91 ranger no start
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From: Smithton
91 ranger no start
Working on a 1991 ranger 3.0 v6 with a no start condition. It cranks over fine and I have fuel, fire, and compression, but I believe i am getting excessive fuel. If you floor it the truck will fire for a few seconds. Also if you let is sit for about 30 min. or so it will hit for a second. After cranking on it for a while you can smell raw fuel, and I have had to change the plugs, because they became fuel soaked. I had codes for the ect sensor and iat sensor so i changed both of those and now i am code free, but still no start. I have between 35-40 psi of fuel pressure and no fuel leaking from the pressure regulator. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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From: West central manitoba
hello were u working on it then after it wouldn,t start.. IF U WERE AND HAD THE AIR INTAKE HOSE OFF BETWEEN YOUR AIR FILTER AND THOTTLE BODY AND STARTED IT WITH OUT IT HOOK UP U COULD HAVE DAMAGE YOUR MASS AIR SENSOR. I have also in the past with my old ranger had the temp senser screw up and cause it to give a whole bunch of goofy codes and spent money on other sensers that I did not need. Also their is a pressure releif on your fuel rail that is vacum actuvated ,if that isn,t releasing it can cause over fueling or can be leaking in to the vacum line to check unhook that line and get some one to start while u are watching. I hope I could be a help best of luck getting it running and seasons greetings Roy
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From: Smithton
No fuel inside the regulator, but I'm sure that it's massively over fueling. The engine oil had fuel in it today, so I changed it, and within a few hours of messing with it it was over-full again and smelled like gas. Tries unplugging the maf and map sensors and still no start.
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From: SW Va
If the FPR vacuum hose is dry, then look for a runny nose fuel injector by hooking up your pressure gauge to the fuel rail schrader test port & watch for a quick pressure leak down. Then pull a couple of the easier to get at plugs from each bank, to get an idea which injector/s may be at fault.
If its injectors, leaking this bad, you should also have some fuel trim codes for the troubled cyl bank, or your scantool should be showing some wildly rich fuel trim numbers.
If its injectors, leaking this bad, you should also have some fuel trim codes for the troubled cyl bank, or your scantool should be showing some wildly rich fuel trim numbers.
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From: Smithton
Pressure stays up. I even pulled off the fuel rail (leaviing the injectors hanging from it) and cranked it over to look for one sticking or dripping excessively, but everything seems normal.
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From: SW Va
OK, so where do you suppose the fuel in the combustion chambers is coming from, seems to me it sorta leaves us looking at the FPR vacuum line sucking it into the intake manafold, so are you certain the FPR diaphragm isn't ruptured & leaking it into the vacuum line?????
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From: Smithton
I have taken the line off and the regulator has no fuel coming out of it. I then check the regulator with a vacume pump and the vacume doesn't bleed off.
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From: SW Va
OK, that seems like a valid test. SO, where do you suppose all of the gas is coming from in the combustion chambers?????
OK so lets think about this some more. You say that you have compression, spark, fuel pressure, the fuel pressure is holding, so with your doing a vacuum leak down test on the FPR, we don't believe its diaphragm is leaking fuel past it into the intake manafold. You've taken the fuel rail off with the injectors attached, pressurised it & none seem to have a runny nose & it passes a pressure leak down test. Yet you have fuel in the oil sump, wet plugs & an engine that half way tries to run at WOT.
I suppose we now need to move on to spark & fuel injector timing. A timing light will check spark timing.
Have you had any noise coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall passenger side where the cam sensor resides, or messed with, or replaced the cam sensor before or since the problem began????
OK so lets think about this some more. You say that you have compression, spark, fuel pressure, the fuel pressure is holding, so with your doing a vacuum leak down test on the FPR, we don't believe its diaphragm is leaking fuel past it into the intake manafold. You've taken the fuel rail off with the injectors attached, pressurised it & none seem to have a runny nose & it passes a pressure leak down test. Yet you have fuel in the oil sump, wet plugs & an engine that half way tries to run at WOT.
