All the ones I have seen were rated at 80 and 65, take another look at the small print on the tires. That rating is where the maximum strength is for that tire so they should be all the same.

 

D's are fine provided the match the E rating. I'm only a 100% stickler for E's if you would be towing heavy all the time
you're crazy

X weighs too much for that tire rating.

 

Sounds like the Toyo's are not adhering to the DOT standard for ratings...


I know in order for our personal towing trucks to pass our EVOC inspection and be covered under City insurance to tow our trailers, we must have E rated tires or higher - no exceptions.

That doesn't mean you legally have to have that tire on our size trucks, just that for a proper safety margin with the curb weight of a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, that tire is needed. Otherwise under max inflation the tire won't have enough of a safety margin.

 

X 10...I'd never get behind the wheel of a truck this heavy while riding on C's. Tempting fate IMO.

Remember, driving a straight line and stop and go doesn't tax the tire that much. Have someone wreck on the freeway in front of you and you swerve to avoid the accident...between the roll of the truck (adding to the pressure applied to the tire), the braking (further adding to the pressure applied to the tire) and then the lateral forces (the wheel turning and the truck trying to go straight, in effect pushing the tire to the side or 'folding' it)...add all those factors and there is a very high chance that tire won't survive - starting a domino effect to YOU not surviving.

Maybe it won't blow, but it doesn't need to...if the sidewall isn't able to keep on the bead, if the tire 'folds' too much from the lateral force - no way you'll recover from that at highway speeds.

IMO...there are only so many Excursions left on the road - lets not lose any!!

 

There arent many/any that are E and 80 psi in the aftermarket/larger sizes. I have only seen 65 psi tires in E range in 35" and larger. And the BFG's that I ordered are D's but 50 psi max load. Even though they are D's, they are rated with a heavier load rating ### Than my E rated toyos. Nitto is the same as toyo specs.

 

Back in 2004, Firestone recalled the Steeltex A/T tires that were optional on the X. And those tires on the X just happened to be load range D. But Firestone also recalled the Steeltex A/T load range E tires on pickups at the same time. So someone would have to have an agenda to say the tires were recalled because they were load range D. It's an urban legend......you are good to go with the tires you ordered

 

Thanks. I was going crazy trying to get a correct answer. And from what I have learned, yes E's are a 10ply tire and 65 psi. But the biggest thing is the weight rating in pounds, not tire press or letter rating. But on the other hand, I posted what my current 10 ply tire is construced of and it only shows 8 plies.. I just dont know.

 

Read my post # 14, real 10 ply tires went out with hula hoops. A ply is not just a ply, they can have more strands, stronger material, larger diameter, etc, otherwise you could say a tire made with 10 plies of knitting yarn is a 10 ply tire. It's a much better grading system now

 

You make a good point here! Would you have these same concerns about going up to 285's on our stock 16 x 7 rims? I'll need new tires soon, but want to keep my stock rims and can't really make up my mind on the safety of the 285's with our rims. I know many on here have them with no problems, but... is it completely safe?

 

Any time you go with a different geometry on a tire, you change the dynamics. Typically manufacturers find that 'happy medium' on their OEM rims and tire sizes. Big 20" rims may have a shorter sidewall (would lead you to believe less sidewall is better), but in reality it doesn't give the tire very much room to "flex" left to right under hard braking+steering events.

Go bigger (like those monster tires) and the reverse is true, you can develop even more room to flex - maybe too much under the circumstances of an accident.

I think so long as you keep it reasonable (and I can't say what that is in a "hard and fast" rule) and drive accordingly, you'd be OK. If you want a bigger tire, consider going up from say a 16" rim to a 17" rim to help counteract the 'flex' you would develop - IF you do nothing but freeway driving. For more off road, maybe it makes sense to stay with a 16".

I say these things from the standpoint of emergency driving - pursuit, code response - not day to day driving.

The average driver (in all honesty) is usually the 'failure point' for accidents more than the tires - they over-correct or steer too quickly into or out of a maneuver and their actions cause the vehicle to go out of control.

For any person out there, my suggestion would be to save up a little coin and take a high-speed defensive driving course. Be sure to check your ego at the door - you won't learn anything if you go in with an attitude - the guys that teach these classes have hundreds of hours of actual pursuit or emergency driving miles. Actual "on the wheel" training...high speed accident avoidance, panic breaking, and hopefully even skid pan. From the day I took my first course, I couldn't believe how bad of a driver I was...and after that day I couldn't believe how much better I had become from just one class.

Call around to your local EVOC (Emergency Vehicle Operations Course) and see if they offer civilian versions of the class (everything the PD does exept the PIT maneuver and one or two other things). Our particular area offers classes to combat the loss in funding...maybe other places are offering the same. Mine ran about $275, but it was the absolute best $275 I've ever spent.

 

Maybe a better way to think of it is sidewall thickness/flex. Forget plys etc. The E will have less sidewall flex, the D will have more.

If you are going up in tire size, but keeping hte same wheels, your sidewall radius will increase as well. The sidewall will be taller.

In tires will equal sidewall construction, the taller the sidewall, the more it will flex. The shorter the sidewall, the less it will flex. It is possible to have higher weight capacity rating on a tire of equal contruction simply by reducing the sidewall height.

In your case, going to a taller sidewall means you would theoretically want a thicker sidewall to reain the same ride qaulity. The same thickness sidewall would ride a little smoother, but you would be giving up some turn in and high speed manuevering. A softer sidewall amplifies those problems.

The d tires are probably going to feel mushy. that is only my oppinion.

 

Good description. I could tell the difference between 16" rims and 17" rims on my Expedition (with tires of the same outer size). The 16" rims felt "bouncy" - the 17" ones felt more firm.

 

Well, luckily, I have NEVER hit a curb or damaged a sidewall of a tire. I dont take my X offroading. But even if the sidewall isnt construced as tough as a E Rated tire, would it still be able to support the weight? Hopefully I will have them by Wed or Thurs of next week. Thanks for everyones help and thoughts.

 

The question is not really support - sure it will keep it off the ground.

The question is how will it ride/drive. You may notice some loss of crispness in turn-in (of course that is relative, never seen an Ex with crisp tunr-in...) and a lsightly mushier ride. Oh, and more dive on braking and slightly longer braking distance.

It all depends on what suits you best. as they say, YMMV.

 

Well when I put these 325/50/22 on my trucka couple years ago, the ride was more harshbecause of the tire. I actually want the ride a little softer than current. I also dont beat on my X and dont theink its a Nascar truck. And add all that up with a new lift kit and springs, whew, it will be a blessing to have a softer ride. But at least I know that the new tires will have more load capability even though they areD's. Oh, I rarely ever tow either.