
During start-up 12VDC from the battery is applied to the coil via the starter relay "I" terminal. During normal running condition 12 VDC is supplied to the coil via the ignition switch but is dropped to 6-9 VDC by use of a ballast resistor or resistor wire.
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
#88 Dale Jarrett
#21 Elliott Sadler
#97 Kurt Busch
#28 Ricky Rudd
Russell
1968 F250 LWB 300-6
FORD=First on Race Day
#88 Dale Jarrett
#21 Elliott Sadler
#97 Kurt Busch
#28 Ricky Rudd
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New User
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Has anyone removed a crankshaft sensor from a 1983 F250 351 before. I tried to remove and replace mine yesterday but was so hard. Its underneath the engine near the alternator. I removed the one bolt with a fork clamp holding it down. I was able to push the end of the probe that sticks out to the tooth but that was it. the rest wont come out. It doesnt look like there is anything else holding it but wont come out. Also there is another bracket around the block that hold the crankshaft sensor. It looks like its for holding another probe or sensor but there is nothing on it. But the shaft is slotted and machine for a sensor. Even though I didnt see any other wire hanging in that area, I thinking may be I am missing a sensor/probe. All help is appreciated. You guys have very helpful.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
The misery continues. But I am making progress. I had replaced the ignition switch and tried a new coil. But havent solved the problem. But today I decided to rip off the cover on the manual shift cover for alook. I found a plug with 3 wires (red with white, black with white and black) I think it belong to the neutral safety switch but not sure because I didnt see any switch around where i found the cable. Has anyone replaced this switch before? how did you do it?
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Frustrating starting problem
Yes the white/red wire is part of the nuetral safety switch.
I think the other is for the B/U lights.
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I think the other is for the B/U lights.
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Thanks, Does the 1983 F250 manual shift actually have a neutral safety switch or the cable is just hanging there? because I still cant find the cable. How do I bypass the switch?
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Frustrating starting problem
Tyhe switch for the manual tranny should be near the back of the transmission.
To by-pass this you have to have a short loop wire.
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To by-pass this you have to have a short loop wire.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
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From: Denver
Frustrating starting problem
if the switch was bad then the engine won't crank at all, the flow goes through the neut. switch before it goes to the starter.
Robert
72 F-100 W/ 86 5.0L W/AOD
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Robert
72 F-100 W/ 86 5.0L W/AOD
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Phila USA
Frustrating starting problem
Thanks Robert and all. The engine cranks, but no spark to fully start. Therefore I may rule out safety switch. I have one more day to work on it and if I dont get to start I will throw in towel and have it towed to a ford dealership 25miles away. Once again thanks to everybody for your help.
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