Then it sounds like "duck fan" is all over it. I agree with his suggestion that you have a loose UVCH and it's on the passenger side. Luckily that is the easy side. Have you ever been under the valve covers? If not, we can give you some tips to save you some frustration.

 

Ok what are the tips we just serviced the icr sensor

 

Cleaned icr truck starts but does not run smooth going to switch it out with one out of another truck an see what that does if it don't fix it il pull valve covers

 

Clean all you want. Your problem is under the valve covers.

2001 F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel, UVCH - YouTube

 

Going from memory...
To remove the passenger side valve cover I first remove the boost sensor located on top of the A/C condenser. I unplug the electrical connector and then unscrew the sensor and then lay the sensor on top of the engine (with the hose connected still). I didn't try removing the hose from the sensor because it was on there nice and tight and it felt like I might brake the fitting so it was just safer for me to unscrew the sensor. It's only two little Torx fasteners anyway so it's super quick.

Remove the intercooler tube and move the heater hoses aside. Take a bungee cord to hold the heater hoses out of the way while you work. Don't remove the heater hoses or you will have coolant everywhere, they can be moved without disconnecting anything. Pull up on the heater hose retainers...they are just press fit onto the valve cover studs so a firm tug should get them off.

Make note which valve cover bolts have studs and which are just normal washer head bolts so you can put them back in the correct spot. Loosen the nut on the stud that retains the dipstick bracket. Take care not to trash the bracket because it bends easy if the stud turns instead of of the nut. I like to spray some WD-40 on that nut a few minutes ahead of time so it comes off easy. You can hold the bracket with some needle nose pliers while you remove the nut to help ensure the bracket doesn't get all twisted.

The rest of the bolts are straight forward except for the two bottom bolts near the A/C condenser unit. I access those two bolts by reaching in through the front wheel well. I have a 4x4 so it's pretty for me to reach. If you have room then you might want to try that as well.

To remove the valve cover, lift up and float it towards the firewall and then drop the rear while lifting the front. It should come right out.

Good luck.

 

We replaced the icr with a different on and she runs great not under valve covers

 

where is a good place to get an icr? ford wants $180 for one just wondered if there was a cheaper place to get them? Thanks

 

Great news! Glad you got it fixed.

 

Ok Noob question, what is the icr sensor? I have not heard of that one yet...

 

It Is located on the drivers side of the fuel bowl and is towards the Bally of the engine it controls the pressure of the hpop from what I heard from my friend which it was his truck we were workin on ford says its non serviceable but you can actually take it apart and service it there are posts about it

 

I believe he is talking about the IPR (injection pressure regulator)

 

Did you take it completely apart and clean everything and make sure everything slides nice? Mine was stuck pretty good and took some doing to get all those little pieces out of it, but has been running good since.
Here is a link to one from Clay at RiffRaff


Riffraff Diesel: IPR Injection Pressure Regulator 96-03

 

I figured he meant the IPR, but you never know what some people call stuff. I learn new stuff all the time on here.

 

Yes it's the ipr I keep messing it up sorry guys but ya we took it apart cleaned it with John Deere break clean

 

yes i took the one apart that was in the truck cleaned it all up really good. and the truck ran but not very good. so im assuming that i need to buy a new ipr and that there is nothing i can do to make the old one work right.