I also new to the V10 community. I have an e99 -F450 that I am going to use as a daily driver and tow vehicle in the summer. I have always used motorcraft semi sin oil and a FL820s filter with no problems. The truck has 60,000 miles on it and has been sitting for 3 years. I am wondering if plain old motorcraft oil is good or is a full synthetic better for towing in the long run. Thanks.

 

When it comes to towing, heat is your biggest enemy. In the tranny, and rear end. Depending on what you're towing you probably should switch to synthetic. Synthetic handles the heat a lot better than dino oil, and both the tranny, and rear end can run 20-50 degrees cooler with synthetic. I've had Amsoil in my tranny and rear end for almost 100k, with no problems at all. I used to pull many different travel trailers, the last one being a 10,000 lb 35 footer. I've had the oil analyzed, with the results saying "no action needed, continue running". The trans has never slipped, and I've NEVER smelled it burning! An old car I had, 25 years ago, was burning tranny fluid towing my camper, even after I installed the biggest cooler you could find. After installing Amsoil, I never smelled it again, even while towing a camper over the mountains with that car!

I would, however run some engine flush through the engine, before you install synthetic oil, since it has set for 3 years. The way that has worked good for me, is to change the filter (not the oil), put in some engine flush, run the vehicle for at least 15 minutes, at around 2000 rpm's, then drain the oil, and change the filter.

John

 

I have always heard bad things about engine flushes.. Im thinking on using mobil 1 but as for the transmission Im not sure I think its mercon V I was just going to stick to valvoline or should I go with a full synthetic?

 

What can possibly be bad with engine flushes? If you run dino oil, I can guarantee you have gunk in the engine. I've personally seen how engine flush works, and will always recommend that to people. I had a buddy of mine who didn't change his dino oil for over 40K, but wanted to run Amsoil in it! I told him that we have to run engine flush in the car, before even thinking of putting Amsoil in the engine. We changed the filter, and poured in the flush, and ran the engine for 30 minutes. When I took the filter off, it was TWICE as heavy as ANY used filter I've ever handled! I still have that filter to this day, to show people why they SHOULD flush their engine. When the oil he drained into my drain pan had cooled, it turned into molasses, and would not come out the spout! I had to drain the oil out of my van, slosh it around inside the drain pan (one where you can't see the oil, it goes down a drain, and you pour it out of the spout), and then it finally came out, but it was like jelly! If you take the oil filter that was on the car for only 30 minutes, turn it upside down, in about a day the crap will ooze it's way down, but it's so thick, that it won't come out of the filter! The Amsoil engine flush is heat activated, so when it cools, the gunk solidifies, and hardens up. That is the stuff that is in YOUR ENGINE!

I have a '77 LTD, that I only drive in the summer. Every couple of years, I'll flush the engine, even though I've been running Amsoil in it for 20 years! With your vehicle having been inoperative for 3 years, I strongly recommend flushing the engine, before driving it! Even if you are still going to run disgusting dino oil in it!

I would recommend Amsoil for the trans, and rear end. After the trans oil being in my van for almost 100k, and getting a 'clean bill of health' by way of analysis, it's still ready to use!

John

 

The back of quart of Mobil-1 5W-20 says that the oil meets Ford WSS-M2C930-A.


Footnote 6 adjacent to the spec table in my user's manual says that oil has to "meet the requirements of Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A and the API Certification mark."


This suggests to me that Ford might legitimately object in an engine warranty situation if a non-certified oil is used.

 

Well, first of all, Amsoil has their OWN warranty, but you won't need it. According to the "Magnuson Moss Warranty Act", any aftermarket product can be used, as long as it meets the OEM spec. As I highlighted in bold, and underlined, this oil clearly meets the Ford spec. This is right off of Amsoil's website, feel free to look it up yourself.

With a cold weather pour point of -60, and a flash point of 442, I'd like to see ANY dino oil come close to those numbers! Even a quart of your beloved Mobil 1, which IS part dino oil, no matter how they try to cover it up! At least Amsoil has ALWAYS been 100% synthetic! They did make a few oils back in the day, which were "para-synthetic" (for people who were too chicken to go to 100% synthetic), but at least they came out and said it was, and didn't try to cover it up. I'm sure Mobil's lawyers have found a loophole to hide in, so they can say "fully synthetic", but back years ago, they had an asterisk by that saying, and when you turned the quart over, and found the asterisk (with a microscope), it said "contains petroleum carrier"! Mmm, I wonder what that means?


Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (ALM)

The Top Tier of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil

See Pricing Information or Place an Order
Package sizes include:

1-Quart Bottle
1-Quart Bottles (case of 12)
1-Gallon Bottle
1-Gallon Bottles (case of 4)
30-Gallon Drum
55-Gallon Drum
275-Gallon Tote



AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil delivers extraordinary lubrication in all types of automotive gasoline engines. By combining industry-premier synthetic technology with AMSOIL premium additives, Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil exceeds the higher performance demands of modern engines. It withstands the stress of higher horsepower, higher heat and complicated emissions control systems. Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is engineered to outperform competitive conventional and synthetic motor oils. It delivers long-lasting performance and protection.

AMSOIL, the leader in automotive synthetic lubrication, produced the world’s first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972. Trust the extensive experience of AMSOIL, the First in Synthetics®, to do the best job protecting your engine.

Extends Drain Intervals
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil can extend drain intervals far beyond those recommended for conventional oils. Its unique synthetic formulation and long-drain additive system are inherently stable to resist oxidation and neutralize acids over longer periods. Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to deliver the best possible engine protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain intervals. It reduces vehicle maintenance and waste oil disposal costs.

Maximizes Fuel Economy
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to maximize energy efficiency for improved fuel economy. Unlike conventional oils, its uniform molecular structure helps it flow more freely and reduce friction between metal surfaces. Anti-friction additives are included to further improve energy efficiency.

Reduces Engine Wear
Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil provides outstanding anti-wear protection. It has excellent viscosity film strength to separate metal surfaces and robust anti-wear additives to further reduce wear in metal-to-metal contact regions for improved engine life.

Reduces Oil Consumption and Emissions
Volatility (burn-off) occurs when oil gets hot, causing high oil consumption and emissions. AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil exhibits an extremely low volatility rate; it controls volatility-related oil consumption and emissions.

Excels in Extreme Temperatures
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil resists thermal (heat) breakdown better than conventional oils. It is heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives to help prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean. And unlike conventional oils, Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil contains no wax, staying fluid in the coldest winter temperatures for easier starting, improved oil flow and reduced bearing wear.

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is excellent for use in all types of gasoline-fueled vehicles. It is recommended for all domestic and foreign vehicles requiring any of the listed performance specifications:

5W-20 (ALM): API SN (Resource Conserving), SM…; ILSAC GF-5, GF-4…; ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1; GM 6094M; Ford WSS-M2C945-A, WSS-M2C930-A; Chrysler MS-6395

COMPATIBILITY
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is compatible with other conventional and synthetic motor oils. Mixing AMSOIL motor oils with other oils, however, will shorten the oil’s life expectancy and reduce the performance benefits. AMSOIL does not support extended drain intervals where oils have been mixed. Aftermarket oil additives are not recommended for use with AMSOIL synthetic motor oils.

SERVICE LIFE
AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified(1), mechanically sound(2) gasoline-fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service(3) – Up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service(4) – Up to 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• In all non-gasoline-fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

*OEM – Original Equipment Manufacturer

(1) Engines operating under modified conditions (non-stock) are excluded from extended drain recommendations. Examples include the use of performance computer chips; non-OEM approved exhaust, fuel or air induction systems; and the use of fuels other than those recommended for normal operation by the manufacturer.

(2) Mechanically sound engines are in good working condition and do not, for example, leak or consume excessive amounts of oil, are not worn out, do not overheat, do not leak antifreeze and have properly working emissions control systems. AMSOIL recommends repairing malfunctioning engines prior to the installation of AMSOIL synthetic oils.

(3) Personal vehicles frequently traveling greater than 10 miles (16 km) at a time and not operating under severe service.

(4) Turbo/supercharged engines, commercial or fleet vehicles, excessive idling, vehicles with more than 100,000 miles without prior continuous use of AMSOIL motor oil, daily short-trip driving less than 10 miles (16 km), frequent towing, plowing, hauling or dusty condition driving.

AMSOIL Ea® Full-Flow Oil Filters are designed for extended change intervals. They stop smaller particles, flow more oil and last longer than regular filters. For best performance, use AMSOIL Ea Full-Flow Oil Filters.

HEALTH & SAFETY
This product is not expected to cause health concerns when used for the intended application and according to the recommendations in the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). An MSDS is available via the Internet at AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases or upon request at (715) 392-7101. Keep Out of Reach of Children. Don’t pollute. Return used oil to collection centers.

