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Check your hatch locks!!!!

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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #16  
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dockrocker
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My hatch locks, but only with the remote/door switch. The key cylinder is frozen solid. Oddly enough, all of the other actuators are shot, but the front door keys work just fine. I have 5 new actuators sitting on the counter just waiting for me to get to them...
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ExxWhy
I thought about used, but figure I'll just cough up the bucks for a new one. ($120 or so) There was a thread about it last month or 2, he had the same issue as mine. I could get it to work upside down, but not right side up. There's some slop in the slots and levers and it just binds up. Played with it for the longest time thinking I can surely make this work. No such luck.

TD is lucky he got his working and it wasn't worn out (yet). Might want to verify it locks every now and then.
Autozone has lock actuators ($65 or so for driver's side and rear hatch, $50 or so for passenger sides). It comes with a lifetime warranty so if it wears out or fails, you can return it and get a new one no charge.

I decided to go this route instead of pulling it apart. Don't have the time and patience to deal with it. In my younger days, I would have.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #18  
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dockrocker
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I'm with you, jh. Bought 5 new ones online for $130 or so; too much work to pull the old ones apart. If I didn't have two kids in hockey...
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #19  
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ExxWhy
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Just to be clear, this is the part that I am having trouble with. #2 in the pic, called the controller.

2000 10 Excursion Parts - www.partsguyed.com

Here's the thread from last month, seems like a different (but similar) issue that TD had. I forgot the part about the part # and price change.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-actuator.html
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 10:07 AM
  #20  
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Nice write up. Thanks,

I'm taking a slightly different approach on this issue. I'm not going to replace the hatch struts so if someone else opens the hatch it will slam down on their head and they will get what they deserve.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #21  
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VQT
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Just check it again last night to see if the hatch lock work or not, sure enough it's not. finally get it working again. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 11:56 PM
  #22  
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Thanks for the heads up!
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 01:15 AM
  #23  
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I know this thread is a little old, but just wanted to say thank you for the heads up. I just picked up my 03 diesel X 2 days ago and discovered this issue on my truck. Your fix worked.
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 07:46 AM
  #24  
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Mine has been doing this for a while. I figured it was the actuator. I have been having to manually lock mine. Also the horn chirp beeps once whether it is locked or not. There does not seem to be a locked sensor on the hatch window. Once locked it does not unlock and vice versa. It stays where ever you left it last.

Perry

Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel
For God knows how long, my rear hatch had not been locking. Since I now have some tools in the back for roadside emergencies, it would be a shame for them all to be stolen because the lock wasn't doing it's job.

You will need a 4mm hex to get the panel off. The two screws in the handle are what holds the panel on.



Once you get the handle and panel off, you should now be able to see the actuators and lock assembly.

You also need some penetrating oil as chances are your latch/lock assembly is as dry and mine was.


You want to spray the brass assembly seen in the pic below, with a few shots of penetrating oil. Once you do that, use your key to turn the key to work the oil into the latch/lock.


Penetrating oil is only a temporary solution, so you'll need to use a longer term solution to keep things better lubricated. Either one will work:

Gunk/10.25 oz. (290.583 g.) white lithium grease (L6-16) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com

Gunk/11 oz. (325.309 ml.) silicone spray (M9-14) | Lubricant/Grease | AutoZone.com

In the end, it turns out my actuator wasn't bad as I initially thought, the latch/lock assembly just needed to be lubed up.

Take a few minutes and check your hatch lock; chances are if it happened on my truck, it's happening on others. Don't make it easy for theives to get into your truck.
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #25  
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I had the same thing. Took the actuator out and it had a ton of play on the little pin so I replaced it. Put the new one in , but it's still not always locking. I'm guessing it needs the same lube. It's hard to turn the key.
 
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Old May 19, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #26  
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bigzirb
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I shot some WD40 in the key slot and it locks fine with the key. Still need to tear into it and see why to actuator won't lock it.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #27  
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I shot some silicone grease on the location indicated. That helped a lot. It now locks and unlocks as it should. The key itself still turns a little difficult but that is independent from the lock.
Great info !

This does bring me to something else.
Ever since I changed the backdoor shocks I sometimes get a door ajar warning while all doors are closed. When I open and close the rear doors (window+left/right door) it then goes away. Anything I need to adjust here ?

edit: not hinges, but backdoor window shocks.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #28  
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Excellent stuff!

I know mine locks! Every time I go to get my trailer gear out of the back it is locked and I have to walk back to unlock it. One of these days I'll read up and shut off the auto locks.
 
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Old May 20, 2012 | 07:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by dockrocker
My hatch locks, but only with the remote/door switch. The key cylinder is frozen solid....
Ditto on the frozen key hole. Never worked for me (2008 and beyond).
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 03:42 AM
  #30  
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hamiltonfighter
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+1 for not locking. I saw this thread and tried opening the right away to find out that it doesn't lock.
 
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