In the begining...
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 22
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From: Gastonia, NC
In the begining...
Hello all! I'm a brand-new member, first timer. Just posted my gallery "in the begining". Bought this '66 Virginia F100 just to add another dimension to my 30+ year marriage - a little "sweet revenge". Paid $1,500 for it, the former owner had rebuilt the front suspension and 300 six - he doesn't think it's the original engine. The "3-on-the-tree" is fun getting used to, I left the truck at the tire shop for new treads and it took them a while to figure it out.
Anyway, as you can see I have a ways to go - I hope to get a little advice as I have been "out of the game" for decades - my last ride was a home-built '67 Plymouth Satellite pro-street car way back in the mid-70's. I never had to perform any body restoration, and this beast needs a bunch. My first request for some advice - surface rust on hood and cab top, how to get rid of? I have a cover for the truck, so I'm doing a great job preserving the rust...
Anyway, as you can see I have a ways to go - I hope to get a little advice as I have been "out of the game" for decades - my last ride was a home-built '67 Plymouth Satellite pro-street car way back in the mid-70's. I never had to perform any body restoration, and this beast needs a bunch. My first request for some advice - surface rust on hood and cab top, how to get rid of? I have a cover for the truck, so I'm doing a great job preserving the rust...
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
Hello Chief! Welcome to FTE!
to remove the surface rust...
i would use a DA or quarter sheet sander, depending on how bad the rust is you may need 80 grit or 150 grit paper. then spray bomb it with dupli-color self etching primer.
to remove the surface rust...
i would use a DA or quarter sheet sander, depending on how bad the rust is you may need 80 grit or 150 grit paper. then spray bomb it with dupli-color self etching primer.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,423
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From: Clarksville,Tn
Welcome aboard! Taking care of the rust issues as Bill mention is starting in the right direction. I personelly wouldn't cover it; unless you got some type home owner assiocation rule; this will only trap moisture. Also keep the bed angle to the back; it will reduce water & debris from standing in the front portion of the bed as well.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 22
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From: Gastonia, NC
Hey thanks for the welcome guys! Bill, I've got the sander and paper, I'll have to hunt down the Dupli-color primer - hopefully at Pep Boys. Deuceman, at the risk of offending any purists, I'm looking for a set of headers and a 4 bbl manifold setup, and a cam - the rear end is already geared low enough for some quick leaves. CC, not to worry about the bed floor - it's so "swiss-cheesed" it won't hold any water! Jo, thanks for the welcome. Hunting for a wire welder and a good stock of sheet metal - lots of panels to replace. Maybe replace the bed, and I need a tailgate...Happy New Year!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 9
From: Thornton, Colorado
Welcome Chief, Sounds like you are doing something close to mine. I have a 66 F-100 240 I-6 and 3 on the tree. I am trying to do everything I can to not damage the truck while restoring. I don't need it to be perfect, but nothing that can't be changed back without the use of a welder. So far mine is stock as the day is long except dual exhausts, (I used the 3 & 3 manifolds from a 1988 300 I-6), and I put delay wipers in it from a late 70's Ford truck. It all looks stock, and sounds great. Good luck with your truck. Post here when you have issues you can't solve, but search first. You would be amazed how many questions have been asked before.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Gastonia, NC
Hey "Bum" - thanks for the advice on doing searches, I'll definately do so. I'm interested in your 3x3 exhaust manifold deal - will they fit on my 300 six? I think this would definately be cheaper than the Clifford Research header set...not the same horsepower gain, but I can live with that.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 9
From: Thornton, Colorado
Hey "Bum" - thanks for the advice on doing searches, I'll definately do so. I'm interested in your 3x3 exhaust manifold deal - will they fit on my 300 six? I think this would definately be cheaper than the Clifford Research header set...not the same horsepower gain, but I can live with that.
I got mine from ebay. The 300/240 are the same block so they will work on yours also. The only way to tell the difference between a 300 and a 240 is to pull a head and check the piston size. It worked well for me.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
and check the piston size.Stroke: 240 = 3.18" / 300 = 3.98"
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Gastonia, NC
Thanks for the input guys! The former owner "rebuilt" the engine, which he states is a 300 that replaced the original 240. I had a '69 Econoline that I put a 300 and a C6 in - the thing was ugly but had lots of torque and was a blast to drive. This old truck is geared so low that I shift from 1st to 2nd at 20 mph, 2nd to 3rd at 35 - at 50 mph I still have plenty of "pull".
I'm going to start with a mild cam, stiff valve springs, and the 3 x 3 exhaust manifolds that Bum told me about. Hopefully I can find a used 4 bbl. intake & carb package. With the mods to the valvetrain, can anyone tell me what the max RPM might be?
I'm going to start with a mild cam, stiff valve springs, and the 3 x 3 exhaust manifolds that Bum told me about. Hopefully I can find a used 4 bbl. intake & carb package. With the mods to the valvetrain, can anyone tell me what the max RPM might be?
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New User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Gastonia, NC
Hey guys, hope everyone is happy and healthy! I've decided to chuck the "3-on-the-tree" - I just can't deal with the lousy gas mileage anymore. I need some direction on installing a "4-on-the-floor". Can I use the current bellhousing, flywheel, clutch assembly? What about clutch linkage, pivot points, etc.? When I head to the junkyard what transmission should I be looking for? I imagine there will be an ID tag I should look for?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 9
From: Thornton, Colorado
One thing you should be aware of is if you install an original 4 on the floor, you will have virtually the same gear set, plus a granny gear that is only good for pulling a load or tree stump pulling. You will have spent a lot of time and money, and you will have the same gas mileage.
I had a 5 speed in a 1988 F-250 that would have the effect you are hoping for. It was a true 5 speed. You had to start in first, and go through the gears, and 5th was a OD. That would help your mileage, but would be more work, and I don't know if you can put that 5 speed behind a 6 holer (It might be possible though) and I really have no idea if you could get it behind an FE. It was behind a 302 in the 1988 I had.
I had a 5 speed in a 1988 F-250 that would have the effect you are hoping for. It was a true 5 speed. You had to start in first, and go through the gears, and 5th was a OD. That would help your mileage, but would be more work, and I don't know if you can put that 5 speed behind a 6 holer (It might be possible though) and I really have no idea if you could get it behind an FE. It was behind a 302 in the 1988 I had.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
I just completed CeetWarrior's NV4500 5 speed transmission installation in my '66 LWB 352 powered F100 - and I love it. First gear is a granny so I start in 2nd, just like I did with the NP435 that used to be there. Since there's largely no difference in the gearing from 1st to 4th (between the NP435 and the NV4500), it's doubtful that gas mileage in town will improve. Fifth is overdrive so it really knocks the revs down on the highway. To my knowledge, the Advance Adapter plate that allows mating the Dodge/GM trans to the Ford bellhousing will work on FE engines (for sure), small block Ford V8s, and I think the 240/300 I 6s as well. Call Advance Adapters, (800) 350-2223, to be sure. One warning: 2012 costs to do the conversion (in my case) were a lot higher than when CeetWarrior did it in 2005. I was able to find the parts needed to use an old mechanical (custom made) speedo cable, where he was not. Still, I am really pleased with the results.