I'll just run down the list:

79 460, hotter cam(not sure what!) Edelbrock carb (again not sure of model), dual 3" exhaust running through some sort of turbo mufflers, 3sp AT. (sounds great!! and goes like stink!!)

1- is a new EGR readily available?
2- about prior post (EGR) with a carb like the edelbrock would defeating the EGR change running condition? (if I unplug it there is no change in the idle, or whistle for that matter) leak is coming from between the steel plate that the actuator is mounted to and the cast flange that bolts it to the manifold.(I just had a smart moment in realizing my possible lack of intelligence..(dumb question #1 from a professional mechanic...(more on that later) is the EGR the solenoid looking pot behind the carb, mounted to an ovalesque port in the middle of the back of the intake manifold???) again the truck is new and I am flying without a manual.

About the professional mechanic thing I am a Ferrari mechanic (hence the Ferrwrench!!) and believe it or not even in the 70's&80's they weren't as complicated as the American cars were when it came to emissions. and so far I find it easier tuning a 12cyl with twin distributors and 6 twin Webers than this truck, (believe it or not I have never owned a car that had emission controls on it before..in all of my 17 yrs of driving, and my co-workers have no clue about Ford trucks)

3 the PO had this motor set up to run on propane and gas, but all the propane equip has been removed(and I am assuming the edelbrock was put on after the fact), on the balncer he had painted TDC, and painted 12 deg BTDC, but not 6 as stated on the emissions tag on the hood??? seems to run like crap when timed to 6 and hard starts @12. 10 is good!

4 if I set the idle at a pleasurable speed when I put it in gear it lumps along then wants to die, if I raise the idle then it deisels like made and makes a long pronounced gasp when I turn it off...

5 if I am looking at the edelbrock the idle speed is on the right in the middle of the linkage? and the fast idle speed is where? seems to run real!!! fast (like 2500 plus)with the choke(electric) on. plus when I disconnect the vac adv, there is not change in engine speed, but advances fine when hooked up?

Sorry for the length but I have lots of ?'s, and its my daily driver so I want to enjoy it! I've had it for 4days..



79 Ford F250 Supercab longbed,baby blue,dark blue roof and factory mags sweet!

74 BMW 2002 almost there!

74 Honda CB550 mint

32 Desot SD six 4dr coupe 90 perc done.

Had:

78 F150 shortbed stepside (some old guy decided he like my lane better than his and totaled it 3days after I bought it)

71 F250 2wd Longbed 360 4spd. Still kicking myself for selling it, sometimes I make myself sick/

62 Chevy 1/2 ton 235ci 3 on the tree, swapped the motor myself on a gravel driveway, try installing one of those hoodsby yourself(twice!!)

if youre bored work website:
www.bostonsportscar.com

 

Lets see what we can do with your laundry list...

FIRST THING- Get a manual!!! With your mechanical experience you could use a Chilton's or one of the OEM manuals available here on CD-ROM (better).


79 460, hotter cam(not sure what!) Edelbrock carb (again not sure of model), dual 3" exhaust running through some sort of turbo mufflers, 3sp AT. (sounds great!! and goes like stink!!)

-As it should!

1- is a new EGR readily available?

-Yes

2- about prior post (EGR) with a carb like the edelbrock would defeating the EGR change running condition?

-You will get a part throttle cruise engine ping that requires the distributor advance curves to be adjusted.

(if I unplug it there is no change in the idle, or whistle for that matter) leak is coming from between the steel plate that the actuator is mounted to and the cast flange that bolts it to the manifold.(I just had a smart moment in realizing my possible lack of intelligence..(dumb question #1 from a professional mechanic...(more on that later)

-The EGR will not make a change at idle. it is only operating at higher engine speeds at part throttle cruise.

Is the EGR the solenoid looking pot behind the carb, mounted to an ovalesque port in the middle of the back of the intake manifold???) again the truck is new and I am flying without a manual.

-Yes and get a manual

About the professional mechanic thing I am a Ferrari mechanic (hence the Ferrwrench!!) and believe it or not even in the 70's&80's they weren't as complicated as the American cars were when it came to emissions.

-Since they came in in limited numbers they probably bypassed the emissions laws.

and so far I find it easier tuning a 12cyl with twin distributors and 6 twin Webers than this truck, (believe it or not I have never owned a car that had emission controls on it before..in all of my 17 yrs of driving,

-It is all what I call a "Familiarity Factor" or a "Comfort zone". You "Know" the Ferraris and are familiar with them. When you have worked with your truck for a while you will see the parallels and gain familiarity.

and my co-workers have no clue about Ford trucks)

-I hope they are just "Import" people and not cough, ahem, urp, ahhh, -Cheby people...

3 the PO had this motor set up to run on propane and gas, but all the propane equip has been removed(and I am assuming the edelbrock was put on after the fact), on the balncer he had painted TDC, and painted 12 deg BTDC, but not 6 as stated on the emissions tag on the hood??? seems to run like crap when timed to 6 and hard starts @12. 10 is good!

-The sticker is all wrong now for this truck, you have found the advance it likes. If it does not have the OEM ignition box on it (blue grommet Duraspark) that would explain the hard start. The OEM box has a start mode spark retard function.

4 if I set the idle at a pleasurable speed when I put it in gear it lumps along then wants to die, if I raise the idle then it deisels like made and makes a long pronounced gasp when I turn it off...

-You need to perform a little carb idle mixture adjustment, get out your vacuum gage... I assume here you know how to use one

5 if I am looking at the edelbrock the idle speed is on the right in the middle of the linkage? and the fast idle speed is where?

-The fast idle speed screw will be on the stepped cam. The curb idle speed is against the casting if I remember right (it has been a while since I looked at mine).

seems to run real!!! fast (like 2500 plus)with the choke(electric) on.

-It sounds like the carb just was not adjusted after installation and is running with maybe the out of box settings.

plus when I disconnect the vac adv, there is not change in engine speed, but advances fine when hooked up?

-The advance vacuum line should be hooked up to a coolant temp controlled vac switch. When it is cold or real hot on some models the vacuum comes from a manifold vacuum port. When the engine is warm the vac signal should come from a venturi or ported vacuum source. Both vac signals are available right where the idle mix screws are at the base of the carb on the front.

Sorry for the length but I have lots of ?'s, and its my daily driver so I want to enjoy it! I've had it for 4days..

Good luck, GET A MANUAL -hehe, and have fun!

 

Your cool!!!!! Thanks millions, manual is on its way<loads of good info...I've got soem work ahead of me....thanks again CHris

yeah they are import guys(Alfa's, MG's....that kind of stuff, but my neighbors are Chevy guys......whats up with that?

As far as the carb idle mixture w/ the vacuum gauge?? Webers don't have vac ports..what s the procedure..I set it by screwing it in till she runs rough, then back out till idle is at max..no more.

thanks

 

Hook the gage to manifold vacuum. Tune each side back and forth while reducing the throttle idle stop as necessary to get max vacuum at your proper idle speed. When you find max vacuum you will also be looking at max idle speed for a given throttle opening. For a Ford, if I am not worried about HC emissions, I usually turn the screws to about 1/8-1/4 turn rich at idle from the middle of the max vac range.

Your manual may have a proceedure for this also.

My 2V Holley-Weber on the old VW had vac ports

Cheby guys usually don't have enough brains to work on a Ford. If they did they would be driving a Ford. IMHO the IQ of the average Cheby owner is 20 points lower than the average Ford owner.

"See the happy moron he doesn't give a damn..I wish I were a moron..my god!! perhaps I am."

Your sig seems to make it look like you WANT to be a Cheby owner...??? -hehe