For God knows how long, my rear hatch had not been locking. Since I now have some tools in the back for roadside emergencies, it would be a shame for them all to be stolen because the lock wasn't doing it's job.

You will need a 4mm hex to get the panel off. The two screws in the handle are what holds the panel on.



Once you get the handle and panel off, you should now be able to see the actuators and lock assembly.

You also need some penetrating oil as chances are your latch/lock assembly is as dry and mine was.


You want to spray the brass assembly seen in the pic below, with a few shots of penetrating oil. Once you do that, use your key to turn the key to work the oil into the latch/lock.


Penetrating oil is only a temporary solution, so you'll need to use a longer term solution to keep things better lubricated. Either one will work:

Gunk/10.25 oz. (290.583 g.) white lithium grease (L6-16) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com

Gunk/11 oz. (325.309 ml.) silicone spray (M9-14) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com

In the end, it turns out my actuator wasn't bad as I initially thought, the latch/lock assembly just needed to be lubed up.

Take a few minutes and check your hatch lock; chances are if it happened on my truck, it's happening on others. Don't make it easy for theives to get into your truck.

 

Thanks for the head up. I checked mine the other day and it still lock.

 

Usually graphite is best for these types of things, isn't sticky and doesn't attract dust that way. Just have to be careful with the spray graphite, it can make a real mess.

 

I forgot to tell you TD, someone was kind enough to check on my stuff for me the other night. Came out in the morning and the truck smelt like smoke. There was a nice burn in the headliner as well. So get those locks fixed gentlemen.

 

Mine works sometimes and doesn't. That's probably what's going on with mine. Thanks TD

 

While you are back there - before you put that panel back on, that would be a great time to do the tinfoil fix on the actuator. My lock was gummed up a bit, but the lube didn't help - that was the hint to fix the actuator resistor.

When you guys go in, print out the tinfoil fix instructions before you start and save yourself the time and work in case the "slow" actuator is the resistor and not a gummed up lock assembly.

 

Thanks for the heads up. The last time my hatch wouldn't lock I had a dying battery. I replaced the battery and it works great. I guess I'll get in there and lube things up and check on everything else while I'm in there. Hate to have my tools be "liberated" by one of our local upstanding citizens.
I will have to research the tinfoil fix too.

 

Great idea Robert, I have already replaced tha actuator. I did it when I did all the doors. I know the clinder is the Problem in my case.

 

Great heads up. I found mine not locking about two years ago. Locked it with the key for a while and finally took it apart. Turned out my locking actuator was just really loose because it was still moving, just not enough. Put some cable ties around it to hold it in the position it needed to be in, and now it locks all the way. I do still check it from time to time to make sure it still locks.

 

Mine hasn't locked since I got it. Took it apart and played with the actuator (controller)for an hour, but it's just plain worn out. I guess the good news is the key mechanism works just fine. On my winter to-do list. Alas, it's a pricey part.

 

Sounds like your actuator is a prime candidate for the tinfoil fix...or did you already do that?

 

It's not the electrical part, it's the mechanical part. It would be the metal conglomeration in pic 3 above that the socket extension is pointing at. Various levers and slots, and it's just worn out.

 

Ah, damn...the tinfoil fix is so easy. Any "pick and pull" yards near you? Maybe you could cannibalize another Excursion...or check the classifieds for anyone parting one out. I seem to recall one or two that were being parted out.

 

Good reminder TD, here's another one:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wont-lock.html

 

I thought about used, but figure I'll just cough up the bucks for a new one. ($120 or so) There was a thread about it last month or 2, he had the same issue as mine. I could get it to work upside down, but not right side up. There's some slop in the slots and levers and it just binds up. Played with it for the longest time thinking I can surely make this work. No such luck.

TD is lucky he got his working and it wasn't worn out (yet). Might want to verify it locks every now and then.