I6 suggestions?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
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im aware that im gonna probably go down in gas milage but my point is i will have new gears. and the whole reason i want to wake up my motor is due to the fact im adding larger tires. and i want it to be able to have more power. and also i may be keeping this truck 2x4 and just buying that donor truck and dropping a new motor in it
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2011
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even if i stay 2x4 im gonna want new gears in the rear end. so any suggestions on that? the reason i asked about a mild cam is i was told that camming the engine would free up some power and i wouldnt suffer on gas too badly any truth to this?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
Your truck is getting 1 mpg over the estimated EPA rating of the vehicle at time of manufacture.
Adding 4x4 to it by itself will drop your mileage to 18 MPG at least.
Then add the 5 to 7 mpg loss from the other mods you are thinking of you will have a truck that gets around 11 to 15MPG aproximate.
You may be lucky and get better MPG than that, but the odds are you will not and lose at least 10 MPG if not more.
As I already recommended, I would leave this truck alone, and build another that is already 4x4. It will be cheaper for you in the long run, and you will have a better truck and one with better mileage as well.
Adding 4x4 to it by itself will drop your mileage to 18 MPG at least.
Then add the 5 to 7 mpg loss from the other mods you are thinking of you will have a truck that gets around 11 to 15MPG aproximate.
You may be lucky and get better MPG than that, but the odds are you will not and lose at least 10 MPG if not more.
As I already recommended, I would leave this truck alone, and build another that is already 4x4. It will be cheaper for you in the long run, and you will have a better truck and one with better mileage as well.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Here's how it goes. Get the engine barely turning any rpms at speed, and you get good fuel mileage. Barely turning rpms means very little air going into the engine also. So that means a very small carb to keep the air velocity high so the carb mixes the air and fuel correctly. This also means making as much power and torque as possible in the lower rpms. This means a very mild cam that quickly opens and shuts the valves. It all works together. Any change you make, just start subtracting your fuel mileage. Like was said, 1 or 2 mpg here, 1 or 2 mpg there.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Globe/Miami, Arizona
My 86, is getting me about 25 MPG, and my only intended upgrades that I'm gonna make are: Retro-fit to the Duraspark II ignition, junk the feed back carb, and update to the EFI exhaust. Mine is a 4X4, and it still runs like a beast. If you want more pedal, get the Offenhauser dual plane manifold, and adapt the 4BBL down to 2BBL.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 49
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From: Globe/Miami, Arizona
If you're bumping up your tires, you'll wanna goto a lower Gear Ratio. My uncle has a completely stock '79 F100 with 31x10.5R15's that was ordered from the factory with 4.10's. We cruise down the highway doing 70 no problem, and we come back up the mountains in high gear without lugging. I can't remember where I found it, but there is a site with a calculator to tell you what gears you need to change to, with what tire size. A big plus will be that you won't need to change your speedo gears that way.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
My 86, is getting me about 25 MPG, and my only intended upgrades that I'm gonna make are: Retro-fit to the Duraspark II ignition, junk the feed back carb, and update to the EFI exhaust. Mine is a 4X4, and it still runs like a beast. If you want more pedal, get the Offenhauser dual plane manifold, and adapt the 4BBL down to 2BBL.
The Feedback Carb system will give you better mileage when working correctly than the non-feedback carbs will.
The magic words here are "when working correctly". If your system is working correctly, as the 25 MPG seems to suggest, I would leave it alone as well.
The reason the feedback carbs give you better mileage than non-feedback systems is because the fuel/air ratios is adjusted by the computer and is precisely adjusted using an O2 sensor in the exaust manifold. Something the Non-Feedback system cannot do.
Swapping a feedback carb for a non-feedback system when it's working correctly, will not gain you a thing, and infact most likely make your mileage worse.
Just my two cents worth,
Freshman User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 49
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From: Globe/Miami, Arizona
This post is just so that you know....
The Feedback Carb system will give you better mileage when working correctly than the non-feedback carbs will.
The magic words here are "when working correctly". If your system is working correctly, as the 25 MPG seems to suggest, I would leave it alone as well.
The reason the feedback carbs give you better mileage than non-feedback systems is because the fuel/air ratios is adjusted by the computer and is precisely adjusted using an O2 sensor in the exaust manifold. Something the Non-Feedback system cannot do.
Swapping a feedback carb for a non-feedback system when it's working correctly, will not gain you a thing, and infact most likely make your mileage worse.
Just my two cents worth,
The Feedback Carb system will give you better mileage when working correctly than the non-feedback carbs will.
The magic words here are "when working correctly". If your system is working correctly, as the 25 MPG seems to suggest, I would leave it alone as well.
The reason the feedback carbs give you better mileage than non-feedback systems is because the fuel/air ratios is adjusted by the computer and is precisely adjusted using an O2 sensor in the exaust manifold. Something the Non-Feedback system cannot do.
Swapping a feedback carb for a non-feedback system when it's working correctly, will not gain you a thing, and infact most likely make your mileage worse.
Just my two cents worth,
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Casa Grande
Have you tried dielectric grease on the plug and mounting surface of the TFI? I thought I had blown the TFI module I stuck on less than a year ago. When I unpluged it I noticed just a very small amount of corrosion on the bottom pin (PIP output). After cleaning the plug and contacts with contact cleaner I coated the plug, contacts and mounting surface with dielectric grease. It runs good as new and no more codes. And hopefully stopped the problem of moisture corroding the contacts.
Just an idea you might want to think about before you rip it all out.
Just an idea you might want to think about before you rip it all out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
The TFI system itself is a pretty good system. It's the location they placed the module on the distributor that was horrible and made them fail.
Why Ford moved the module to the firewall in a heat sink in later years. There was a retrofit kit avaliable as well for awhile. Might have luck finding one in the wreckers.
As kedwinh said above, if mounting the module in the original place on the distributor, dielectric grease is essential on the mounting surface and plugs for it to function correctly. Even then the heat will kill it eventually mounting it to the distributor, but without the grease it's a certainty.
Why Ford moved the module to the firewall in a heat sink in later years. There was a retrofit kit avaliable as well for awhile. Might have luck finding one in the wreckers.
As kedwinh said above, if mounting the module in the original place on the distributor, dielectric grease is essential on the mounting surface and plugs for it to function correctly. Even then the heat will kill it eventually mounting it to the distributor, but without the grease it's a certainty.
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