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Seem to make sense about matching the rotor to the hub, I just replaced the rotors, pads, and calipers on the back of my X as they looked like crap. The knuckle head that had the X before me did not know much about stopping. The front rotors are new(new when I purchase the X) and look fine, pads are new also. Before I replaced the rear rotors, the X had a shimmy after the rotors and brakes had heated up and had to do hard braking. Now that the rear has been done I still feel a bit of a shimmy, if before the shimmy was a 7 out 10(ten being really bad) it is now a 11/2 out 10. I think the remaining part of the problem is the front. Most people would just live with it, but I like things right and any shake bothers me no matter how minor.
Having your rotors machined on the car is the best way. Most high end repair places and dealerships have on car lathes that hooks up to your wheel studs then tighten down with the lug nuts. just remember Fords brakes are not the best no mater what if you tow alot and use your brakes on steep grades chances are your rotors will warp agine.
Having your rotors machined on the car is the best way. Most high end repair places and dealerships have on car lathes that hooks up to your wheel studs then tighten down with the lug nuts. just remember Fords brakes are not the best no mater what if you tow alot and use your brakes on steep grades chances are your rotors will warp agine.
Not sure that any vehcile manufacturer has really great brakes, but I also think that 50% of the problem is the operator. When I was still running my own company my 97 F250's rear brakes would still past inspection no problem at 101,000 and I towed with that truck on an average of 3 days a week. Thanks for the info on turning of the rotors, now I just have to find a shop that will do it, 2 of the places that I called today wanted to just replace them, and as I said they are almost new and don't want to just pitch them, and also see if this process is in fact true as the article states
I agree with you alot has to do with the driver. The major reason most shops wanna just replace rotors is there is a high mark up on the parts. There is very little profit on the labor only side. Also most smaller shop cant afford the high price of the on car brake lathe tool.
Cementite (hot spotting, black spotting, etc) and improper torque methods when putting rotors back on are other causes of the brake shimmy/pedal pulsation feel that many call "warped" rotors.
I've posted quite a bit on this problem in the Ex forum and a little bit in the 7.3L forum. If you do a search, use my name and the search criteria "cementite" and you'll pull up my previous posts.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.