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Check your hatch locks!!!!

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  #31  
Old 08-04-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
You will need a 4mm hex to get the panel off. The two screws in the handle are what holds the panel on.
I must be blind. Are we talking about the inside handle or the outside handle? The inside handle doesn't reveal what I'm looking for and I'm not seeing any screws under the outside handle. There's two rubber stops for the outside handle... do those need to come out to reveal the screws? Checking here first because it doesn't look like those stops are going to go back in once they come out!
 

Last edited by Diesel Newb; 08-04-2012 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Clarification
  #32  
Old 08-04-2012, 01:35 PM
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Yes, inside handle. Take off the small plastic/rubber tabs integrated into the handle to reveal the screws underneath, then the interior plastic cover pulls off with careful tugging to release the fasteners to the hatch frame. Let me know if you need pics.
 
  #33  
Old 08-04-2012, 09:28 PM
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Thanks... got it! I was nervous to keep pulling that trim piece off. After all, nothing is brittle after almost 13 years! Also, my handle was held on by a star bolt, I used a T-25 but I think it needed a 30; I kept thinking I was taking the wrong piece off. It's working with the keyless, but the key cylinder may be completely shot and when I popped the panel off I found the picture below. Do I find a new clip or JB Weld that sucker?

 
  #34  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel Newb
<font color="black"><font face="Verdana">Thanks... got it! I was nervous to keep pulling that trim piece off. After all, nothing is brittle after almost 13 years! Also, my handle was held on by a star bolt, I used a T-25 but I think it needed a 30; I kept thinking I was taking the wrong piece off. It's working with the keyless, but the key cylinder may be completely shot and when I popped the panel off I found the picture below. Do I find a new clip or JB Weld that sucker?</font></font><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh522/DieselNewb/BrokenHatchLockRodClip.jpg" border="0" alt="" />
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I'd find a new pawl. I think they are something outrageous in the parts catalog, but the parts guy at a local dealer had some in a kit behind the counter and sold one to me for a buck. I still wish I could find another spring clip to hold that lock cylinder in. I thought I got lucky and found one when I picked up my hitch receiver at a local yard, but the design was different and it didn't fit at all. I've got it held in place right now with a piece of wire.
 
  #35  
Old 08-05-2012, 02:29 AM
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Haha guess what i was doing today. Replacing my rear door actuator because i found out 2 weeks ago my back door was not locking. I bought the wrong one at first, but then got the right one in today. And it still doesnt work! So looks like my lock mechanism is nastified. Thanks TD for the directions. Ill dig in tomorrow. Looks like im not the only one!
 
  #36  
Old 08-05-2012, 07:26 PM
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+1 on not knowing wether it was working or not. For those familiar, the small pin that allows the mechanism to lock or unlock can become loose from wear, and prevent the mechanism for operating properly. I found it out the hard way when my rear hatch became locked and wouldnt unlock. I crawled in and folded the 3rd row seat down, pulled the cover off and unlocked the mechanism, and began the repair. after removing the mechanism, I cleaned with solvent and found the pin was fairly loose. I placed it on my vise jaw and used a ball peen hammer to remove some of the slop, applied some light grease, and reassembled it. Works like new! the key tumbler was frozen as well. I inserted the key, sprayed some penetrating oil in the shaft area, and used pliers from the back to work it back and forth until it became free. Also works great now! Just sharing wwhat I find with everyone! ( I lik...LOVES me some beer!)
 
  #37  
Old 08-05-2012, 09:35 PM
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Mine was not locking, with key or actuator (actuator does operate but very loose mounting) after spraying latch mechanism and lock cylinder with wd40 the key would lock with lots of key and handle jiggling. The bottom end of this adjustable rod with green plastic nuts bottoms out under the handle connection. Not sure if this is my problem, anyone notice the same on your lock.

 
  #38  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:40 PM
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I did this and its a easy fix. I lubed everything in there lol
 
  #39  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:34 PM
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i just bought an ex and the hatch wont lock with the key or the power locks anybody know what to do
 
  #40  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TTBforme
i just bought an ex and the hatch wont lock with the key or the power locks anybody know what to do
I have been meaning to do this. I sprayed everything down after I took the back inside panel off. But still won't work. So I attempted to remove the whole lock system, but haven't really found a way to do it yet. Once that is removed, spray with silicone all over until parts move correctly. If that doesn't work then buy new lock assembly.
 
  #41  
Old 10-13-2012, 04:47 PM
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Have been checking mine once in a while since we purchased the Ex and all was good until today. I have to hit the lock switch a couple of times and it will lock. If it's not raining out tomorrow I'll will check it out.
 
  #42  
Old 10-14-2012, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Yes, inside handle. Take off the small plastic/rubber tabs integrated into the handle to reveal the screws underneath, then the interior plastic cover pulls off with careful tugging to release the fasteners to the hatch frame. Let me know if you need pics.
Is there anything in the Ex that you haven't touch/fixed
 
  #43  
Old 10-14-2012, 10:38 AM
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Lol, I've never R&R'd the V10... Just too dang reliable .
 
  #44  
Old 10-14-2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Lol, I've never R&R'd the V10... Just too dang reliable .
Now your are making fun of my diesel (first diesel for me)
 
  #45  
Old 10-15-2012, 08:56 AM
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thanks for this thread OP.

My hatch hasn't been locking either and I figured it was just broken.
 


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