Headlight upgrade
ok here are the plugs that my year range have:
Motormite/Headlight Socket (84791) | 1990 Ford F350 1 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders M 7.3L Diesel | AutoZone.com
these are the type of plugs the new harness has (older pre 87):
Motormite/Headlight Socket (84790) | 1985 Ford F350 1 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders 1 6.9L Diesel | AutoZone.com
now my new harness has 3 of the above plugs, obvious that 2 go to the lights but then there is this one: ("to existing headlight harness")
<a href="http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/?action=view&current=5049e893.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/5049e893.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
<a href="http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/?action=view&current=cbdd3a51.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i463/91dirtydiesel/cbdd3a51.jpg" border="0" alt="Uploaded from the Photobucket iPhone App"></a>
I run off road lights for headlights, so I have to have them. The light switch will not take it.
If you adjust the lights right then it doesn't affect oncoming traffic and you can still see way better than stock headlights.
I run off road lights for headlights, so I have to have them. The light switch will not take it.
If you adjust the lights right then it doesn't affect oncoming traffic and you can still see way better than stock headlights.
Or did you put a relay on the running lights circuit as well? I've been thinking of doing that as I think thats what really overheats and melts on the headlight switch connector.
I'll also throw in my opinion on brighter lights, I HATE!! people that have superbright and/or misaimed headlights. It blinds the hell out of me (I have great night vision so really get hit hard by bright lights at night). Often times I just grab the wheel and hope the road stays straight since I can't see a damn thing beside bright light. Mind you, I'm in a truck sitting up pretty high. Headlights are supposed to be focused somewhere close to the ground. If its hitting me in the face, or coming off the rearview into my eyes, they are WAY too high and WAY too bright.

Personally, I think HID style super bright lights should be illegal. If you can't see well enough with the stock lights while driving down the road, A) slow the hell down, B) get your eyes checked, or C) stay home at night. Its more of a hazard by blinding other drivers than its worth for that one person.
If you're adding lights for offroad, farm use, or something else, the brighter the better, but don't use them on the road.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
but unless u have the wrong harness or I missed something u do like it says.
plug into ur existing harness.
The reason is when u do that it sends a signal to the relays to actuate and turn on the lights.
So unplug ur light, plug the new harness onto ur lights and then plug other left over male end into ur OEM harness. It doesnt matter which side of truck its on.
U can get these from LMC for about 30
it's like an hour job taking your time.
your still lost so lets try this:
grab a ladder to get up under the hood of your truck.

look for the wiring harness on the drivers side before it joins and goes to the other headlight.
cut all 3 wires right here! yikes!
just messing lol.now join the blue wires (now cut,so you have two ends) and join these back together but while doing so,join the 2 wires on that aftermarket harness.the two wires you join here,will be the 2 that are hooked onto each relays #86 ok?
what color? who cares lol.look and see.trace 'em both out and hook 'em.
now your grounds are done.relays,switch,headlights,etc.all grounded.(it's hooked to ground somewhere before enters the cab/switch.so no need to run a devoted ground.this is just as good.)
now hook up two fuse holders with 20 amp fusees in each.hook one end to the pos + battery (so you'll need a ring terminal or two.i fit both wires into one ring myself.) connect the other end of these two wires to your harness that run to each relay #30.ok?
now you have ground and your direct power hooked up.simple so far right?
now,you just need to use the trigger wires (from your headlight switch to the relays)
and the headlight bulbs to the load side,so when you turn your headlights on,the switch is commanded on from #30 to #87
so hook the green wire going to the lights to one of the relays pin number #87.
hook the yellow wire going to the lights to the other relay on pin number #87.
trace out which wire again these are by looking at your harness and just follow it out.
now,take the headlight switch side of the green wire you cut,and get this connected to the wire on your harness that goes up to the same relay the other green wire goes to,but put this one on pin #85.
now your left with just one wire in your aftermarket harness.this one will be up to relay #85 on the same relay you ran the other yellow wire to.but pin #85.so join the headlight switches yellow wire to this.
now you just hooked the headlight switch to act as a light load trigger wire to open the relay switch from your battery to your headlights.
forget your focus on what plugs into what,and just make it happen yourself with what you have see? simple.
now do yourself a huge favor,and buy new lenses.this was the largest issue i had,and they didn't even look all that bad.
then replace the stock bulbs with Sylvania Xtravision bulbs (if you go the next step up,it'll be brighter,but the life rating on them suck.)
now you'll have modern WHITE bright clear lights.
with the drastic difference,you won't even consider the silly extra bright HIDs.totally not required imho to already blind drivers on the road if not properly adjusted.
i went out the other night to adjust mine,and kept adjusting until it was nice and even and people stopped flashing me.then i turned them downward just a tad more.i can see better now on low beam than i could with high beams before the new lenses.

i had previously replaced the headlight harness and switch,so i didn't notice any difference at all with the relay mod,but it's good to know these will last this time cus of no real load put on 'em.
here's both of them installed now.
oh,yeah plus don't forget to cut and splice the other headlights.i guess it runs around the other way stock.your harness and my plow harness both achieve this.
that's pretty basic though.you just make sure the 3 wires are connected and run across the front along side the large battery cable.so make all of the headlight wires into 3 on the drivers side is all.hope you see what im saying.otherwise you'll have just the drivers side on the relay and a headlight switch draw on the pass side lol.that wouldn't be cool.
that's in the guide above anyway,but pretty much all this is.he did a good job covering it all anyway.but you seem so stuck figured i reword it some for ya.
or perhaps worded easier to understand:
cut off the stock harness on the pass side (and cap the wires off that run back to the switch) run them (the headlight bulb wires) to the drivers side headlight harness (which also cut now.)
join the two blues,joint the two yellows,join the two greens all with long tails to make just 3 wires and be sure they end up over on the drivers side by the relays.once you look at your harness,you'll see how its best done.trace it out.you'll want this done before hooking up the relays otherwise you'll find yourself using extra butt connectors etc.
no need to if u have the right harness.
also if u loose a relay while ur out u can just plug ur old factory lights back in and they will work again to get u home
i have a lot going on,this (scroll down to page 8)
http://library.fisherplows.com/fishe...399_070798.pdf
with the extra two relays prior to this.
fuel pump relay,e-fan for trans relay, and e-fan coolant relay.
plus of course the stock relays in the PDB.
no issues.but a couple fuses and spare relays in the glove box doesn't hurt.









