electrical question 83 F350
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electrical question 83 F350
My 83, 351m runs great now, except for two things. One, when it is cold, nothing till start it until I pop the top off the air cleaner and hold the butterfly shut while someone cranks it without hitting the gas.
The second thing: my charge light (idiot lamps) comes on when the rpm's are low, and the battery drains. Not being an electrical guru, I put in a new alternator. Battery is new as well. Once I get up to about 35 - 40 miles an hour, the charge lamp goes out.
Where do I look first for either problem? For the electrical, I haven't replaced the cables, cause they don't appear to be corroded. I would rather troubleshoot the problem than just keep replacing parts.
The second thing: my charge light (idiot lamps) comes on when the rpm's are low, and the battery drains. Not being an electrical guru, I put in a new alternator. Battery is new as well. Once I get up to about 35 - 40 miles an hour, the charge lamp goes out.
Where do I look first for either problem? For the electrical, I haven't replaced the cables, cause they don't appear to be corroded. I would rather troubleshoot the problem than just keep replacing parts.
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North Dakota (thanks for filling out your profile 
), that gets cold.
When you first go to start it, do you first fully depress & release the gas pedal at least once?
That normally sets the choke and is necessary to do on carbureted engines.
Your charging problem, I'm suspicious of the voltage regulator (a small box mounted on the fender near the starter solenoid) and I think parts stores can check those.
), that gets cold.When you first go to start it, do you first fully depress & release the gas pedal at least once?
That normally sets the choke and is necessary to do on carbureted engines.
Your charging problem, I'm suspicious of the voltage regulator (a small box mounted on the fender near the starter solenoid) and I think parts stores can check those.
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that voltage regulator is easy enough to take out, I will have the guys at the auto store test it.
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I think Chris (ctubutis) is on top of the problems. But, you said 351M and '83. I'm pretty sure those are mutual exclusive unless the engine has been replaced. The last M's were used in '81 in the F series, and from '82 on they had W's. Seems pretty minor, just turn the letter upside down, but if you are buying parts it will make a world of difference.
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Ok, if the choke doesn't close when you press the gas once and the engine is cold then the choke is mis-adjusted. Just so happens I did this 3 days ago on my 2150: Loosen, but don't remove, the 3 screws holding the black round choke heating element on the passenger's side of the carb. With the throttle held open, turn the black piece counterclockwise just enough to get the choke to fully close, then snug the screws back down.
That should make it start, but it may now be too much choke unless the pull-off is functioning. If so, with the engine cold and the choke set reach behind the carb on the passenger's side to the vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke off slightly when the engine starts. Depress the plunger on it with your thumb and look to see if the choke opens about 1/8". If so, you should be good. If it opens too little or too much turn the screw on the back of the diaphragm to fix that.
That should make it start, but it may now be too much choke unless the pull-off is functioning. If so, with the engine cold and the choke set reach behind the carb on the passenger's side to the vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke off slightly when the engine starts. Depress the plunger on it with your thumb and look to see if the choke opens about 1/8". If so, you should be good. If it opens too little or too much turn the screw on the back of the diaphragm to fix that.
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Ford began to gradually phase the M-block out of trucks from MY 1980 through MY 1982. Beginning in MY 1980, the 400 was dropped from the engine lineup for Broncos and F150 pickups. The 351M and 400 were dropped from all but the F250HD and F350 models by the end of MY 1981, and they were dropped completely at the end of MY 1982.
By MY 1983, the 351W replaced the 351M, and the 6.9L Navistar diesel engine (and the 460 in HD 4x4 trucks) replaced the 400.
By MY 1983, the 351W replaced the 351M, and the 6.9L Navistar diesel engine (and the 460 in HD 4x4 trucks) replaced the 400.
In any event, yes, as Gary said, by 1983, it should have had a Wheezer from the factory.
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Ok, as you can see, my rememberer ain't so good when it pertains to when the "well-loved" 335 series was kissed goodbye and the "Wheezer" became standard. And, now that I have a 351M and kissed my 351W goodbye I guess I'd better start loving the 335's. 
Having said all that, the instructions on the carb are pretty good as it was only 3 days ago.
Having said all that, the instructions on the carb are pretty good as it was only 3 days ago.
