Got them in just now, haven't driven it yet tho. I'll let u know what I think of it tomorrow! Thanks again guys!

 

And it is the LMC harness

 

hey you did it.alright.wasn't too bad right?

 

Yea lol only took like an hour tops haha

 

probably a half hour was spent just climbing the ladder to reach the headlights.
hmm.i don't think the aftermarket likes you bricknose guys.i see some clear corners:
http://www.memoimports.com/mi/index....073C2&cat_id=8
but no clear headlights.that's not cool.
well get out the toothpaste or rubbing compound now,and rub the lenses like mad.this really helps clean 'em a lot too.

 

That's needed for sure, the lenses are oxidized and have water in them somehow. Maybe just buy new ones. Or I wonder if you can disassemble the lights so u can get a good buff going on them?

 

You want to buff the outsides using something like the 3M headlight kit. Unless you got something nasty inside them, its just water and shouldn't have damaged the inside any. Basically you lightly sand off the yellowed plastic, then buff away the scratches. I think harbor freight has a cheap kit, but if you're careful you can probably get at least 3 vehicles out of the 3M kit. I've done 2 already and still have life on the sanding parts, and some of the polish left too.

As for taking them apart, yes its possible. You have to go around and carefully pry apart where they were factory glued together. Then wipe all the water out of the inside. Drill one or two small holes at the bottom to allow for future drainage if needed. Then glue them back together. I think I just used RTV. The worst part I found was figuring out how to take them off the truck without completely disassembling the grill.

 

Thanks I'll give that a try

I did notice a difference while driving

Here is a before/after looking into lights on low while truck is running.

Before
<a href="http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/?action=view&current=b7aaa427.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/b7aaa427.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

After
<a href="http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/?action=view&current=995b42ea.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/995b42ea.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

 

A couple of points, "just water" if left inside the housings for too long will pit and corrode the reflector areas, and this cannot be repaired economically.

As for getting the water out, no need to separate the lens from the housing (way too much work). Simply remove the bulb to allow a path for air to get in/out, and heat the housing. This can be done by several different ways. If the housing is already off the vehicle, place it in a WARM oven (125-130 degrees F) for an hour or so. If dirty inside, you may want to wash out the housing first with some dishsoap and water, and then rinse with distilled water (won't leave hard water deposits) or soft water if you have it.

If the headlights are still on the vehicle, my favorite method is to use those 300W halogen worklamps on a stand, aimed at the lens. No closer than a foot away so you don't melt them!

If you really want to speed up the process, add blowing air into the bulb opening. I have an old blower (induced draft blower) out of my dead house furnace that I connect a section of vacuum cleaner hose to and I use that to blow air into the housing while heating it. Works great!

 

Thats all well and good to dry them, but if water got in once, its going to get in again. And if there is enough water in there to sit around and corrode the reflector, they really do need to be resealed. I want to say mine has had condensation inside the lens since I bought it (4 years) and the reflectors where fine. You could probably glue some foil in there shiny side out and it would work if the reflector was that bad.
I don't know if its just a Massachusetts thing, or the guy was being a dick this year, but I failed inspection this year because of condensation on the inside of my lenses. Hence why I tore it apart and fixed it. The process took a long afternoon and I was able to fix one of the adjusters that no longer worked in the process (part of why it was so much of a pain getting them out).

BTW, that same dick inspector complained about an exhaust leak that wasn't actually leaking (one connection I could never get tight, so the muffler and tailpipe could turn, but it wasn't actively leaking). While he was looking at the leaking connection he obviously was too much of an idiot to look up at the rusting out rocker panels where the seatbelt connects. The rust on my truck is the only thing affecting the safety and he completely missed that (half the driverside rocker panel and part of the floorboard are completely shot).

 

Headlights stopped working. Running lights and dash dimmer works fine. Just no headlights or brights. With the relays in this harness could that be it ? Or just go right to the headlight switch? Bulbs? Electric dummy here

 

Both high and lo beams out? I would check the relay setup, the voltage feed to the relay may be the problem.

Also check the dimmer switch in the floor, I had a problem with the switch corroding.

 

The brights haven't worked for a while actually... With my headlights on and I click the floor switch all headlights would turn off. Now regardless of switch being pressed or not I get no headlights. I went for like 2 years probably with no brights

 

Check out the dimmer switch then. If you have a multimeter, check to see if you are getting voltage to the switch. I want to saw you'll find 3 wires at the connector for the floor dimmer switch. The middle should have voltage when headlights are on, and it sends the voltage to one outside wire for high, the other for low. I was having the same problem with high's not working, but fixed it by cleaning up the switch (though I really should just replace it one of these days)

If you don't have voltage to there, check the fuses and the headlight switch on the dash.

 

I had an LMC harness like that on my '79. The relays lasted about two weeks, then nothing on the lows. Switched relays from the highs to lows, and got lows back. That relay went out in a few more days. Try to find some Bosch relays to replace the junk that came with the harness. I ripped mine back out, salvaged the wire and junked the rest. Should have just made my own from the beginning...