For warranty information, visit AMSOIL Limited Warranty - Lubricants.



TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
Signature Series 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (ALM)
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
8.8
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
50.5
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
153
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (°C) (ASTM D-5293
4054 (-30)
Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
228 (442)
Fire Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92)
246 (475)
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97)
-51 (-60)
NOACK Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800)
5.70%
High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
@ 150°C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP (ASTM D-5481)
2.8
Four-Ball Wear Test @ 40 kgf, 75ºC,
1200 rpm, 1 hr, scar diameter, mm (ASTM D-4172)
0.35
Total Base Number (ASTM D-2896)
12.6

 

I still dont like the idea of the engine flush.. It seems like snake oil to me and I simply dont want all that crud being disturbed in the motor. I think Im going to stick with the motorcraft syn blend 5/20 and an FL820S filter.

 

Oh well, I tried! I can't keep beating my head against a wall! So, I'm guessing you want "all that crud" to stay put, where it will keep building, and building, and building......especially if you are going to use half dino oil, it will just keep building, and building, and building....... you get the point!

The funniest thing I used to hear from people, is when they would say: "I change my (dino) oil every 3k, and it looks just as clean as it did when I put it in". Think about that statement for a minute. I'll wait........... An oil's job, is to keep the engine lubricated, and CLEAN. So, if your oil looks as good as when you installed it, then where's all the dirt? Don't say the filter, because a 'regular' AC, or Motrorcraft filter normally only filters down to 20-30 microns. The old Fram filter only filtered down to 50 microns. I used to tell people that Fram oil filters only took out 'nuts and bolts'! So, then where's the dirt? Exactly, IN YOUR ENGINE!!!!

If you installed a high quality synthetic, the oil itself will clean the engine. And, the oil will turn dark. That doesn't mean the oil is bad, necessarily. Amsoil will turn dark, but will still be extremely slippery when ran between your fingers, and you won't feel any 'grit'. What will happen then, is "all the crud" will still work it's way loose, then end up in your filter, plugging it up. What happens then? You start to have oil consumption, because the filter is in 'bypass' mode. You will change the filter, and depending on how much 'crud' you had in the engine, the consumption will either stop, or continue until you change the filter again. I've had one guy tell me it took 4 filter changes before his Nissan pick up stopped consuming oil! Why? Because his filter was no longer plugged up, and it started to work correctly. But, this guy used to go 10k on whatever was on sale dino oil between changes. So, you can imagine how much 'crud' was in his engine! This is the reason why I recommend the engine flush. It just takes care of it from the start, so there should be no oil consumption, since you will be starting with a 'clean' engine!

My old '77 LTD has 185k on it, and I STILL flush it every couple of years! And, I run Amsoil in it to boot! Why? Because it sits every winter. I've owned that car for over 25 years now, and it's NEVER seen salt! I say I'm going to start it up every month, but do I? No. Life happens, and I forget!

So, if you won't use the 'snake oil', then at least change the oil, and filter, and buy a few more filters, as you will probably need them, as they plug up!

John

 

Im not trying to insult or anger anyone Im just new to the whole engine flush idea. I have heard so many mixed reviews about it. I just dump the amsoil flush in with the 3 year old oil and install a new filter and let run for a little while? or can I drive with it in there for a few mins?

 

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible - "Do I need a flushing oil?

 

No, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR, but try to run it at 2000 rpm's for 15 minutes. I know it gets kind of tedius doing that, but the stuff is designed to clean the engine at a fast rpm WITH NO LOAD on the engine. DO NOT do what the guy below your post says to do. I'll deal with him later. You would be wasting your money doing it the way he says.

John

 

LOL... That is hilarious. UNLESS you are a Chemical Engineer? Personal experience is WAY different then fact. FULL synthetic oil is a great product no matter the brand (viscosity vs viscosity). Marketing is king and Amsoil is very good at it.

Here is a favorites poll on oil (based on user opinions):****BITOG's FAVORITE OIL 2010 RESULTS**** - Bob Is The Oil Guy

98ClubWagon: It is important to make sure that you state your claims as your experience or opinion vs fact. You can mislead other with such firm statements.

 

I would seriously like to know what kind of experience either you, or whatever this website is has? I've been doing this for over 20 years, so I think I know a couple of things about flushing engines.