I suppose we now need to move on to spark & fuel injector timing. A timing light will check spark timing.
Have you had any noise coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall passenger side where the cam sensor resides, or messed with, or replaced the cam sensor before or since the problem began????
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From: Smithton
I have verified timing with a light while cranking, and it is at 10 btdc. I borrowed a couple of extra noid lights and noticed that all 6 of my injectors seem to fire at the same time. Shouldn't this be a batch fire engine?(one bank and then the other) Also I wasnt aware that this year had a camshaft sensor. I didn't notice one on the back of the engine, but I wasnt really looking for one.
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From: SW Va
Yup your right about the cam sensor, thats my bad, accustom to working on my 99 & forgot we're talking about a 91.
Your 91 probably uses the distrubutor hall effct pickup to trigger both spark & injector timing, like my 94 Taurus does & you probably have an ICM using the distributors hall effect pickup to trigger the coil to make spark. Anyway, you say that spark timing is ok.
My Ranger repair manual only goes back to 93, so I'm not certain about your 91, but I believe you probably have an Ignition Control Module (ICM) that triggers the coil to produce spark & the computer uses the distributor hall effect signal to also trigger the fuel injectors driver to ground the injectors to have them squirt. Not sure if you have sequential injection or not, as my manual only goes back to 93.
So right now the fuel injectors squirt sequence may be in question. Or the spark output voltage may be in question, you know, a weak spark from the coil. Maybe a bad coil, or the B+ feed to it may be low???
Your 91 probably uses the distrubutor hall effct pickup to trigger both spark & injector timing, like my 94 Taurus does & you probably have an ICM using the distributors hall effect pickup to trigger the coil to make spark. Anyway, you say that spark timing is ok.
My Ranger repair manual only goes back to 93, so I'm not certain about your 91, but I believe you probably have an Ignition Control Module (ICM) that triggers the coil to produce spark & the computer uses the distributor hall effect signal to also trigger the fuel injectors driver to ground the injectors to have them squirt. Not sure if you have sequential injection or not, as my manual only goes back to 93.
So right now the fuel injectors squirt sequence may be in question. Or the spark output voltage may be in question, you know, a weak spark from the coil. Maybe a bad coil, or the B+ feed to it may be low???
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From: Smithton
My spark will jump my tester even when i make the gap huge. Even so I tried a new coil with no luck. I also replaced the distributor because it had an old history code for intermittant pip. I tried to start it without the upper intake on, and it actually fires better when i unplug 2-3 injectors. This thing is about to drive me to drink! And the bad part is im only working on it because someone else couldnt figure it out; and i had to open my mouth and guarantee that i could get it running.
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From: West central manitoba
hello again I have been reading alll what u have been trying But do u know if this person that owns this ranger ever ran it with out the hose on between the air filter and thottle body because u can damage the mass air flow senser . by having it diconected while running it I found out the had way and cost me a couple hundred bucks to replace with a new one because it was a over fueling problem. But also it can do with your temp sensor Do u have any way of putting on a code reader. I have the clinton ranger manuel for 91 ..
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From: Smithton
It had codes for the iat sensor, and the ect sensor when i started. I replaced them both and the codes went away, but still no start. I also found a hole in the intake tube between the maf and the throttle body which i repaired. I have tried unplugging the maf sensor(hopeing the pcm will use a substitute value that would at least let it start), but still no start.
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From: SW Va
My spark will jump my tester even when i make the gap huge. Even so I tried a new coil with no luck. I also replaced the distributor because it had an old history code for intermittant pip. I tried to start it without the upper intake on, and it actually fires better when i unplug 2-3 injectors. This thing is about to drive me to drink! And the bad part is im only working on it because someone else couldnt figure it out; and i had to open my mouth and guarantee that i could get it running.
After you made the code repairs, did you pull the Battery B- cable to clear the codes, wipe the computers corrupt KAM, so that it knows the repairs have been made, so it can begin to build new fuel trim tables with inputs from the new sensors???? wiping the old corrupt KAM will have the computer revert to its programmed in factory values for fuel trim & spark.