Paint, body question.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Denton, TX
Paint, body question.
Okay guys. My lovely wife bought me a paint gun kit, an electric da sander for Christmas. So now the work begins! My question is what primer should I use? I am stripping back to Bare metal, I plan on priming the entire truck and setting it all aside and working on one piece at a time. I figure this will take me a few years with what little time I will have. I'm a novice so keep that in mind if there is a primer out there that is easier to spray.
Thanks
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,936
Likes: 9
From: Acworth, GA
I have been using a 2-part epoxy primer from SPI. I have found it to be of excellent quality, and a very reasonable price. Here is a link to their website; Home
A link to their forum; SPI User Forums
And a link to my project, so you can see some of their product in action; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html
I have been using a $50 Harbor Freight hvlp spray gun while spraying the primer. I'm not sure yet whether I will be spraying the paint or farming it out. I still have lots of body work to do before I get to that stage. Good luck with your project.
A link to their forum; SPI User Forums
And a link to my project, so you can see some of their product in action; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...build-log.html
I have been using a $50 Harbor Freight hvlp spray gun while spraying the primer. I'm not sure yet whether I will be spraying the paint or farming it out. I still have lots of body work to do before I get to that stage. Good luck with your project.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
Likes: 23
I use House of Kolors epoxy primers, to each their own but I tend to feel it's best to stay with one brand through the whole thing. Keeps things simple and helps to avoid using paint or clear coat that doesn't work properly with the primer or what's under it.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
While you will get good advise on here, especially in the paint forum. I would advise finding your local auto paint supply store. Most deal primarily with body shops and are knowledgeable in the products they sell. They can be very helpful working with you in the price range you choose. An experienced painter that uses one product that he is comfortable with, can order online saving some money, but he knows exactly what he wants. Hopefully your wife bought you a gun that is compatable for your compressor.
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Whatever brand you use, it needs to be an epoxy primer. Other primers are porous and will let any moisture through. When you're ready to work the part, you'll have to scuff the epoxy up some for anything to stick (filler, high build primer, paint). I use 80 grit for the scuffing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 261
From: East KY
Whatever brand you use, it needs to be an epoxy primer. Other primers are porous and will let any moisture through. When you're ready to work the part, you'll have to scuff the epoxy up some for anything to stick (filler, high build primer, paint). I use 80 grit for the scuffing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 3
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Doc brings up a good point. The self etching primer usually contains something like phosphoric acid to etch the metal. It will react with rust to neutralize it...even if it looks like you've sanded to bare metal, there might be rust in the pores of the metal.
An option is to use an acid wash when the metal is sanded bare...then neutralize it...then prime it with a good primer. Everyone on here has recommended a two part epoxy primer...I think they're right. If you have any serious rust problems the products like POR 15, Rust Mort, or Rust Bullet all include some form or acid wash pre-treatment.
Dan
An option is to use an acid wash when the metal is sanded bare...then neutralize it...then prime it with a good primer. Everyone on here has recommended a two part epoxy primer...I think they're right. If you have any serious rust problems the products like POR 15, Rust Mort, or Rust Bullet all include some form or acid wash pre-treatment.
Dan
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Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
I went the overkill route with our 41 - - - sandblasted, Ospho'd (phosphoric acid wash), self-etching primer, a little Evercoat Rage filler (easy to work with), epoxy, then bc/cc. I use POR's Metal Ready (another phosphoric acid) on the smaller parts because of its cost. Ospho does the same thing, you just have to wait longer to do anything with it, like 24 hrs.
If any of the parts are going to sit for any length of time, they really should have epoxy over them. The acid washes & self-etching primers don't work for long term storage or handling without a top coat.
If any of the parts are going to sit for any length of time, they really should have epoxy over them. The acid washes & self-etching primers don't work for long term storage or handling without a top coat.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,963
Likes: 261
From: East KY
Good info in this thread. Thanks. Why is it so hard for the paint/body crowd to agree on anything sometimes? If you ask 10 different people, they very well might give you 10 different answers. It's enough to drive a person nuts sometimes (well....in my case, that drive isn't very far at all). 
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Good info in this thread. Thanks. Why is it so hard for the paint/body crowd to agree on anything sometimes? If you ask 10 different people, they very well might give you 10 different answers. It's enough to drive a person nuts sometimes (well....in my case, that drive isn't very far at all).
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Lady Lake FL
Above is all good information, I will add the following that a long time paint man once told me. Make sure you have two guns, one for primer and one for finish. Primer will wear out a gun much quicker the finish paint. Usually what I do is when one project is done, the finish gun becomes my new primer gun.
Paul
Paul
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 5
From: Tucson AZ
All of this is good information, there are so many answers because there are so many good products out there. One that was not mentioned was the sprayable polyester filler which can be used on areas that don't need a lot of bodywork to be straight, it sprays like high build primer but (IMHO) sands much easier.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Also use the correct tip for primer and for top coat. Primers have lots of solids and need a larger tip, 1.7 or 1.8. Top coats and clear coats need a smaller tip to get better atomization, somewhere around a 1.2 usually works well. I use Eastwood which I have found to be less expensive and has very good support through email or phone. They have an amazing amount of product and can tell you what is compatible with what.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,614
Likes: 8,248
From: northwestern Ontario
I went the overkill route with our 41 - - - sandblasted, Ospho'd (phosphoric acid wash), self-etching primer, a little Evercoat Rage filler (easy to work with), epoxy, then bc/cc. I use POR's Metal Ready (another phosphoric acid) on the smaller parts because of its cost. Ospho does the same thing, you just have to wait longer to do anything with it, like 24 hrs.
If any of the parts are going to sit for any length of time, they really should have epoxy over them. The acid washes & self-etching primers don't work for long term storage or handling without a top coat.
If any of the parts are going to sit for any length of time, they really should have epoxy over them. The acid washes & self-etching primers don't work for long term storage or handling without a top coat.
OFF TOPIC I just want to say I've missed those flashy eyes. Oh ya definately use epoxy primer before anything else.