1): Why on earth, would you leave in a dirty, and probably filled up oil filter to flush the engine? That is just retarded! This description is totally backwards from how it SHOULD be done! I have the oil filter to PROVE that you need a NEW oil filter in the car, to sucessfully flush the engine! The BRAND NEW filter that was in my buddy's car for 30 minutes, is over TWICE as heavy as ANY used oil filter I've ever felt! And, like I also said, the oil that came out of his car, was molasses after it cooled! Actually, even after I got it out of my drain pan, I poured it into a 5 gal pail, to give to a guy who uses used oil in a furnace. When I got the empty pail back, it was STILL heavier than any other 5 gal pail, because the GUNK WAS STILL IN THE BOTTOM OF THE PAIL! I should have told the guy to take some hot oil, pour it in there, to loosen up the gunk, so it would come out!

2): You do NOT need to change your oil, to sucessfully fllush an engine, as long as you put on A NEW OIL FILTER TO TRAP THE DIRT! I do not know about any other engine flush, but the Amsoil one is HEAT ACTIVATED, and it actually liquifies the gunk, as long as the oil is HOT! That is why, you have to IMMEDIATELY drain the oil, when you are done running the car, before the oil has a chance to cool!

Now, I can almost understand an engine with a lot of miles on it (I don't know how many miles this 280km is) not being flushed, but I've sucessfully flushed over a couple hundred engines in my lifetime, with NO failures like you mention! As long as an engine is mechanically sound, you won't have any problem flushing it. I keep mentioning my 35 year old car, that has NEVER had any lower end engine work done to it, and I flush the engine every couple of years. There is NO blow by, and the car uses NO oil! Even my buddy's car, that he totally abused, ran great on Amsoil after we flushed it, and got more mpg's (duh, you think?)!

I'm sorry if I sound kind of harsh, but I've done numerous car shows over the last 20 years, and the 'out of this world' stuff I've heard from people who are 'brainwashed', still amazes me to this day! I used to be a 3k oil change Valvoline guy until I got into Amsoil. And, I've even had a car that was in serious need of a valve job, but kept running great on Amsoil! The guy who did the valve job, called me to ask how this car can still be running! I asked why, and he said that he did a compression test, and all but ONE cylinder was at "0", and the one cylinder was at 10 psi. I told him the car runs great, unless I hook up my camper, then I can't get it over 45 mph! He showed me the bent valves, that were loaded with carbon, and still coudn't understand why the car even ran! The car was used strictly in-town, and this was back in the day when you had to take them out on the highway, and 'blow' the carbon out!

John

 

TrdLtly, I do apologize for 'blowing up' like I did. I did look at the website you mentioned, and I see that you just copied/pasted it.

I have, however, emailed the author of that website, informing him/her of the mistakes they have posted in that site, and have even directed them to the Amsoil website's description of the engine flush, and the recommended flushing procedure. If you read that, you will see that the only difference I add, is that you should use a new oil filter pryor to flushing, to capture more of the dirt.

John

 

John (aka 98ClubWagon) I am in no means attacking you personally, but the same "Amsoil" marketing is pushed all over the forums. While you have had great experience with it others may not. I know they guarantee it but the facts are still set aside. That is all great PERSONAL experience, but make sure you state it as such.

The ONLY time anyone will ever see a "look how great Amsoil is" study is if they are selling Amsoil. I have never seen a truly independent study where there was not an Amsoil banner at the top to go buy it. That is the marketing of Amsoil. If you know of one the let me know.

IF YOU REALLY WANT TO PROVE YOUR POINT: Show us the EOA (engine oil analysis) showing your Amsoil run in YOUR engine vs a couple of other synthetics.

Oh, and your "Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act" quote is only partially correct. The manufacturer, Ford in this case, has the right to counter the claim by showing that the product did in fact cause the damage and it was not product defect. "This does not preclude a warrantor from expressly excluding liability for defects or damage caused by such "unauthorized" articles or service; nor does it preclude the warrantor from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused." as quoted from Keeping Your Mod's Warranty Intact - For DummiesMore FACTS here: Magnuson

KDR358: Your a smart guy or you wouldn't be driving a Ford Do your own research and don't take one or two Opinions as fact. There are TONS of opinions on engine oil over here: Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs - Bob Is The Oil Guy

My personal opinion: I usually use what ever name brand "full synthetic" is on sale. If I can't find anything on sale then I go with Mobil 1.