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Ok, as you can see, my rememberer ain't so good when it pertains to when the "well-loved" 335 series was kissed goodbye and the "Wheezer" became standard. And, now that I have a 351M and kissed my 351W goodbye I guess I'd better start loving the 335's.
Having said all that, the instructions on the carb are pretty good as it was only 3 days ago.
Having said all that, the instructions on the carb are pretty good as it was only 3 days ago.
Is there a thread that would detail how I can determine for sure which engine it is?
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From: North Dakota.
Ok, if the choke doesn't close when you press the gas once and the engine is cold then the choke is mis-adjusted. Just so happens I did this 3 days ago on my 2150: Loosen, but don't remove, the 3 screws holding the black round choke heating element on the passenger's side of the carb. With the throttle held open, turn the black piece counterclockwise just enough to get the choke to fully close, then snug the screws back down.
That should make it start, but it may now be too much choke unless the pull-off is functioning. If so, with the engine cold and the choke set reach behind the carb on the passenger's side to the vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke off slightly when the engine starts. Depress the plunger on it with your thumb and look to see if the choke opens about 1/8". If so, you should be good. If it opens too little or too much turn the screw on the back of the diaphragm to fix that.
That should make it start, but it may now be too much choke unless the pull-off is functioning. If so, with the engine cold and the choke set reach behind the carb on the passenger's side to the vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke off slightly when the engine starts. Depress the plunger on it with your thumb and look to see if the choke opens about 1/8". If so, you should be good. If it opens too little or too much turn the screw on the back of the diaphragm to fix that.
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But if you post your VIN, we can tell you what engine it came with....
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Pos. 1-3 - World Manufacturer Identifier - 2FT = Ford Motor Company of Canada, Ltd - Complete Vehicle
Pos. 4 - Brakes & GVWR Class - J = Class H, 9001 - 10,000 pounds
Pos. 5-7 - Line, Series & Body Type - W36 = F350 4WD Crew Cab pickup
Pos. 8 - Engine - F = 8 cyl gasoline-powered 302 cid 5.0L 2V carburetor
Pos. 9 - Check digit - O - (ignore)
Pos 10 - Model Year - D = 1983
Pos. 11 - Assembly Plant - C = Ontario Truck
Pos. 12-17 - Numerical Sequence of Assembly - A83064
If you post a picture of your Certification Label from the driver's side door jamb, I can tell you some other neat stuff about it, too.
Here is mine for reference, yours will look similar:
Pos. 4 - Brakes & GVWR Class - J = Class H, 9001 - 10,000 pounds
Pos. 5-7 - Line, Series & Body Type - W36 = F350 4WD Crew Cab pickup
Pos. 8 - Engine - F = 8 cyl gasoline-powered 302 cid 5.0L 2V carburetor
Pos. 9 - Check digit - O - (ignore)
Pos 10 - Model Year - D = 1983
Pos. 11 - Assembly Plant - C = Ontario Truck
Pos. 12-17 - Numerical Sequence of Assembly - A83064
If you post a picture of your Certification Label from the driver's side door jamb, I can tell you some other neat stuff about it, too.
Here is mine for reference, yours will look similar:
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Well, if it came out with a 302 and now has a 351M someone did a lot of work. For one thing, those engines take different transmissions. Or, maybe I should say a different bell housing on the transmission, as both can take the same type of tranny, like a C6 or an NP435, but the transmission's bolt pattern has to be different to match the engine.
So, before you go buy parts for an M make sure that is what you have, and I'm doubting it.
Oops, should have said a 302 is in the Windsor family and takes 5 bolts per valve cover like the 351W. But, it is about 9" across the intake manifold while the 351W is about 11", IIRC.
So, before you go buy parts for an M make sure that is what you have, and I'm doubting it.
Oops, should have said a 302 is in the Windsor family and takes 5 bolts per valve cover like the 351W. But, it is about 9" across the intake manifold while the 351W is about 11", IIRC.
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well, I will check that out. handy that the difference in the intake can be measured like that. since the truck came with a federal title, I guess I am surprised the truck was built in canada. also surprised that they would stick a 302 in a f350.
also will check the number of bolts on each valve cover. I haven't climbed under to see which transmission it is. Tomorrow will grab a pic of that label, ctubutis. thanks for the info.
also will check the number of bolts on each valve cover. I haven't climbed under to see which transmission it is. Tomorrow will grab a pic of that label, ctubutis. thanks for the info.